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COLUMBIA. 


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rw^ 


:h  n»x 


CRUISE 


OF   THE 


FRIGATE    COLUMBIA 


AROUND      THE      WORLD, 


UNDER   THE    COMMAND   OP 


COMMODORE  GEORGE  C.  READ, 


IN 


1838,  1839,  AND  1840. 


By  WILLIAM  MEACHAM  MURRELL, 

ONE     OF     THE     CREW. 


BOSTON: 

BENJAMIN    B.  MUSSEY. 

1840. 


Entered  according  to  act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  18403 

BY    WILLIAM    MEACHAM    MURRELL, 
in  the  clerk's  office  of  the  District  Court  of  Massachusetts. 


PREFACE. 


"  Nothing  extenuate,  nor  set  down 

Aught  in  malice.'' 

Shakspeare. 

The  author,  in  presuming  to  undertake 
the  following  work,  is  perfectly  aware  of 
the  various  difficulties  he  has  to  encoun- 
ter, and  by  which  he  is  surrounded.  He 
therefore  throws  himself  upon  the  kind 
indulgence  of  his  readers,  trusting  that 
this,  his  humble  attempt,  may  stand  the 
test  of  their  judgment. 

To  make  it  comprehensive  as  possible, 
and   at    the    same    time    entertaining,   he 


4  PREFACE. 

will  endeavor  to  describe  the  situations 
of  the  various  ports  touched  at  during  the 
cruise,  or  islands  visited,  with  the  customs 
and  manners  of  their  inhabitants. 

It  is  absolutely  necessary  for  him  to 
bespeak  the  kind  feeling  of  the  more 
learned  part  of  his  readers,  and  a  can- 
did perusal  of  this  journal,  as  it  is  the 
first  humble  production  of  one  unused  to 
literary  pursuits  or  finely  turned  expres- 
sions. 

He  therefore  begs  they  will  not  exam- 
ine it  with  too  critical  an  eye,  sincerely 
hoping  that  his  sole  object  may  succeed, 
—  that  of  contributing  to  the  amusement 
and  information  of  those  who  may  peruse 
it ;  for  even  remote  and  minute  events 
are  frequently  invested  with  an  interest 
that   is   highly   gratifying   to   that   curios- 


PREFACE.  5 

ity  of  which  the  human  mind  is  naturally 
possessed. 

"  Wandering  from  clime  to  clime,  I  observant  stray, 
To  note  their  manners  and  their  states  survey." 

TO  MY  SHIPMATES. 
According  to  your  request  I  have  had 
this  journal  printed.  You  all  know  what 
it  is,  —  a  plain  and  succinct  account  of 
our  cruise,  with  short  descriptions  of  the 
places  we  have  visited.  I  am  told  there 
may  be  some  who  will  carp  and  cavil  at 
my  little  work.  Well,  let  them.  You 
and  I  will  perhaps  be  far  away  on  the 
ocean,  so  that  we  shall  not  hear  it ;  but  to 
such  persons  I  quote  the  following  lines : 

"  Cease,  you  jabbering,  uncouth  railer ; 

List,  my  shipmates,  all  to  me ; 
Messmates,  hear  a  brother  sailor 

Tell  of  past  scenes  'twixt  you  and  me. 

1* 


PREFACE. 


Those   persons  on  shore,   who  purchase 

a  copy  of  it,  will  be  friendly  to  bine  jack- 
ets, and  of  course  they  won't  expect  it 
to  be  written  according  to  scholastic  rules, 
but  a  plain  sailor's  story,  told  in  a  sailor's 
style. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  —  Salutes  —  Family  Thoughts  —  Speak  a 
Bark — Melancholy  Accident  —  Madeira  —  Descrip- 
tion thereof— Sail  for  Rio — Another  Accident,   -     -  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Make  St.  Jago  —  Brief  account  thereof — Speak  a 
Brig — Cross  the  Line — Humorous  Sketch — Tropi- 
cal scene  at  Sea — Speak  another  Brig — Arrive  at 
Rio — Salutes  —  Account  of  Rio — Visits  —  Invalid 
Men  home  —  A  Death  —  Leave  Rio — Punishment 
at  Sea,     --------------    -23 

CHAPTER  III. 

A  Death — Funeral  at  Sea — Speak  a  Bark — Another 
Death — Island  of  Madagascar — Description  of — 
The  Eclipse — Swimming — Make  the  Land — Cru- 
elty— Arrival  at  Muscat, 37 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Another  Death — Arabia  —  Description  of— Customs, 
Manners,  &c. — Bedouins,  or  roving  Arabs — Ma- 
homet's   Tomb  — Muscat  — Account  of— Visit  of 


8 


CONTENTS. 


Capt.  Calforn— The  Imaim  visits  the  Ship,  his  re- 
ception, &c— Another  Death,  - 47 

CHAPTER  V. 

Leave  Muscat— Arrive  at  Bombay — Board  a  Brig — 
Account  of  Bombay — An  awkward  Affair — Hon- 
esty the  best  Policy — Description  of  the  Hindoos 
generally— The  Air,  Climate,  &c— The  late  Tip- 
poo  Saib — Visits— Another  Death— Bad  Provisions 
— Leave  Bombay  for  Goa— The  Sea-coast,  &c.  -    -  57 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Account  of  Goa — The  late  Inquisition — Leave  the 
Harbor — Ghaut  Mountains— Cape  Comorin — The 
Pearl  Fishery — Account  of  Operations — Make  Ce)-- 
lon — Anchor  at  Colombo — Description  of  Ceylon — 
The  Cinnamon  Tree — Talipot  Tree — Its  various 
uses — The  Cingalese — Arrivals— A  very  feeling  re- 
mark,       66 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Account  of  Columbo — Adam's  Peak  —  Descriptions 
of,  by  a  Traveller  —  Governor's  Visit — Unwelcome 
News — Murder  and  Piracy  on  the  Coast  of  Sumatra 
— Account  of  the  same, -81 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Feelings  of  the  Crew — Leave  Columbo — Speak  two 
Ships — Make  Sumatra — An  unseen  Enemy — Ori- 
gin of  Small-pox — Measures  adopted  for  prevention 
— Death — The  Shark — A  tit  bit — Come  to  anchor 
off  Annallaboo — Leave  again — Arrive  at  duallah 
Battoo— Poadam,  the  Malay  Chief— The  Rajah's 
Conduct— The  English  Brig, 91 


CONTENTS.  9 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Cannonade  Q,uallah  Battoo— Come  to  terms— Wound- 
ed Malay — Seize  several  Proas — Account  of  Su- 
matra—Religion, Customs,  &c— The  Cassia  Tree 
— Wild  Beasts — Leave  Quallah  Battoo— Anchor  at 
Muckie— The  tug  of  War— Cannonade  Muckie — 
Land  the  Crew— Destroy  the  Town— The  Jack  in 
the  Box — Lawful  plunder — Leave  Muckie  for  Soo- 
soo— Death  and  Burial,   -    - 103 

CHAPTER  X. 

Soliloquy  on  Honor — Seize  a  Proa— Description  of— 
Death — Comments— Leave  Soosoo — Poadam — Situ- 
ation and  Character — Another  Death — Penang: — 
Arrive  at— Account  of— Wounded  Moor— Sailor's 
Liberality — Malacca— Account  of— Singapore — Es- 
tablish a  Hospital— Description  of  Singapore— Chi- 
nese Junks,  &c. 117 

CHAPTER  XI. 
Washington's  Birth-Day — Missionaries— Divine  Wor- 
ship at  Sea— More  Deaths— On  the  Existence  of  a 
God— Proofs  of  the  same— A  Dying  Scene — Chi- 
nese Admiral's  Visit— In  a  Scrape  myself — The 
Ball — Leave  Singapore — More  Deaths — Arrival  at 
Macao— Intelligence— Stop  put  to  Trade  by  the 
Chinese, 131 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Description  of  Macao  —  Deaths  —  Leave  Macao  — 
Toonkoo  Bay— Account  of  Canton— Chinese  Cus- 
toms, &c— The  Bumboat—  Death  and  Epitaph,  -     14G 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

An  agreeable  Surprise— Loss  of  a  Friend— His  Char- 
acter, &c— A  sad  Accident— Man  killed— Fourth 


\0  CONTENTS. 

of  July— Leave  Toonkoo  Bay — Caught  in  a  Ty- 
phoon— Account  of  the  same — Our  Losses — Mis- 
chief clone — Sailors'  Opinion  of  the  Weather — A 
very  unpleasant  Prospect — A  Lee  Shore  —  Ship 
drifting — The  Storm  breaks — A  friendly  Opinion,     157 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Island  of  Formosa — Marines  and  Mariners — Muster 
the  Watch— Laughable  Mistake— Moonlight  Scene 
at  Sea — A  cruel  Scene — The  Man  overboard — 
Cross  the  Meridian— Change  the  Time— Arithme- 
tic in  Matrimony— Make  the  Sandwich  Islands — 
Afflicting  Scenes  of  Death  during  the  passage — 
Arrive  at  Oahu — Anchor  off  Honolulu,      -    -    -     169 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Salutes,  Visits,  &c. — The  Missionary— Account  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands — Description  of  Honolulu — Man- 
ners, Customs,  Dress,  &c.  of  the  Natives  —  The 
King's  Visit— A  short  Sketch  of  Nautical  Life,  with 
an  unfeeling  Transaction,    --- 183 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Moralizing— On  Men  and  Manners— More  Deaths — 
Disagreeable  Word  —  Cure  for  the  Scurvy — My 
humble  Opinion — Principal  Diet  of  the  Islanders — 
Manner  of  Cooking— John  Adams  leaky — Whale 
Ships— Opinion  of  a  Blubber  Hunter,    -    -     -     -     195 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Sail  from  Honolulu— A  False  Alarm— A  Death — 
Cross  the  Equinoctial  Line — Off  the  Marquesas — 
Arrive  at  Otaheitc — Description  of  the  same— In- 
habitants— Customs,  Dress,  Manners,  &c. — A  Lib- 
erty Scrape — Dreams  not  always  realized,  -    -    -    204 


OFFICERS 


ATTACHED  TO   THE 


U.   S.   FRIGATE   COLUMBIA. 


GEORGE  C.  READ,  Commodore. 

George  A.  Magruder,  1st  Lieutenant. 

John  W.  Turk,  2d  Lieutenant. 

J.  S.  Palmer,  3d  Lieutenant. 

Joseph  W.  Revere,  4th  Lieutenant. 

A.  M.  Pennock,  Acting  Lieutenant. 

D.  D.  Baker,  Lieutenant  of  Marines. 

G.  F.  Macauley,  Purser. 

J.  W.  Taylor,  Chaplain. 

John  Haslett,  Surgeon. 

Edward  Jenkins,  Acting  Sailing  Master. 

Edward  VV.  Cole,  } 

Richard  J.  Harrison,    $  AssH  SurSeons- 

Hiram  Belcher,  Prof,  of  Mathematics. 

John  Clar,  Commodore^s  Clerk. 


12  OFFICERS. 

Midshipnieii. 

D.  Ross  Crawford,  ) 

t  *,  ri  c  Past  Midshi  inaen. 

James  McCormick,    )  * 

R.  M.  Barney,  Charles  Sinclair, 

John  L.  Toomer,  Wm.  B.  Fitzgerald, 

Thomas  L.  Kinlock,  Charles  Fauntleroy, 

Charles  R.  Smith,  J.  Dorsey  Read, 

James  M.  Duncan,  William  A.  Henry. 

William  M.  Green, 

Forward    Officers. 

John  Mills,  Boatswain. 
John  Martin,  Gunner. 
Benjamin  Crow,  Sailmaker. 
Thomas  Johnson,  Carpenter. 
Manuel  de  Morcia,  Pursers  Steward. 


CRUISE 


OF   THE 


COLUMBIA 


CHAPTER  I. 

Adieu  !  my  native  land,  adieu  ! 
The  vessel  spreads  her  flowing  sails  ; 
Perhaps  I  never  more  may  view 
Your  fertile  fields,  your  flowery  dales* 

Scotch   Song. 

Departure— Salutes — Family  Thoughts — Speak  a  Bark- 
Melancholy  Accident — Madeira — Description  thereof 
— Sail  for  Bio — Another  Accident. 

Our  frigate  bein^  manned,  and  bavins;  com- 
pleted  our  necessary  arrangements,  the  day  of 
our  departure  at  length  arrived,  and  we  left 
the  land  of  our  forefathers  to  traverse  the  path- 
less main  and  seek  foreign  climes. 

We  got  under  way  from  Hampton  Roads  on 

the  Gth  May,  1838,  where  we  had  been  laying 

for  some  days  previous,  our   consort,  the  John 

Adams,  commanded  by  Capt.  Thomas  Wyman, 

2 


14  FAMILY    TIIOUGnTS. 

in  company,  with  a  fine  breeze  from  the  north- 
ward and  westward,  bound  to  the  island  of 
Madeira,  our  first  destined  port. 

On  the  same  afternoon  the  pilot,  having 
completed  his  duties,  left  us,  and  went  away 
loaded  with  letters  and  commissions  of  various 
kinds  to  the  respective  relatives  and  friends  of 
the  crew. 

A  short  time  after  his  departure,  the  John 
Adams  saluted  the  flag  of  our  commodore, 
according  to  the  etiquette  of  the  naval  ser- 
vice, which  was  returned  by  us.  We  con- 
tinued on  our  course,  with  favorable  breezes 
and  pleasant  weather,  our  time  actively  em- 
ployed in  the  various  duties  allotted  us,  with  no 
other  care  upon  our  minds  than  the  thoughts  of 
those  dear  relatives  and  friends  whom  we  had 
so  recently  left,  perhaps  never  more  to  behold. 
Where  is  the  man  so  cold-hearted  that  does  not 
love  his  country  ?  It  is  not  the  earth,  the 
mere  insensate  clod,  that  forms  the  bond;  it  is  . 
the  associations  of  our  youth,  our  manhood, 
and  even  our  ancestry,  which  bind  us  with 
such  intensity.  Never  may  those  feelings  be 
eradicated  from  the  hufnan  heart ;  still  dear  to 
us  be  the  home,  however  bleak,  where  first  we 
lifted  up  our  eyes  to  heaven,  and  our  young 
lips  were  taught  to  lisp  the  name  of  God ;  still 


SPEAK    A    BARK.  15 

dear  be  the  sunny  vale,  the  barren  heath,  or 
shrubless  mountain,  where  we  wandered  in  our 
youth ;  and  dear  be  the  solitary  aisle  or  the 
small  desolated  church-yard,  where  lie  the 
earthlv  relics  of  our  ancestors,  who  lived  and 
died  in  the  same  valleys  a  hundred  years  ago. 
I  could  but  reflect  occasionally  on  the  length 
of  time  which  had  to  pass  away  ere  I  should 
again  be  blessed  with  the  cheering  smiles  or 
affectionate  caresses  of  those  I  had  left  behind  ; 
but  hope,  which  ever  encourages  the  soul  of 
man  in  the  hour  of  adversity,  cheered  me  with 
the  pleasurable  feelings  of  that  day  once  more 
returning,  however  distant  the  period  might  be. 

On  the  18th  inst.  we  descried  a  sail,  which 
we  spoke.  It  proved  to  be  the  American  bark 
John  A.  Robb,  then  sixteen  days  out  from 
Havre  de  Grace,  and  bound  to  Baltimore.  A 
boat  was  despatched  for  the  purpose  of  gaining 
any  recent  news.  On  the  return  of  the  boat, 
after  wishing  them  a  pleasant  passage,  we 
parted  company,  and  each  ship  pursued  her 
course. 

At  times,  when  the  breezes  freshened,  I 
could  but  take  particular  notice  of  the  stormy 
petrel,  or  Mother  Carey's  chickens,  as  they 
are  technically  called  by  the  weather-beaten 
mariner,   scudding  along  with  every  stitch  of 


16  MELANCHOLY    ACCIDENT. 

their  canvass  set,  at  the  rate  of  a  nine-knot 
breeze ;  or,  when  the  weather  was  fine,  to 
watch  the  silvery  flying-fish,  in  small  shoals, 
winging  their  short  and  sparkling  flight  by  the 
ship.  Several  of  the  latter  were  found  entan- 
gled among  the  rigging.  These  to  me  were  al- 
ways pleasing  contemplations,  and  relieved  the 
dull  monotony  of  sea  life. 

Nothing  of  any  interest  occurred  until  the 
24th  inst.  when  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose 
one  of  the  crew  by  a  lamentable  accident. 
John  Kemp,  seaman,  unfortunately  fell  from 
the  maintop-gallant  yard,  while  assisting  to 
furl  the  sail,  and  was  instantaneously  killed  ; 
not  a  breath  or  sigh  escaping  his  lips,  at  thus 
being  launched  into  eternity  and  the  presence 
of  his  Maker.  The  horror  and  consternation 
depicted  on  the  countenances  of  those  around 
who  had  been  observers  of  this  unlooked-for 
calamity,  can  be  much  better  imagined  than 
described. 

The  unfortunate  deceased  was  a  promising 
younjj  man,  about  24  years  of  an;e,  who,  from 
the  affability  of  his  disposition,  was  held  high  in 
the  estimation  of  his  shipmates,  and  had  also 
gained  the  good-will  of  his  officers  by  his  cheer- 
ful alacrity  when  called  to  any  duty.  It  was 
but  a  few  moments  before  the  accident  took 


MADEIRA.  17 

place  which  cut  him  short  in  his  youthful  ca- 
reer, that  he  was  cajoling  with  his  shipmates, 
and  smiling  at  the  jokes  which  were  passing 
around, — mirth  soon  to  be  changed  to  melan- 
choly and  gloom.  He  was  talking  of  his  home 
and  distant  friends.  Little  did  he  imagine 
that  home  to  him  was  to  be  as  a  blank  space 
on  the  earth,  and  all  ties  of  kindred  were  so 
soon  to  be  cut  asunder  till  time  shall  be  no 
more.  While  he  was  giving  himself  away  to 
these  pleasing  and  natural  reflections,  the  pale 
king  of  terrors,  with  his  malignant  dart,  had 
poised  his  deadly  weapon  to  strike  his  victim 
and  convey  him  to  that  bourne  from  whence  no 
traveller  returns. 

On  the  following  morning  the  boatswain  and 
his  mates,  with  a  cheerless  and  dreary  sound 
of  voice,  summoned  all  hands  to  "  bury  the 
dead."  The  mournful  utterance  of  the  order 
coincided  strongly  with  the  cause  it  arose  from. 
His  remains  were  conveyed  to  the  lee  gang- 
way by  his  messmates,  and  launched  into  the 
abyss  of  the  deep,  after  the  usual  service  had 
been  performed  over  them  by  the  reverend 
chaplain. 

On  the  following  day  we  made  the  island  of 
Madeira,  at  a  view  which  was  extremely  pic- 
turesque and  romantic  ;  but  it  not  being  deemed 
2* 


18  DESCRIPTION    OF    MADEIRA. 

prudent  to  run  for  tlic  anchorage  in  Fun- 
clial  Roads,  as  the  day  was  then  on  the  de- 
cline, we  laid  the  ship  oft"  during  the  night ;  and, 
making  sail  at  daybreak,  we  stood  in  and  an- 
chored. The  John  Adams  arrived  shortly  af- 
terwards, and  followed  our  example. 

After  furling  the  sails  and  squaring"  the 
yards,  hauling  the  running  rigging  taut,  and 
flemishing  the  same  down  on  the  deck  with 
that  neatness  and  precision  which  is  ever  cus- 
tomary in  ships  of  this  description,  the  Portu- 
guese colors  were  hoisted  at  the  fore,  and  a 
salute  fired,  which  was  returned  by  the  forts 
ashore. 

This  island  is  situated  in  the  Atlantic  ocean, 
in  32P  34'  north  latitude,  and  from  18°  30'  to 
19°  30'  west  longitude.  It  is  composed  of  one 
continual  hill  of  a  considerable  height,  extend- 
ing from  east  to  west,  the  declivity  of  which  on 
the  south  side  is  cultivated,  and  interspersed 
with  vineyards  ;  and  in  the  midst  of  this  slope 
the  merchants  have  fixed  their  countrv  seats, 
which  form  a  very  agreeable  prospect. 

There  is  but  one  considerable  town  in  the 
whole  island,  off  which  our  ships  came  to  an 
anchor,  named  Funchal,  seated  on  the  south 
part  of  the  island,  at  the  bottom  of  a  large  bay. 
Towards  the  sea  it  is  defended  by  a  high  wall, 


DESCRIPTION    OF    MADEIRA.  19 

with  a  battery  of  cannon,  and  is  the  only  place 
where  it  is  possible  for  a  boat  to  land  ;  and 
even  here  the  beach  is  covered  with  large 
stones,  and  a  violent  surf  continually  beats  up- 
on it. 

This  town  is  situated  on  the  gentle  ascent  of 
the  first  hills,  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre. 
The  houses  are  built  of  freestone  or  brick,  but 
they  are  dark,  and  only  a  few  of  the  best,  be- 
longing to  the  English  merchants  or  the  princi- 
pal inhabitants,  are  provided  with  glass  win- 
dows ;  all  the  others  having  a  kind  of  lattice- 
work in  their  stead,  which  hang  upon  hinges, 
and  maybe  lifted  up  occasionally. 

The  air  in  general  on  the  island  is  mild  and 
salubrious,  and  is  strongly  recommended  by 
the  faculty  to  the  invalid  for  restoration  of 
health,  when  change  of  clime  is  deemed  neces- 
sary ;  so  that  of  late  years  it  has  been  a  place 
of  great  resort  by  those  who  have  been  advised 
to  seek  it  for  that  purpose. 

Flowers  nursed  in  the  Enohsh  greenhouses 
grow  wild  here  in  the  fields,  and  the  hedges 
are  mostly  formed  of  the  rose,  jasmine,  myrtle, 
and  honeysuckle  ;  while  the  larkspur,  fleur-de- 
lis,  and  lupin  spring  up  spontaneously  in  the 
fields.  There  are  very  few  reptiles  to  be  seen 
on  the  island,  the  lizard  beiug  the  most  com- 


20  ANOTHER   ACCIDENT. 

mon.  Its  wine,  which  derives  its  name  from 
the  island,  is  in  the  highest  estimation,  espe- 
cially such  as  has  been  a  voyage  to  the  East 
or  West  Indies,  as  it  matures  best  in  the  hottest 
climates. 

The  fruits,  which  are  most  delicious,  are 
oranges,  lemons,  and  pomegranates  :  the  pro- 
ducts are  corn,  honey,  and  wax.  The  island 
abounds  also  with  boars  aud  other  wild  beasts, 
and  with  all  sorts  of  fowls,  besides  numerous 
groves  of  cedar  trees,  and  those  that  yield 
mastic  and  other  gums. 

During  our  stay  in  this  port  we  were  honor- 
ed by  a  visit  from  the  Portuguese  viceroy,  or 
civil  governor  of  the  island,  who  was  received 
with  a  salute,  and  shown  through  the  ship.  He 
also  visited  our  consort,  the  John  Adams, 
where  he  met  with  a  similar  reception. 

June  3d,  we  once  more  got  under  way, 
with  our  consort,  and  proceeded  to  sea,  bound 
to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  our  next  destined  port,  fa- 
vored with  fine  favorable  breezes  and  pleasant 
weather. 

I  have  to  note  an  accident  which  took  place 
a  few  days  after  we  had  left  the  beautiful  island 
of  Madeira,  which  might  have  been  attended 
with  more  serious  consequences  as  to  the  re- 
sult. 


LUCKY    BAG.  21 

It  being*  a  standing  rule  of  the  ship  to  exer- 
cise the  crew  at  the  great  guns,  providing  more 
emergent  duties  did  not  intervene  to  prevent 
the  same,  at  least  once  a  week,  during  the  time 
on  this  particular  day  they  were  undergoing 
and  performing  the  same,  the  captain  of  gun 
No.  7  (for  each  gun  has  its  captain)  was  se- 
verely wounded  by  the  sudden  explosion  of  a 
powder-horn  which  was  slung  around  his  neck, 
and  with  which  he  was  in  the  act  of  priming 
his  gun,  at  the  same  time  slightly  wounding 
several  others  who  were  stationed  at  the  same 
gun  with  him.  The  wounded  persons  were 
immediately  placed  under  the  charge  of  the 
doctor  and  assistants,  who  found  it  necessary 
to  deprive  the  captain  of  one  of  his  fingers  by 
amputation.  The  wounds  of  the  others  not 
being  so  severe,  they  underwent  the  usual  treat- 
ment, by  which  they  were  enabled,  in  the  course 
of  a  few  days,  to  resume  their  duties,  grateful 
the  accident  was  no  worse,  and  exclaiming, 
with  the  tnie  spirit  of  patriotism,  "  Next  time 
give  me  scars  of  a  more  honorable  nature." 

I  was  this  day  also  witness  to  a  curious 
scene.  The  master's  mate  of  each  deck  goes 
round  collecting  all  stray  clothes,  which  are 
delivered  to  the  master-at-arms,  who  has  in  his 
department  a   large   bag    called   the    "lucky 


22  LUCKY    BAG. 

bag:  "  the  name  is  not  so  inappropriate,  for  it 
is  generally  so  lucky  as  to  be  well  filled.  At 
the  beginning  of  the  month,  or  earlier,  as  the 
occasion  may  suit,  it  is  brought  up  to  the  main- 
mast (that  being  the  place  appropriated  for  a 
settlement  of  accounts,  or  paying  all  back  ra- 
tions.) and  the  owners,  if  their  names  are  on 
them,  get  them  again,  with  a  few  lashes  for 
their  carelessness  in  leaving  them  about  the 
decks. 


CHAPTER  II. 

The  man  doomed  to  sail,  with  the  blast  of  the  gale, 

O'er  billows  Atlantic  to  steer, 

As  he  bends  o'er  the  wave  which  may  soon  be  his  grave, 

The  green  sparkles  bright  with  the  tear. 

Byron. 

Make  St.  Jago — Brief  account  thereof— Speak  a  Brig — 
Cross  the  Line — Humorous  Sketch — Tropical  scene  at 
Sea — Speak  another  Brig — Arrive  at  Rio — Salutes — 
Account  of  Rio — Visits — Invalid  Men — Home — A 
Death — Leave  Rio — Punishment  at  Sea. 

On  the  12th  June  we  discovered  land  on  the 
larboard  bow,  which  proved  to  be  St.  Jago,  one 
of  the  Cope  de  Verd  islands,  and  at  the  same 
time  one  of  the  most  fertile  of  them. 

These  islands  were  first  discovered  in  the 
year  14G0,  by  the  Portuguese,  and  are  about 
twenty  in  number ;  but  some  of  them  being 
only  barren,  uninhabitable  rocks,  are  scarcely 
worth  notice.  They  are  inhabited  by  Europe- 
ans, or,  generally  speaking,  Europeans  and  ne- 
groes. 

The  island  of  St.  Jago  is  the  residence  of 
the  Portuguese  viceroy,  and  is  about  150  miles 


24  CROSS   THE   LINE. 

in  circumference ;  yet  it  is  mountainous,  and 
has  much  barren  land  in  it.  The  plant  which 
grows  here,  of  the  most  consequence  to  the  na- 
tives, is  the  madder,  which  is  found  in  abun- 
dance among  the  cliffs  ;  but  as  we  did  not  call 
in  here,  it  would  be  an  impossibility  for  me  to 
give  any  further  description  of  it. 

On  the  following  morning  we  came  up  with 
and  spoke  a  Genoese  brig,  but  they  being  as 
much  unacquainted  with  our  language  as  we 
were  with  theirs,  we  could  not  derive  any  in- 
formation from  whence  she  came  or  to  what 
port  bound ;  so  we  pursued  our  course,  the 
brig  adopting  the  same  plan. 

On  the  27th  June  we  crossed  the  equinoctial 
line  ;  and  here  my  readers  must  excuse  me  in 
making  a  short  digression  from  the  present 
subject,  to  give  an  account  of  the  ceremony  of 
shaving,  as  usually  adopted  at  this  particular 
time,  although  it  was  not  performed  on  board 
the  frigate  ;  which  was  as  much  regret  and  dis- 
appointment to  many  of  our  crew  as  it  was  of 
pleasure  to  those  novices  who  had  never  cross- 
ed the  boundaries  of  JNeptune's  dominions  be- 
fore, and  who  consequently  escaped  those 
ceremonies  which  I  was  obliged  to  undergo 
myself  some  years  before,  when  on  a  voyage 
to  the  Mauritius,  and  an  account  of  which  I 
here  subjoin  for  the  amusement  of  my  readers. 


HUMOROUS    SKETCH.  25 

On  the  evening  previous  to  the  day  on  which 
we  crossed  the  line,  our  vessel  was  calmly 
floating  on  the  unruffled  bosom  of  the  deep, 
and  I  sitting  on  some  spare  spars,  gazing 
thousfhtfullv  on  the  setting;;  sun.  I  was  sud- 
denly  started  from  my  meditations  hy  the  cry 
of  "  a  sail  ahead, — halloo — Neptune — Neptune 
ahoy,"  and  on  proceeding  to  the  spot  from 
whence  the  hailing  took  place,  and  looking  in 
a  certain  direction,  I  perceived  a  large  tar  bar- 
rel flaming  on  the  ocean,  which  had  been  pur- 
posely set  on  fire  and  ejected  into  the  sea,  and 
then  gliding  past  our  vessel. 

Oh  making  inquiries  respecting  this  curious 
scene,  I  was  given  to  understand  it  was  the 
royal  barge  of  the  venerable  watery  god,  who 
had  announced  his  intention  of  cominjr  on 
board  next  morning  to  superintend  the  shaving 
of  such  of  his  children  as  had  not  previously 
entered  into  the  southern  part  of  his  domin- 
ions. 

Next  morning,  accordingly  this  august  per- 
sonage made  his  appearance  on  board  about 
half  past  nine,  A.  M.  His  dress  consisted  of  a 
buffalo's  hide,  with  such  other  varieties  as 
could  be  procured  on  board,  added  to  an  iron- 
crowned,  hoary-bearded  mask,  which  render- 
ed him  a  very  grotesque  figure.  With  him 
3 


26  HUMOROUS    SKETCH. 

came  a  gigantic,  white-robed  mariner,  some- 
thing resembling  an  old  weather-beaten  woman, 
intending  to  represent  his  cara  sposa,  Amphi- 
trite,  followed  by  several  others,  personating 
attendants  and  constables,  all  bearing  their 
rods  of  office,  and  decorated  in  a  ludicrous 
and  singular  manner.  Next  followed  in  the 
train  the  important  barber  and  his  attendants. 
After  parading  round  the  decks  with  all  due 
ceremony,  the  procession  halted  opposite  the 
cabin  door,  where  his  godship  was  welcomed 
by  the  captain  and  his  officers,  and  accepted 
the  offer  of  a  glass  of  spirits ;  nor  had  his  fair 
spouse  any  hesitation  in  swallowing  a  potent 
draught  of  the  inspiring  nectar,  and  that  too 
without  making  wry  faces.  When  the  barber, 
who  did  not  fear  to  exhibit  his  huge  razor,  and 
several  others  had  paid  their  devotions  at  the 
shrine  of  Bacchus,  they  all  proceeded  to  the 
lee  waist,  where  was  prepared  a  tarred  topsail, 
supported  at  the  four  corners  by  corresponding 
stanchions  and  filled  to  the  brim  with  the  salt 
water  of  the  tropical  ocean,  a  covered  throne 
for  Neptune  and  his  exquisite  consort,  a  scaf- 
folding for  the  barber  and  his  suite,  and  a  nar- 
row plank  across  the  reservoir,  on  which  those 
unenviable  individuals  were  to  be  seated  who 
were  destined  to  undergo  the  ceremony  of 
shaving,  of  whom  I  was  one. 


HUMOROUS    SKETCH.  27 

At  this  moment  the  cries  of  "  Bring  forth  my 
children,"  "  bring  forth  my  sons,"  indicated  to 
the  anxious  beings  below  that  all  was  in  readi- 
ness  to  commence  the  business  of  the  day  ;  and 
immediately  several  of  these  horrible-looking 
constables  came  to  lead  me,  blindfolded,  and 
"with  no  very  quick  step  on  my  part,  to  the 
place  of  execution.  No  sooner  had  I  gained 
the  summit  of  the  companion  ladder  than  a  de- 
luge of  salt  water  from  innumerable  buckets 
was  unceremoniously  discharged  into  my  face. 
In  this  state,  panting  and  almost  breathless,  I 
rushed  forwards  with  much  exertion,  dra^o-ino- 
these  uncouth  myrmidons  along  with  me,  till  I 
came  to  the  foot  of  the  ladder,  which  led  to  the 
plank  crossing  the  cistern.  This  I  ascended 
with  some  difficulty,  amidst  the  cheering  of  the 
merciless  sailors,  and  took  my  seat  on  the  tot- 
tering plank  and  awaited  in  anxious  expecta- 
tion the  dreadful  result  of  all  this  ceremony. 

I  had  not  sat  long  in  this  position  ere  a 
rough  brush,  every  hair  of  which  seemed  to  be 
formed  of  a  porcupine's  quill,  saluted  my  chin, 
then  a  sharp  toothed  saw,  intended  to  repre- 
sent a  razor,  a  tar-brush  well  soaked  in  tar  was 
drawn  over  my  hair,  by  way  of  Macassor  oil 
or  sweet  scented  pomatum  ;  the  frail  plank  on 
which  I  was   seated  was  then  drawn  from  un- 


28  TROPICAL    SCENE   AT    SEA. 

cler  me,  and  I  was  plunged  into  the  abyss  be- 
low. I  rushed  up  the  side  of  the  cistern,  al- 
most blind  and  distracted  with  pain  arising* 
from  the  tar  rushing  into  my  eyes,  made  a  sud- 
den rush,  capsizing  her  most  sacred  majesty 
Amphitrite  in  my  exit,  over  into  a  cask  of 
slush  or  grease,  which  had  been  placed  near  to 
answer  the  purpose  of  lather,  and  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  making  my  escape. 

Notwithstanding  all  this  roughing  I  contriv- 
ed to  preserve  my  good  humor,  and  when  I 
had  recovered  myself  a  little,  I  was  amongst 
the  first  to  salute  my  hapless  shipmates  who 
next  made  their  appearance.  That  evening 
was  employed  in  draining  the  goblet  and  sing- 
ing the  song. 

In  these  latitudes  the  sun  rises  from  the 
ocean  in  great  splendor,  and  gilds  the  clouds 
accumulated  in  the  horizon  ;  which,  in  grand 
and  various  groups,  seem  to  present  to  the  eye 
of  the  spectator  continents  with  high  mountains 
and  valleys,  with  volcanoes  and  seas,  mytholo-- 
gical  and  other  strange  creations  of  fancy~ 
The  lamp  of  day  gradually  mounts  in  the 
transparent  blue  sky,  the  damp,  gray  fogs  sub-: 
side,  the  sea  is  calm,  or  gently  rises  and  falls 
with  a  surface  smooth  as  a  mirror,  in  a  regular 
motion. 


TROPIGAL    SCENE    AT    SEA.  29 

At  noon,  a  pale,  faintly  shining  cloud  rises, 
the  herald  of  a  sudden  tempest,  which  at  once 
disturbs  the  tranquillity  of  the  sea.  Thunder 
and  lightning  seem  as  if  they  would  split  our 
planet ;  but  a  heavy  rain  pouring  down  in  the 
midst  of  squalls,  puts  an  end  to  the  raging  of 
the  elements,  and  several  semicircular  rain- 
bows, extended  over  the  ocean  like  gay  trium- 
phal arches,  and  multiplied  in  the  wrinkled 
surface  of  the  water,  announce  the  termination 
of  this  great  natural  phenomenon. 

As  soon  as  the  air  and  sea  have  recovered 
their  equilibrium,  the  sky  show's  again  its  trans- 
parent azure,  swarms  of  flying-fish  leap  sport- 
ingly  over  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  the  ma- 
ny-colored natives  of  the  ocean,  among  which 
is  the  shark  and  its  two  inseparable  compan- 
ions, come  up  from  the  bottom  of  the  deep, 
which  is  transparent  to  the  depth  of  a  hundred 
fathoms. 

As  the  sun  gradually  sinks  in  the  clouded 
horizon,  sea  and  sky  assume  a  new  dress, 
which  is  beyond  description  sublime  and  mag- 
nificent ;  the  most  brilliant  red,  yellow  and  vio- 
let in  infinite  shades  and  contrast  are  poured 
out  in  profusion  o'er  the  azure  of  the  firma- 
ment, and  reflected  in  still  greater  variety  from 
the  surface  of  the  water. 
3* 


30  ARRIVE    AT    RIO. 

The  day  departs  amidst  continual  lightnings 
in  the  dusky  horizon,  while  the  moon  in  silent 
majesty  rises  from  the  unbounded  ocean  into 
the  cloudless  upper  regions.  Variable  winds 
cool  the  atmosphere,  numerous  falling  stars, 
coming  particularly  from  the-,  south,  shed  a 
maoic  light  ;  the  dark  blue  firmament- reflected 
with  the  constellations  on  the  untroubled  bosom 
of  the  water,  represent  the  image  of  the  whole 
starry  hemisphere,  and  the  ocean,  agitated 
even  by  the  faintest  breeze  of  the  night,  is 
changed  into  a  sea  of  uneven  fires.  -      - 

On  the  8th  July  we  came  up  with  and  spoke 
a  Portuguese  brio-  named  the  Bastament-o,  out 
27  days  from  Monte  Video,  and  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  same  day,  being  in  one  of  my  usual 
reflective  moods,  my  thoughts  wandering  to  the 
scenes  of  my  earlier  years,  1  was  suddenly 
aroused  from  my  revery  by  a  voice  from  aloft^ 
which  would  have  done  credit  to  the  lungs  of  a 
stentor,  exclaiming,  "Land  ho!"  "  Where 
away  ?  "  was  immediately  asked  by  the  officer 
of  the  watch  ;  and  the  desired  information  be- 
ing received,  it  was  found  to  be  the  coast  of 
Brazils 

On  the  following  morn  we  descried  Cape 
Frio  lighthouse,  bearing  per  compass  W.  J  N. 
Every  necessary  preparation  was  then  made  for 


ACCOUNT    OF    RIO.  31 

going  into  port,  and  on  the  10th  hist,  we  came 
to  an  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Rio  cle  Janeiro, 
with  our  consort,  the  John  Adams,  after  a  pleas- 
ant passage  of  five  weeks  from  Madeira. 

We  found  the  harbor  full  of  shipping,  in- 
cluding several  men  of  war.  Amongst  the  lat- 
ter  was  the  U.  S.  ship  Fairfield,  commanded 
by  Capt.  Mayo,  who  fired  a  salute,  which  was 
returned  by  us  ;  we  at  the  same  time  saluting 
the  Brazilian  flag,  as  also  the  British  and 
French  admiral,  whose  respective  ships  were 
lying  in  the  harbor,  and  who  during  our  stay 
in  this  port  visited  our  ship. 

The  town  of  Rio,  or  St.  Sebastian,  is  a  rich 
and  populous  city.  It  is  situated  in  42°  44' 
west  longitude,  and  22°  54'  south  latitude,  :;It 
stands  on  the  west  side  of  the  harbor,  and  Xh§ 
population  is  estimated  by  intelligent  travellers 
at  150,000  ;  but  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  its 
real  number.  It  is  large  and  well  built,  and 
about  three  miles  in  circumference.  The  houses 
in  general  are  of  stone,  two  stories  high,  and 
each  of  them  have,  after  the  manner  of  the 
Portuguese,  a  little  balcony  before  its  windows, 
and  a  lattice  of  wood  before  the  balcony. 

The  streets  are  straight  and  of  a  convenient 
breadth,  intersecting  each  other  at  risdit  angles. 
It  stands,   however,   upon  low  ground,  which 


32  visits. 

formerly  was  swampy,  and  is  surrounded  by 
hills  of  vast  height,  which  exclude  the  benefit 
of  the  refreshing  sea  and  land  breezes  ;  so  that 
it  is  of  course  exceedingly  hot  and  unhealthy 
in  the  summer  time. 

The  common  produce  of  the  country?  and  of 
which  it  has  an  extensive  trade,  is  cotton,  cof- 
fee, sugar,  rice  and  tobacco.  There  is  also 
annually  exported  from  hence  gold  and  silver, 
in  addition  to  many  precious  stones.  Vines 
also  grow  in  great  perfection,  but  are  not  suf- 
fered to  be  pressed  for  wine. 

The  harbor  is  well  adapted  for  those  ships 
to  put  in  that  may  stand  in  need  of  supplies. 

It  is  under  the  Brazilian  government,  and  in 
the  year  1S0S  was  the  regal  seat  of  Don  Pedro  ; 
but  he  shortly  afterwards  abdicated  in  favor  of 
his  son,  then  a  minor,  and  returned  to  Europe. 

We  were  occasionally  visited  by  the  charge 
d'affaires  of  different  nations,  and  they  were 
ever  received  with  those  polite  attentions  which 
are  usually  shown  in  the  naval  service  towards 
the  delegates  of  another  nation. 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival  the  French  ad- 
miral's ship  got  under  way,  and  proceeded  to 
sea.  With  our  usual  promptitude  we  despatch- 
ed the  boats,  to  afford  any  assistance  that  might 
be  required  in  aiding  them  to  turn  out  of  the 
harbor. 


A    DEATH LEAVE    EIO.  33 

Several  of  our  crew  were  sent  from  the  frig- 
ate to  the  U.  S.  ship  Fairfield,  for  a  temporary 
removal,  until  sent  home  in  a  merchant  ship, 
as  invalids,  it  being  deemed  the  most  advisable, 
as  they  had  been  suffering  from  sickness  for 
some  time,  and  their  remaining;  strength  quite 
inadequate  to  undergo  the  arduous  duties  at- 
tendant on  a  mariner's  life,  in  addition  to  the 
various  changes  of  climate  their  shattered 
frames  would  be  absolutely  compelled  to  visit 
during  the  cruise. 

On  the  2?th  we  lost  one  of  the  crew,  by  the 
death  of  John  Davis,  seaman,  who  had  been 
shipped  but  a  few  days  previously,  and  who 
died  of  delirium  tremens,  the  usual  finale  of  ex- 
cessive inebriety. 

On  the  same  day  our  consort  —  the  John 
Adams  —  having  received  her  orders  to  that 
effect,  got  under  way,  and  proceeded  to  sea, 
bound  to  Zanguebar,  on  the  coast  of  Africa; 
and  on  the  29th  we  followed  her,  bound  to  Mus- 
cat, —  the  British  flag  ship  and  United  States' 
ship  Fairfield  kindly  se ruling  their  boats  to 
afford  us  any  assistance  we  might  require  in 
leaving  the  harbor,  which,  however,  we  ef- 
fected without  any  difficulty.  A  light,  favora- 
ble breeze  springing  up,  the  necessary  sail  was 
soon  made,  the  ship  skimming  lightly  along  on 


34  PUNISHMENT   AT    SEA. 

the  smooth-faced  surface  of  the  deep,  and  in 
the  course  of  a  short  time  the  great  and  com- 
mercial city  of  Rio  was  scarcely  perceptible, 
and  appeared  but  as  a  dim  speck  in  the  dis- 
tance. 

This  morning,  at  10,  A.  M.  all  hands  were 
called  to  witness  punishment ;  and,  however 
irksome  or  unpleasant  a  scene  of  this  descrip- 
tion is,  to  the  sensitive  mind,  every  order  in 
the  naval  service  must  be  implicitly  obeyed. 

On  proceeding  to  the  spar-deck,  I  discov- 
ered the  gratings  were  rigged,  These  articles 
are  lashed  securely  down  to  the  deck,  to  which 
the  feet  of  the  delinquent  are  made  fast,  while 
his  hands  are  firmly  secured  to  the  hammock 
netting.  The  quarter-masters  were  standing 
near  the  spot  of  punishment,  ready  to  seize  up 
or  fasten  the  culprit.  The  boatswain  and  his 
mates,  with  a  small  bag,  containing  those  instru- 
ments of  torture  called  the  cats,  were  also  pres- 
ent. All  the  officers  were  on  the  quarter-deck 
with  their  side-arms;  and  the  marines  drawn 
out,  headed  by  their  commanding  officer.  The 
culprits  stood  at  the  mainmast,  in  their  best  bib 
and  tucker,  in  charge  of  the  master-at-arms,  and 
the  corporal  of  the  marine  guard,  who  hap- 
pended  to  be  on  duty.  The  commodore,  on 
being  informed  that  all  was  in  readiness,  now 


PUNISHMENT   AT    SEA.  35 

approached  the  unfortunate  delinquents  with 
a  stern  brow  and  ri<nd  countenance,  which 
seemed  to  have  shut  out  all  compassion.  After 
naming  their  offences  against  the  rules,  and 
discipline  of  the  service,  they  were  punished 
with  twelve  lashes  each.  I  do  not  wish  to 
speak  against  this  discipline,  as  I  am  led  to 
believe  these  persons  got  themselves  into  the 
scrape  for  which  they  suffered.  Two  of  them 
were  punished  for  thieving,  which  every  one 
will  allow  deserved  chastisement.  How  differ- 
ent the  case  of  a  poor  marine,  whose  back  was 
absolutely  cut  to  pieces,  while  our  ship  was 
laying  at  Norfolk,  for  an  offence  of  the  most 
trivial  nature  !  The  commodore  on  this  occa- 
sion was  absent  from  the  ship,  and  the  unfor- 
tunate marine  was  reported  to  his  commanding 
officer,  who,  contrary  to  the  rules  of  the  ser- 
vice, ordered  the  poor  fellow  to  strip,  and,  not 
satisfied  with  using  the  cats,  the  usual  instru- 
ment of  punishment,  whipped  him  over  his 
naked  back  and  shoulders  with  a  colt.  The 
colt  is  a  piece  of  hard  twisted  rope,  about  the 
size  of  a  man's  fore  finger,  which  not  only 
scarified,  but  absolutely  brought  out  a  piece  of 
flesh  with  every  blow  that  was  struck.  Let  me 
here  appeal  to  the  hearts  of  all,  even  to  the  most 
degenerate  man  :  was  not  a  scene  like  this  suf- 


36  PUNISHMENT    AT  SEA. 

ficient  to  harrow  up  every  feeling,  and  freeze 
the  very  blood  in  our  veins ; — to  behold  a 
wretch,  destitute  of  any  feeling  for  a  fellow- 
creature,  to  have  power  placed  in  his  hands,  so 
as  to  enable  him  to  torment  those  under  his 
command  ; — a  wretch,  deaf  to  all  feelings  of  hu- 
manity, unworthily  abusing  that  power,  which 
perhaps  would  have  been  an  honor  in  the 
hands  of  a  humane  and  worthy  officer  1 

The  winds  continued  favorable,  accompa- 
nied with  pleasant  weather  for  several  days 
after  our  departure,  when  it  ceased,  and  we 
were  occasionally  visited  with  heavy  squalls  of 
rain,  thunder,  and  lightning,  and  not  unfre- 
quently  a  high  and  heavy  sea  running.  At 
these  times,  our  bark  glided  majestically 
through  the  troubled  waters,  proudly  dashing 
aside  their  angry  spray. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Tin  ship,  being  rocked  by  the  roaring  v.  iml, 
lie,  —  a  tempest  both  in  bod}'  and  in  mind  — 
Slowly  closed  his  eyes  upon  the  ocean  foam, 
And  deemed  that  deep  his  last  long  home. 

Author. 

A  Death — Funeral  at  Sea — Speak  a  Bark — Another 
Death — Island  of  Madagascar — Description  of — The 
Eclipse — Swimming — Make  the  Land — Cruelty — Ar- 
rival at  Muscat. 

On  the  11th  August,  one  of  the  crew  de- 
parted  this  life,  named  Thomas  McLean.  He 
had  been  sick  from  the  time  we  had  left  the 
United  States,  and  never  expected  to  recover, 
therefore  he  was  perfectly  resigned  to  that  fate 
which  cut  asunder  the  thread  of  his  mortal 
existence.  On  the  following  morning,  his  re- 
mains were  committed  to  the  deep,  with  the 
usual  funeral  ceremonies.  A  scene  of  this 
description,  is  ever  calculated  to  impress  the 
mind  with  religious  awe  from  its  solemnity,  and 
attendant  circumstances. 

At  the  appointed  time,  the  boatswain  and 
his  mates  summon  all  hands  to  bury  the  dead, 


38  FUNERAL    AT    SEA — SPEAK    A    BARK. 

not  in  the  tone  usually  adopted  on  other  occa- 
sions, but  in  a  more  dolorous  strain.  The  crew 
immediately  proceed  to  the  spar  or  upper  deck, 
and  shortly  afterwards  the  corpse  is  brought  up 
from  below,  by  the  messmates  of  the  deceased, 
and  laid  on  a  plank  at  the  lee  gangway,  resting 
on  the  ship's  rail  and  supported  up  by  the  same, 
ready  for  immersion  overboard.  The  reverend 
chaplain  commences  the  funeral  service,  all 
heads  being  uncovered,  perfect  silence  reigning 
around,  not  the  slightest  noise  disturbing  the 
stillness  and  solemnity  of  the  scene,  save  now 
and  then  the  screech  of  the  wild  sea  mew,  or 
the  roar  of  the  waves  as  they  break  against 
the  vessel's  hull. 

The  service  drawing  to  a  conclusion  at  that 
part  where  the  minister  says,  "  Earth  to  earth," 
and  "  dust  to  dust,"  the  inner  end  of  the  plank 
is  elevated,  and  the  corpse  slides  oft*;  one 
heavy  splash  is  heard,  and  the  waves  close  over 
it  till  time  shall  be  no  more,  and  the  sea  yields 
up  its  dead. 

On  the  day  of  McLean's  funeral,  we  came 
up  with  and  spoke  an  English  bark,  bound 
from  London  to  Sydney,  New  South  Wales. 
We  hove  our  ship  to,  and  allowed  her  boat  to 
come  along  side,  and  her  captain  came  on 
board.     Having  stated  that  he  was  ill  supplied 


ANOTHER    DEATH MADAGASCAR.  39 

with  a  few  necessary  articles,  which  he  named, 
on  account  of  the  long  passage  he  had  met 
with,  he  was  supplied  according  to  the  nature 
of  his  wants,  and  his  hoat  left.  Made  sail,  and 
continued  on  our  voyage,  profiting  by  a  favor- 
able breeze. 

We  had  to  part  with  another  of  the  crew  on 
th  el4th  inst.  in  the  person  of  Owen  Monk, 
(corporal  of  marines,)  who  had  been  lingering 
for  some  weeks  with  consumption.  He  bore 
the  pangs  and  privations  of  a  mortal  illness 
with  unshrinking  fortitude,  relying,  in  his  last 
moments,  upon  the  mercy  of  that  God  whose 
divine  Son  died  to  save  all,  with  whom  we 
trust  he  is  now  enjoying  the  reward  of  the 
righteous. 

On  the  following  morning,  the  funeral  ser- 
vice was  read  over  the  remains  of  the  deceased, 
and  they  were  committed  to  the  fathomless 
deep. 

From  this  period,  our  time  passed  on  as 
usual,  following  our  customary  avocations,  the 
weather  at  times  boisterous  and  unpleasant,  un- 
til we  were  off  the  island  of  Madagascar,  which 
we  made  on  the  29th  inst.  bearing,  per  com- 
pass, NAV.  by  W.  J  W. ;  and  from  the  descrip- 
tion given  by  late  navigators,  (however  the  accu- 
racy of  the  statement  may  be  depended  upon,) 


40 


DESCRIPTION    OF    MADAGASCAR. 


is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  fertile  islands  in 
the  world.  It  is  situated  between  43  and  51 
decrees  of  east  longitude,  and  between  12  and 
26  south  latitude,  300  miles  southeast  of  the 
continent  of  Africa,  it  being  nearly  1000  miles 
from  north  to  south  in  length,  and  generally 
between  200  and  300  miles  broad. 

The  sea  rolls  with  great  rapidity,  and  is 
extremely  rough  between  this  island  and  the 
continent  of  Africa,  forming  a  channel  or  pas- 
sage through  which  all  European  ships,  in 
their  voyage  to  and  from  India,  generally  sail, 
unless  prevented  by  storms. 

Madagascar  is  a  pleasant,  desirable,  and  fer- 
tile country,  and,  from  its  products,  gives  abun- 
dant indications  that  nature  has  here  scattered 
her  riches  with  no  stinting  hand.  There  is  a 
chain  of  glorious  mountains  winding  through 
its  entire  length,  of  varied  height,  where  many 
large  and  navigable  rivers  take  their  source. 
It  affords  also  an  agreeable  variety  of  hills, 
valleys,  and  woods.  The  air  is  healthy,  and 
generally  temperate,  though  in  a  hot  climate. 
The  inhabitants  are  of  different  complexions 
and  religions,  —  some  white,  some  negroes, 
some  Mahommedans,  some  pagans. 

The  whites,  and  those  of  a  tawny  complex- 
ion,  who   inhabit   the    coasts,    are   descended 


ECLIPSE.  41 

from  the  Arabs,  as  is  evident  from  their  lan- 
guage and  religious  rites  ;  but  here  are  no 
mosques,  no  temples,  nor  any  stated  worship, 
except  that  they  offer  sacrifices  of  beasts  on 
particular  occasions,  —  as  when  sick,  when 
they  plant  yams  or  rice,  when  they  hold  their 
assemblies,  circumcise  their  children,  declare 
war,  enter  into  new-built  houses,  or  bury  their 
dead.  Some  of  their  ceremonies  and  prac- 
tices resemble  the  Jewish,  whence  it  is  conjec- 
tured they  are  descended  from  Jews,  who  for- 
merly settled  here,  though  no  one  knows  how 
or  when. 

This  island  was  first  discovered  by  the  Por- 
tuguese, in  the  year  1492.  The  French  have 
made  several  attempts  to  settle  here,  but  were 
always  repelled  by  the  natives.  There  seems 
nothing  wanting  but  knowledge  to  place  this 
large  and  beautiful  island  in  the  rank  of  great 
and  powerful  empires,  but  that  want  is  every 
thing. 

About  a  week  after  we  had  lost  sight  of  the 
island  of  Madagascar,  we  made  another,  called 
Rodriguez  ;  but  it  being  a  place  of  little  or  no 
note,  I  cannot  give  any  description  of  it. 

At  8,  P.  M.  on  the  3d  of  October,  my  atten- 
tion   was    suddenly    called    away    from    other 

objects,  to  notice  an  eclipse  of  the  moon,  two 

4* 


42  SWIMMING. 

thirds  of  its  disk  being  obscured.  An  occur- 
rence of  this  description  affords  an  excellent 
opportunity  to  the  navigator,  to  find  the  true 
and  exact  situation  of  the  ship.  Our  latitude 
was  found  to  be  14°  02'  south,  and  longitude 
by  the  eclipse,  66°  47'  east. 

At  this  time,  we  for  the  most  part  experi- 
enced moderate  breezes  and  extremely  sultry 
weather,  the  thermometer  being  87°  in  the 
shade,  and  110°  in  the  sun.  The  men  in  the 
evening  were  allowed  to  go  overboard  for  a 
bath,  providing  the  weather  was  favorable.  A 
sail  was  arranged  alongside,  to  prevent  any 
accident  taking  place  to  the  young  practitioner 
in  the  very  useful  art  of  swimming. 

At  3,  A.  M.  on  the  14th  inst.  when  all 
nature  was  hushed  in  silence,  disturbed  only 
at  intervals  by  the  snores  of  my  slumbering 
shipmates,  who  had  stretched  themselves  on 
the  deck,  on  account  of  the  excessive  heat 
preventing  them  from  sleeping  below,  the 
bright  moon  just  sinking  below  the  horizon, 
and  the  glittering  stars  twinkling  around, — at 
this  particular  time,  our  attention  was  called 
to  a  small,  dark  speck  on  the  ocean,  which  we 
could  not  make  out  ;  but  as  the  same  ap- 
proached us,  we  had  to  use  the  virtue  of  pa- 
tience by  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  same. 


ARABIAN    DORIO. 


43 


On  its  nearer  approach,  it  was  discovered  to 
be  an  Arabian  dorio :  she  was  hailed,  and  we 
received  a  reply  which  would  have  confused 
Dr.  Johnson  himself,  putting  us  to  a  complete 
nonplus,  as  they  spoke  in  Arabic. 

Having  on  board  a  native  of  Bombay,  acting 
in  the  capacity  of  servant,  on  his  return  to  his 
native  country,  the  lungs  of  the  boatswain's 
mates  were  put  in  full  force  to  call  him.  In 
the  course  of  a  few  moments  he  made  his 
appearance  on  the  quarter-deck,  rubbing  his 
eyes,  half  asleep  and  half  awake,  and  stretch- 
ing himself  with  long-protracted  yawns,  won- 
dering why  he  had  been  disturbed  from  his 
nocturnal  slumbers  to  appear  before  his  supe- 
riors, and  that  too  almost  in  a  state  of  nudity, 
as  in  his  hurry  he  had  forgotten  to  put  on  his 
outer  garments,  so  that  his  limbs  were  gently 
fanned  by  the  morning  breeze.  Being  made 
acquainted  with  the  requisition  for  his  services 
on  this  particular  occasion,  he  soon  mounted 
himself  at  the  gangway,  with  the  speaking- 
trumpet  in  one  hand,  the  other  being  fully 
occupied  in  holding  down  that  part  of  the 
dress  which  is  so  essentially  necessary  to  de- 
cency. Then,  as  if  proud  of  his  situation,  he 
threw  himself  into  a  theatrical  attitude,  which 
would  have  done  credit  to  a  Cooke  or  Remble, 


& 


44  MAKE    THE    LAND CRUELTY. 

exclaiming  now,  "I  peak  dat  fellow."  The 
scene  exhibited  would,  in  reality,  have  excited 
the  risible  muscles  of  the  most  perfect  stoic, 
not  only  from  the  part  he  enacted  with  his 
various  gestures,  but  the  oddity  of  the  lan- 
guage, in  full  play,  between  him  and  the  crew 
of  the  dorio. 

We  soon,  however,  came  to  a  proper  under- 
standing through  the  medium  of  our  interpret- 
er, who  informed  us  she  was  out  from  Muscat 
and  bound  to  Bombay,  loaded  with  dates  and 
other  fruits,  the  produce  of  Arabia. 

On  the  ensuing  day,  we  discovered  high  land 
on  the  coast  of  Arabia,  one  of  the  head  lands, 
named  the  Devil's  Gap,  bearing,  per  compass, 
SW.  |  S.  Naturally  anxious  to  get  into  port, 
after  the  long  passage  Ave  had  met  with  from 
Rio,  we  were  prevented  from  attaining  our 
wish,  in  consequence  of  light  baffling  airs  and 
calms,  until  the  17lh,  when,  having  received  an 
Arabian  pilot  on  board,  we  stood  in  for  the 
harbor,  and  came  to  an  anchor  at  Muscat, 
after  eighty  days'  passage  from  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

A  few  days  previous  to  rour  arrival  at  Mus- 
cat, the  ship's  company  had  been  put  on  an 
allowance  of  water,  and  however  requisite  in 
many  cases  this  restriction  might  be  necessary, 
yet,  in  the  present  case,  it  was  entirely  needless, 


ARRIVAL    AT    MUSCAT.  45 

as  the  ship  was  within  a  few  days'  sail  of  her 
port,  and  at  that  time  had  upwards  of  thir- 
ty thousand  gallons  of  that  essential  article 
of  life  on  board.  That  quantity,  upon  an 
averaged  computation,  was  sufficient  for  two 
months,  at  an  allowance  of  five  hundred  gal- 
lons per  day.  Here  we  were,  with  a  scorching 
sun  over  our  heads,  famishing  with  thirst ;  and 
yet,  two  days  before  our  arrival,  seven  hun- 
dred o-allons  of  water  were  taken  to  scrub 
and  cleanse  the  paint-work  of  the  ship,  previ- 
ous to  her  arrival.  The  half-famished  mari- 
ners actually  drinking  the  soap  suds,  and  fight- 
ins:  amongst  themselves  to  obtain  the  first 
draught.  Does  not  humanity  shudder  at  the 
idea  of  this  unjustifiable  and  thoughtless  act 
upon  the  part  of  the  officers,  or  more  properly 
the  executive  officer  of  the  ship,  in  whose  sole 
hands  the  authority  of  allowing  more  water 
was  vested  ?  Landsmen  would  not  credit  the 
various  scenes  of  cruelty  and  tyrannic  oppres- 
sion I  have  been  an  eye-witness  to,  as  well  as 
a  partial  sufferer  ;  the  present  case  is  only  a 
part,  and  not  to  be  compared  to  others,  which 
were  done  by  these  "  gentlemen  of  the  epau- 
lette," during  the  cruise,  and  which  I  shall 
note  as  they  happened. 

On  our  arrival,  we   were  informed  that  the 


46  ARRIVAL    AT    MUSCAT. 

John  Adams  had  been  here,  and  left  again  for 
Bombay.  After  having  furled  the  sails  and 
put  every  thing  in  its  proper  place  and  position, 
the  sultan's  flag  was  hoisted  at  the  fore,  and 
we  fired  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns>  which 
was  duly  returned  by  the  forts  ashore. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

What  is  life  ?  tis  but  a  madness. 
What  is  life  ?    A  wild  illusion, 
Fleeting  shadow,  fond  delusion, 
Short-lived  joy  that  ends  in  sadness, 
Whose  most  steadfast  substance  seems 
But  the  dream  cf  other  dreams. 

Anoxymous. 

Another  Death — Arabia  —  Description  of— Customs, 
Manners,  &e. — Bedouins,  or  roving  Arabs — Mahom- 
et's Tomb — Muscat — Account  of — Visit  of  Capt.  Cal- 
forn — The  Imaun  visits  the  Ship,  his  reception,  &c. — 
Another  Death. 

As  the  rumbling  noise  of  the  last  gun  fired, 
and  the  echo  of  the  same,  which  was  responded 
by  the  gigantic  mountains  by  which  we  were 
surrounded,  was  still  upon  our  ears,  and  the 
smoke  of  the  same  winding  along  in  a  graceful 

coo 

curve  on  the  surface  of  the  water, — at  that  mo- 
ment the  spirit  of  another  of  my  shipmates 
was  wafted  away,  with  that  dying  sound,  to  the 
presence  of  his  heavenly  Creator. 

The  individual  alluded  to  was  an  elderly 
man,  named  John  Clark,  (quarter  gunner,)  who 
was    taken   ill   but   a   few    moments    previous 


48  ANOTHER    DEATH ARABIA. 

to  his  death.  He  appeared  to  enjoy  his  usual 
health  at  the  earlier  part  of  the  day,  and  pur- 
sued the  usual  course  of  his  duty.  At  the 
time  this  melancholy  incident  took  place,  the 
heat  of  the  atmosphere  was  most  oppressive, 
the  thermometer  being  S9°  in  the  shade,  and 
110°  in  the  sun. 

From  subsequent  inquiries,  I  ascertained 
that,  notwithstanding  the  oppressive  heat  of  the 
weather,  the  unfortunate  man  had  carelessly 
exposed  himself,  by  attending  to  his  duties 
bareheaded  in  the  heat  of  the  sun,  and  to 
which  cause  his  consequent  death  is  attrib- 
uted. 

On  the  following  morning,  his  remains  were 
conveyed  on  shore  for  interment.  A  few  of 
the  petty  officers  and  his  messmates,  attending 
the  same  to  the  peaceful,  silent  grave. 

Arabia,  in  which  Muscat  is  situated,  on  the 
sea  coast,  has  always  preserved  its  ancient 
name.  The  word  Arab,  it  is  generally  said, 
signifies  a  robber  or  freebooter.  These  names 
justly  belong  to  the  Arabians  ;  for  they  seldom 
let  any  merchandise  pass  through  the  country 
without  extorting  something  from  the  owners, 
if  they  do  not  rob  them. 

The  mountains  of  Horeb  and  Sinai,  men- 
tioned in   the   holy  Scriptures,  lie   in   Arabia 


DESCRIPTION    OF    ARABIA.  49 

Petrae,  and  may  be  termed  as  belonging  to  the 
principal  natural  curiosities. 

From  Mount  Sinai  may  be  seen  Mount 
Horeb,  where  Moses  kept  the  flocks  of  Jethro, 
his  father-in-law,  when  he  saw  the  burning 
bush,  and  on  the  former  he  received  the  ten 
commandments.  On  these  mountains  are  many 
chapels  and  cells,  and  the  Mahometans  hold 
this  spot  in  great  veneration.  The  Christians 
have  a  monastery  built  here,  which  is  possessed 
by  Latin  monks,  who,  like  the  religious  at 
Jerusalem,  pretend  to  show  the  very  spot 
where  every  miracle  or  transaction  recorded 
in  Scripture  happened.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
high  wall,  and  the  visiters,  who  go  in  and  out, 
are  let  down  and  drawn  up  by  baskets  ;  and, 
from  the  various  articles  shown,  with  the  ex- 
planations given  by  the  monks,  and  the  infor- 
mation derived  by  the  visiters,  it  reminds  me 
of  those  beautiful  lines,  as  expressed  by  Byron, 
who  says, 

Holy  ground ; 
No  earth  of  thine  is  lost  in  vulgar  mould, 
But  one  vast  realm  of  wonder  spreads  around, 
And  all  the  Muses'  tales  seem  truly  told, 
Till  the  sense  aches  with  gazing  to  behold. 

The   Arabians,  like   most  of  the  nations  of 

Asia,  are   of  a  middle  stature,  thin,  and   of  a 
5 


50  THE    BEDOUINS. 

swarthy  complexion,  with  black  hair  and  black 
eyes.  They  are  swift  of  foot,  excellent  horse- 
men, and  are  said  to  be,  in  general,  a  martial, 
brave  people,  expert  at  the  bow  and  the  lance, 
and  since  they  became  acquainted  with  the 
use  of  firearms,  good  marksmen.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  the  inland  country  live  in  tents,  and 
remove  from  place  to  place  with  their  flocks 
and  herds. 

The  habit  of  the  roving  Arabs,  (a  few  of 
whom  visited  our  ship,)  termed  the  Bedouins, 
is  a  kind  of  blue  shirt,  tied  about  them  with  a 
sash  or  girdle  ;  they  also  wear  drawers,  and 
sometimes  slippers,  but  no  stockings,  and  have 
a  cap  or  turban  on  their  head.  Many  of  them 
go  almost  naked  ;  but  the  women  are  so 
wrapped  up  that  nothing  can  be  seen  but  their 
eyes. 

The  most  useful  animals  in  Arabia  are  cam- 
els and  dromedaries  :  they  are  most  amazingly 
fitted  by  Providence  for  traversing  the  dry  and 
parched  deserts  of  this  country,  for  they  are 
so  formed  that  they  can  throw  up  water  from 
their  stomachs  into  their  throats,  by  which 
means  they  can  travel  six  or  eight  days  with- 
out water.  A  camel  will  usually  carry  about 
eight  hundred  pounds  weight  upon  its  back, 
which  is  not  taken  off  during  the  journey  ;  for 


mahomet's  tomb.  51 

they  naturally  kneel  down  to  their  rest,  and  in 
due  time  rise  with  their  load. 

The  Arabians,  in  general,  are  such  thieves, 
that  travellers  and  pilgrims  are  struck  with 
terror  on  approaching  the  deserts. 

These  robbers,  headed  by  a  captain,  trav- 
erse the  country  on  horseback,  and  plunder 
and  assault  the  caravans. 

The  air  of  Arabia  is  excessively  hot  and 
dry,  and  the  country  is  subject  to  hot,  pesti- 
lential winds:  the  soil,  in  many  parts,  is  noth- 
ing more  than  immense  sands,  which,  when 
agitated,  roll  like  the  troubled  ocean,  and 
bury  whole  caravans  in  their  course. 

The  religion  of  the  Arabs  is  Mahomedan- 
ism,  the  burial-place  of  their  prophet  being 
situated  at  a  small  town  called  Medina,  where 
there  is  a  stately  mosque  built  and  supported 
by  four  hundred  pillars,  and  furnished  with 
three  hundred  silver  lamps,  which  are  continu- 
ally burning.  His  coffin  is  covered  with  cloth 
of  gold,  under  a  canopy  of  silver  tissue. 

The  Arabs  are  descended  from  Ishmael,  of 
whose  posterity  it  was  foretold  that  they 
should  be  invincible,  —  'c  have  their  hands 
against  every  man,  and  every  man's  hand 
against  them."  They  are  independent  and 
unconquerable    at    present,    and    have    so    re- 


52  ACCOUNT    OF    MUSCAT. 

mained  from  remotest  ages,  during  the  various 
conquests  of  the  Greeks,  Romans,  and  Tar- 
tars, —  a  convincing  proof  of  the  divinity  of 
this  prediction. 

The  books  which  treat  of  their  language, 
say  that  they  have  no  jess  than  a  thousand 
terms  to  express  the  word  camel,  and  five  hun- 
dred for  that  of  lion.  But  among  these  are 
reckoned  the  metaphorical  expressions  and 
images  of  their  poets. 

Having  thus  given  a  description  of  Arabia, 
with  its  various  novelties,  in  a  limited  degree, 
I  add  an  account  of  the  town  and  harbor  of 
Muscat,  where  we  are  at  present  lying.  It 
is  situated  in  the  mouth  of  the  Gulf  of  Ormus, 
in  latitude  23°  37'  north,  and  longitude  58° 
30'  east :  it  has  an  excellent  harbor,  and  is  well 
fortified,  there  being  two  castles  situated  at  the 
entrance  of  the  same,  as  also  another  built  on 
the  peak  of  one  of  the  mountains,  and  which 
is  used  as  a  look-out  house,  erected  by  the 
Portuguese  in  the  year  1650,  who  had  posses- 
sion of  the  place,  but  were  repelled  by  the 
grandfather  of  the  present  Imaun,  and  it  has 
remained  in  the  possession  of  the  Arabs  from 
that  period. 

The  churches,  as  originally  built  by  the  Por- 
tuguese, have    been   converted   into  mosques, 


VISIT    OF    CAPT.    CALFORN.  53 

answering  the  purposes   of  religious  worship, 
however  different  the  creeds  may  be. 

This  port  lias  long  been  an  emporium  of  the 
trade  of  India,  Persia,  and  Arabia  ;  and  Eng- 
lish ships  from  Hindostan  carry  on  a  trade 
with  this  town. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival,  we  were  visited  by 
Capt.  Calforn,  holding  a  commission  in  the 
sultan's  navy,  and,  from  information  received, 
I  believe  he  holds  a  tolerable  share  of  ships  of 
that  description,  the  greater  part  of  which 
were  at  different  ports  on  the  coast,  and  cruis- 
ing around.  Capt.  Calforn,  who  was  also 
accompanied  by  the  American  consul,  was 
saluted  when  he  came  on  board,  and  the  salute 
was  echoed  by  the  forts.  The  captain  was  a 
most  agreeable  looking  man,  dressed  in  the 
costume  of  his  native  country  :  he  seemed  to 
attract  the  attention  of  all  the  officers  by  his 
gentlemanly  manners,  and  the  affability  of  his 
disposition.  He  spoke  the  English  language 
remarkably  well,  having  been  in  England.  He 
was  for  some  time  in  the  British  naval  service. 
On  the  21st  inst.  his  highness  the  Imaun,  of 
Muscat,  having  previously  signified  an  inten- 
tion of  visiting  the  ship,  the  crew  were  actively 
employed,  from  the  earlier  part  of  the  day,  in 
making  preparations  for  his  reception,  so  as  to 
5* 


54  VISIT  Of    THE   IMAUN. 

give  him  a  specimen  of  American  hospitality, 
in  return  for  his  kindness  in  rendering  ail  pos- 
sible assistance  to  the  officers  and  crew  of  the 
United  States  ship  Peacock,  which,  on  a  for- 
mer occasion,  had  unfortunately  got  ashore  on 
the  coast,  and  had  succeeded  in  getting  off 
again  by  the  aid  sent  from  Muscat. 

His  highness  came  on  board  at  2,  P.  M.  all 
the  officers  being  on  deck  to  receive  him.  The 
marine  guard  was  drawn  out,  headed  by  their 
commanding  officer,  in  full  uniform,  and  under 
arms  upon  the  quarter-deck;  and  the  yards 
were  manned  by  the  blue  jackets,  (or  sailors,) 
in  white  frocks  and  trowsers.  The  scene  ex- 
hibited on  the  occasion  had  a  very  imposing 
appearance. 

Shortly  after  his  appearance  on  board,  the 
drums  beat  to  quarters,  that  his  highness  might 
have  a  better  opportunity  of  inspecting  the 
crew  ;  and  every  man  was  at  his  respective  gun 
on  the  instant,  as  if  by  natural  instinct. 

He  appeared  much  pleased  with  our  general 
appearance,  and  gave  every  mark  of  satisfac- 
tion that  he  was  so. 

After  partaking  of  a  slight  repast,  he  again 
left  for  the  shore,  when  the  same  polite  atten- 
tions were  paid  him  as  on  his  arrival  ;  the 
yards  being  again  manned,  the  sailors  at  this 


DEATH PUNISH3IENT.  55 

time  exerting  their  lungs  with  three  spontane- 
ous cheers,  and  a  salute  made  by  our  iron  bull- 
dogs, with  a  much  louder  noise,  to  the  number 
of  twenty-one,  which  was  returned  by  the  forts 
ashore. 

Our  attention  was  called  away,  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  from  our  customary  duties,  for  a 
short  time,  to  pay  the  last  sad  duties  to  the 
memory  of  another  of  our  crew,  named  Henry 
Keating,  aged  21,  who,  just  upon  the  verge  of 
ripening  manhood,  was  called  away  to  his  last, 
long  home.  His  remains  were  sent  on  shore 
for  interment  in  the  same  ground  with  those 
of  his  former  shipmate,  John  Clark,  of  whose 
death  I  have  given  an  account. 

This  morning  there  were  two  hundred  and 
forty  lashes  served  out  in  a  short  space  of 
time.  The  boatswain's  mate  afterwards  ac- 
knowledged to  me,  that  his  arm  was  never  so 
fatigued  before.  These  back  rations  were 
served  upon  twenty  of  the  berth  deck  cooks, 
for  the  following  trivial  offence  :  It  was  "  cus- 
tomary "  on  board  of  this  ship,  however  "  un- 
customary "  in  other  men  of  war,  for  the  first 
lieutenant  to  go  round  the  berth  deck  every 
morning,  and  inspect  the  men's  "  tin  pots  and 
pans,"'  with  a  piece  of  white  paper,  with 
which  he   wiped  the   insides  of  the   said  pots 


58  LIEUT.   MAGRUDER. 

and  pans,  and  if  the  least  soil  came  off  on  the 
paper,  the  owner  was  sure  to  receive  a  dozen 
lashes  from  this  molly  coddle  of  tin  ware. 

Cleanliness  on  ship  board  is  absolutely  neces- 
sary, and  should  be  enforced ;  but  even  clean 
tin  will  soil  white  paper,  especially  when  damp- 
ened, as  at  sea  ;  and  cleanliness  can  be  en- 
forced on  an  American  by  a  kind  word,  more 
effectually  than  by  a  dozen  lashes. 

But  not  so,  it  seems,  thought  the  first  Lieu- 
tenant Magruder,  whose  time  was  generally 
occupied,  during  the  cruise,  in  keeping  the 
carpenters  at  work,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
him  fancy  articles  of  furniture,  and  that,  too, 
at  the  expense  of  the  government,  from  which 
he  was  receiving  his  daily  pay.  Magruder  was 
a  very  economical  man,  every  one  will  allow  ; 
and  it  was  a  most  admirable  method  to  furnish 
a  house  cheap  ! 


CHAPTER  V. 


He  that  steals  my  purse,  steals  trash  : 

'T  was  mine,  't  is  his,  and  has  been  slave  to  thousands  : 

But  he  that  filches  from  me  my  good  name, 

Takes  that  which  not  enriches  him,  and 

Makes  me  poor  indeed. 

Shakspeare. 


Leave  Muscat — Arrive  at  Bombay — Board  a  Brig — Ac- 
count of  Bombay — An  awkward  Affair — Honesty  the 
best  Policy — Description  of  the  Hindoos  generally — 
The  Air,  Climate,  &c— The  late  Tippoo  Saib— Visits 
— Another  Death — Bad  Provisions — Leave  Bombay  for 
Goa — The  Sea-coast,  &c. 

On  the  26th  October  we  got  under  way 
and  proceeded  on  our  cruise,  bound  to  Bom- 
bay, where  we  arrived  on  the  1st  day  of  No- 
vember, nothing  of  any  particular  moment 
transpiring  during  the  passage,  which  was 
short,  and  meeting  with  favorable  winds  on  the 
same. 

As  we  were  on  the  point  of  entering  the 
harbor,  we  perceived  a  brig  standing  out  under 
American  colors  :  a  boat  was  immediately 
lowered  down  and  despatched  alongside,  when 


58  ACCOUNT    OF    BOMBAY. 

it  was  found  to  be  the  brig  Cherokee,  bound 
to  Salem.  This  afforded  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity to  our  mariners  to  send  letters  to  their 
respective  families  and  friends,  which  was  em- 
braced by  many.  It  cannot  in  the  least  be 
doubted  there  were  many  tender  epistles  sent 
to  the  lovelier  and  softer  sex,  such  as  the  dark- 
eyed  beauty,  and  the  blue  or  hazel-eyed  girl  of 
their  souls,  breathing  forth  vows  of  eternal  con- 
stancy and  truth,  informing  thern  of  their  wel- 
fare, so  that  they  might  not  let  their 

Love  canker,  like  a  worm 
In  the  bud. 

Many  a  tender  epistle,  too,  to  a  fond,  despair- 
ing wife,  and  many  a  one  from  a  half-repentant 
prodigal  son  to  a  distracted  and  bereaved 
mother. 

On  coming  to  anchor,  we  perceived  our  con- 
sort, the  John  Adams,  in  a  similar  position, 
having  arrived  from  Muscat  a  few  days  pre- 
vious. As  customary,  and  according  to  naval 
etiquette,  the  English  colors  were  hoisted  at  the 
fore,  and  a  salute  fired  of  twenty-one  guns, 
which  was  returned. 

Bombay  is  situated  in  18°  56'  north  latitude, 
and  72°  43'  east  longitude,  and  is  one  of  the 
three  presidencies  belonging  to  the  East  India 
Company,    and  under  the    regulation    of    the 


ACCOUNT    OF    B03IBAY.  59 

English  government,  by  which  their  territories 
are  governed.  It  has  a  fine  capacious  harbor, 
or  bay,  where  fleets  find  security  in  all  seasons, 
and  can  conveniently  contain  one  thousand 
ships  at  anchor.  The  island  itself  is  about 
seven  miles  in  length  and  twenty  in  circumfer- 
ence ;  but  its  situation  and  its  harbor  are  its 
chief  recommendations. 

The  climate  was  in  former  years  fatal  to 
English  constitutions,  till  experience,  caution, 
and  temperance  taught  them  preservatives 
against  its  fatal  miasma.  The  best  water  is 
preserved  in  tanks,  which  receive  it  in  the 
rainy  seasons.  The  fort  is  a  regular  quadran- 
gle, and  well  built,  of  stone.  Many  black  mer- 
chants reside  here.  The  English  have  found 
methods  to  render  this  island  and  town,  under 
all  their  disadvantages,  a  safe  if  not  an  agree- 
able residence. 

The  reader  need  scarcely  to  be  informed 
that  the  governor  and  council  of  Bombay  have 
lucrative  posts,  as  well  as  the  officers  under 
them.  The  troops  on  the  island  are  command- 
ed by  English  officers,  several  of  whom  visited 
our  ship  ;  and  the  natives,  when  formed  into 
regular  companies  and  disciplined,  are  here 
and  all  over  the  East  Indies  called  Sepoys. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  island  amount  to  near 


60  THE    HINDOOS. 

sixty  thousand,  of  different  nations,  each  of 
whom  enjoys  the  practice  of  his  religion  unmo- 
lested. 

We  were  daily  visited  by  many  who  came 
on  board  attracted  by  motives  of  curiosity  or 
amusement.  Some  came  to  visit  us  with  those 
ideas,  and  others  to  display  their  articles  of 
merchandise  to  the  willing  purchaser.  They 
principally  consisted  of  fancy  ornaments,  such 
as  jewelry,  handkerchiefs,  &c. 

I  have  here  to  pause,  to  note  rather  an  un- 
pleasant affair  which  transpired,  and  which 
was  calculated  to  cast  a  blemish  upon  the  gen- 
eral character  of  many  an  individual,  who  was 
not  only  innocent,  but  not  even  an  observer  of 
the  transaction.  One  of  these  petty  merchants 
lost  some  shawls,  and  he  immediately  laid  the 
loss  to  some  of  the  crew  who  were  standing  by. 
Whether  such  was  the  case  or  not  is  hard  to  be 
proved  :  it  appears  the  property  was  never  seen 
or  recovered.  Whether  it  was  a  preconcerted 
scheme  of  his  own  to  get  something  in  return 
for  an  imaginary  loss,  I  know  not.  The  truth 
of  the  affair  was  never  known,  except  to  the  all- 
searching  eye  of  God. 

The  principal  part  of  our  visiters  consisted 
of  the  Hindoos.  I  was  particularly  struck 
with  the  simplicity  of  their  general  appearance, 


DRESS,     CUSTOMS,    ETC.  61 

and  cleanliness  of  their  dress  and  persons. 
Many  of  them  were  dressed  in  the  European 
fashion,  others  in  the  costume  of  their  country, 
which  in  the  -men  consists  of  a  kind  of  close- 
bodied  gown  and  trowsers,  resembling  petti- 
coats, reaching  down  to  their  slippers.  Such 
of  the  women  as  appear  in  public  have  shawls 
over  their  head  and  shoulders,  short  close  jack- 
ets, and  tight  drawers,  which  come  down  to 
their  ankles.  Hence  the  dress  of  the  men  gives 
them,  in  the  eyes  of  Europeans,  an  appearance 
of  effeminacy,  while  that  of  the,  women  seems 
rather  masculine. 

The  complexion  of  the  Hindoos  is  black, 
hair  long,  persons  straight  and  elegant, 
limbs  finely  proportioned,  fingers  long  and 
tapering,  countenances  open  and  pleasant, 
and  their  features  exhibit  the  most  delicate 
lines  of  beauty  in  the  females,  and  in  the 
males  a  kind  of  manly  softness. 

Their  houses  cover  much  ground,  and  have 
spacious  galleries  and  accommodations  of  ev- 
ery kind.  The  apartments  are  small  and  not 
very  elegant,  if  we  except  the  rich  Persian 
carpets,  with  which  the  floors  are  usually  cov- 
ered. The  apparel  of  the  higher  sort  of  wo- 
men is,  in  most  instances,  inconceivably  richi 
They  have  jewels  on  their  fingers  and  about 
6 


62  LATE    TIPPOO    SAIB. 

their  necks,  and  also  in  their  ears  and  nostrils ; 
with  bracelets  on  their  wrists  and  arms  and 
round  their  ankles. 

Their  manners  are  gentle  ;  their  happiness 
consists  in  the  solace  of  a  domestic  life  ;  and 
they  are  taught  by  their  religion  that  matri- 
mony is  an  indispensable  duty  in  every  man, 
who  does  not  entirely  devote  himself  to  the 
principles  of  religion  by  a  separation  from  the 
world.  Their  religion  permits  them  to  have 
several  wives,  but  they  seldom  have  more  than 
one;  and  it  has  been  observed  that  their  wives 
are  distinguished  by  a  decency  of  demeanor,  a 
solicitude  for  their  families,  and  a  fidelity  to 
their  vows,  which  might  do  honor  to  human 
nature  in  the  most  civilized  countries. 

Their  religion  forbids  them  to  quit  their  own 
country,  nor  do  they  want  any  thing  from 
abroad.  They  might  therefore  have  lived  in 
much  tranquillity  and  happiness,  if  others  had 
looked  on  them  with  the  same  indifference 
with  which  they  regard  the  rest  of  the  world. 

Hindostan  towards  the  north  is  pretty  tem- 
perate, but  hot  in  the  south,  and  it  rains  al- 
most constantly  for  three  months  in  the  year. 
In  the  year  1792,  war  was  declared  on  the  part 
of  the  British  against  the  celebrated  Tippoo 
Saib,  who  was  defeated,  and  his  capital  taken 


BAD    PROVISIONS.  63 

by  assault,  together  with   an  immense  quantity 
of  plunder. 

In  the  onset  Tippoo  Saib  lost  his  life,  and 
by  his  fall  a  great  extent  of  territory  accrued 
to  the  British  ;  and  the  power  of  the  latter  is 
now  secured  on   a  permanent  foundation. 

The  high-priests,  or  Brahmins,  have  the 
care  of  their  religion  and  laws,  and  these 
persons  are  held  sacred  by  the  Hindoos. 

During  our  stay  in  Bombay  we  were  honor- 
ed by  a  visit  from  his  excellency  the  governor, 
as  also  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  British 
forces  in  India,  who  were  each  and  severally 
saluted  according  to  their  rank. 

Previous  to  leaving  this  port,  our  purser 
purchased  bread  and  beef  for  the  men,  which 
had  been  cast  aside  as  unfit  for  use  by  the  En- 
glish East  Indiamen.  The  bread  was  full  of 
weevils,  or  small  black  bugs,  and  so  hard  that 
we  were  obliged  to  break  it  with  a  piece  of 
iron,  or  the  first  article  that  came  to  hand  ; 
and  when  thus  broken,  was  like  so  much  flint- 
glass.  To  this  bread  I  impute  the  commence- 
ment of  the  dysentery  in  the  ship,  (however 
wrong  I  may  be  in  my  judgment,)  for  it  was 
in  many  instances  absolutely  of  sufficient  sharp- 
ness to  cut  the  entrails. 

The  beef,  also  the  refuse   of  these  English 


64  LEAVE    BOMBAY. 

vessels,  was  actually  too  disgusting  for  smell. 
Had  there  been  no  better  on  shore,  it  is  rea- 
sonable to  suppose  that  the  Englishmen  would 
have  tried  to  stomach  this  in  preference  to 
starving  to  death. 

On  the  11th  November  we  got  under  way, 
and  left  the  harbor  of  Bombay,  with  our  con- 
sort, the  John  Adams,  bound  to  a  Portuguese 
settlement  named  Goa.  Shortly  after  our  de- 
parture, we  had  the  unpleasant  duty  to  fulfil 
of  consigning  the  remains  of  another  of  the 
crew  to  the  deep.  Alexander  Wilkinson  was 
past  all  the  aid  of  medical  skill,  having  been 
lingering  for  a  length  of  time  with  a  deep- 
rooted  consumption;  so  that  his  death  had 
been  long  expected. 

After  a  pleasant  passage  of  five  days,  we 
came  to  an  anchor  in  the  roads  of  Goa,  with 
the  John  Adams.  The  tract  of  the  peninsula 
that  borders  on  the  sea  between  Bombay  and 
Goa,  is  called  the  Concan,  and  sometimes  the 
Pirate  Coast,  as  it  was  subject  to  the  celebrated 
pirate  Angria,  and  his  successors,  whose  capi- 
tal was  the  strong  fortress  of  Gheriah,  taken 
by  the  English  and  Mahrattas  in  1755.  By 
this  acquisition  the  Mahrattas  have  become  a 
maritime  power. 

On  our  arrival  at   Goa  the  usual  naval  cus- 


THE    SEA-COAST.  65 

torn  was  adopted,  the  Portuguese  colors  being 
hoisted  at  the  fore,  and  a  salute  fired,  which 
was  returned  by  the  forts  on  shore.  The  town 
was  scarcely  perceptible  to  the  naked  eye  from 
the  ship,  as  it  is  situated  some  distance  from 
the  usual  place  of  anchorage  for  ships  of  large 
burthen. 

The   ensuing  morning  a  Portuguese  frigate 
also  arrived,  and  came  to  an  anchor  near  us. 


6* 


CHAPTER  VI. 

We  weigh  the  anchor,  and  spread  the  sail, 
And  full  of  faith  before  the  gale 
We  bound  ;  the  west  winds  softly  blow, 
As  eastward  on  our  course  we  go ; 
And  soon  around  nought  meets  our  eye 
But  outspread  sea  and  outstretched  sky. 

Account  of  Goa — The  late  Inquisition — Leave  the  Har- 
bor— Ghaut  Mountains — Cape  Comorin — The  Pearl 
Fishery — Account  of  operations — Make  Ceylon — An- 
chor at  Columbo — Description  of  Ceylon — The  Cin- 
namon Tree — Talipot  Tree — Its  various  uses — The 
Cingalese — Arrivals — A  very  feeling  remark. 

The  island  and  city  of  Goa  is  situated  on 
the  coast  of  Malabar,  in  15°  35'  north  latitude, 
and  73°  50'  east  longitude.  It  is  the  capital 
of  the  Portuguese  settlements  in  the  East  In- 
dies,  and  lies  about  260  miles  south  of  Bom- 
bay. This  island  is  about  twenty-seven  miles 
in  compass  :  it  is  one  of  the  finest  and  best 
ports,  as  far  as  regards  the  fortifications,  of 
any  in  the  Indies. 

This  was  formerly  a  most  splendid  city,  and 
was  surpassed,  either  in  size  or  beauty,  by  few 


' 


ACCOUNT     OF     GOA.  67 

of  the  European  cities.  It  is  said  that  the  rev- 
enues of  the  Jesuits  upon  the  island  equaled 
those  of  the  crown  of  Portugal.  Goa,  as  well 
as  the  rest  of  the  Portuguese  possessions  of 
this  coast,  are  under  a  viceroy,  who  still  keeps 
up  some  remains  of  the  ancient  splendor  of  the 
government. 

The  town  is  built  on  the  north  side  of  the 
island,  and  has  the  conveniency  of  a  fine  river, 
capable  of  receiving  ships  of  the  largest  bur- 
then, where  they  lie  within  a  mile  of  the  town. 

It  contains  a  great  number  of  handsome 
churches  and  convents,  and  a  stately  hospital. 
The  market-place  occupies  an  acre  of  ground  : 
in  the  shops  about  it  may  be  found  the  produce 
of  Europe,  China,  and  other  countries. 

It  was  noted  in  former  ages  for  the  terrors 
of  the  inquisition,  which  it  contained,  and 
which  is  said  to  have  exceeded  the  one  exist- 
ing in  those  days  in  Spain,  for  the  horrid  cru- 
elties practised  therein,  and  which  were  carried 
on  by  persons  under  the  cursed  infatuation  of 
blind  superstition,  who  thought  they  were  per- 
forming an  act  of  glory  to  their  Maker  by  tor- 
menting their  fellow-men,  under  the  sacred 
garb  of  religion. 

The  following  account  of  the  ruins  was  given 
me  by  an  officer  who  had  visited  them  : 

'•  In  the  evening  I  went  to  survey,  without  fear 


68  THE    LATE    INQUISITION. 

of  consequences,  the  buildings  of  the  once 
dreaded  inquisition.  These  are  of  plain  ma- 
sonry, of  various  heights  and  irregular  form, 
approaching  to  that  of  a  parallelogram,  three 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  on  the  north  front, 
and  a  hundred  and  seventy-five  at  the  east 
end.  The  principal  entrance,  facing  the  city 
cathedral,  is  through  a  large  portal  of  stone. 
What  were  our  feelings  on  entering  within  the 
hideous  enclosure  !  Nothing  but  ruin  instantly 
met  our  eyes.  The  roof  had  fallen  in  ;  the 
floors  everywhere  giving  way ;  and  the  walls 
were  mouldering  towards  early  destruction ; 
while  shrubs  and  creepers  were  growing  luxu- 
riantly upon  the  tottering  masses,  and  through 
the  ruptured  battlements.  The  great  hall  had 
been  stripped  of  its  gloomy  magnificence,  a 
painted  surface,  consisting  of  a  few  triangular 
figures  alone  remaining  ;  while  the  rotten  floor, 
overgrown  with  grass,  felt  scarcely  safe  to 
tread  upon.  Indeed,  it  was  with  some  degree 
of  trepidation  that  we  walked  across  the  vari- 
ous apartments  through  which  we  were  led  ; 
the  crazy  timbers  and  floors  frequently  creak- 
ing and  yielding,  as  though  they  would  have 
failed  beneath  our  feet. 

"  Descending  to  the  dungeons  below,  it  was 
with  difficulty  we  could  make  our  way  from 
one  i*ecess  to  another,  doors,  walls  and  ceilings 


THE    LATE    INQUISITION.  69 

mingling  their  materials  together  in  heaps  of 
rubbish.  At  length  we  found  a  narrow  stair- 
case  which  conducted  us  to  the  principal  cells, 
in  the  deepest,  darkest  strongholds  of  this  cas- 
tle of  despair   and  death. 

"  These  were  formed  below  the  level  of  the 
ground,  and  consist  of  three  rows,  each  con- 
taining six  cells,  ten  feet  square  below,  by  fif- 
teen high,  with  arched  roofs,  and  small  iron- 
barred  windows,  to  admit  a  little  air,  and  less 
light.  Indeed,  on  first  entering  one  of  these 
dens,  we  could  scarcely  see  each  other,  or  dis- 
tinguish the  dimensions.  All  the  doors  have 
been  removed  ;  but  it  was  apparent  that,  besides 
locks  and  bolts,  two  heavy  wooden  bars  had 
been  employed  to  fasten  them  on  the  outside. 

"  The  cells  stand  in  three  parallel  lines,  hav- 
ing the  same  aspect ;  so  that  the  doors  of  one 
row  face  the  back  of  the  row  before  them,  pre- 
venting the  possibility  of  communication  be- 
tween the  prisoners  confined  in  the  one  ■  with 
those  confined  in  the  other.  The  walls  are 
very  thick.  A  veranda,  five  feet  wide,  support- 
ed by  pillars,  extends  in  front  of  each  row  of 
cells  ;  and  between  the  veranda  and  the  row 
beyond  is  an  area  of  the  same  breadth.  At 
right  angles  with  these,  and  at  either  end  are 
two  other  ranges,  each  containing  seven  dis- 
tinct dungeons. 


70  THE    LATE    INQUISITION. 

"  One  of  these  latter  had  been  employed  as 
the  room  for  examining  the  miserable  beings 
that  fell  into  the  clutches  of  the  inquisitors,  by 
the  torture.  This  was  indicated  by  a  broad, 
black  stripe,  all  about  the  upper  part  of  the 
walls,  with  similar  stripes  extending  from  an- 
gle to  angle  and  crossing  in  the  middle. 

"  In  the  roof  of  this  apartment  there  is  a  small 
square  aperture,  through  which  it  is  said  the 
inhuman  judges  listened  to  the  confessions,  the 
groans  and  shrieks  of  their  agonized  victims, 
while  the  rope  and  the  rack  stretched  their 
limbs  to  dislocation,  or  torments  more  exqui- 
site, by  fire  and  steel,  were  inflicted  upon 
them. 

"  Over  these  five  rows  of  cells  there  have  been 
upper  stories,  now  dilapidated,  which  appear 
to  have  been  of  the  same  construction  and  for 
the  same  purposes  as  the  lower. 

"  The  last  auto-da-fe,  or  public  execution  of 
condemned  persons,  here  took  place  in  1777  ; 
from  which  time,  till  the  holy  office  was  abso- 
lutely abolished  by  the  interference  of  the  Brit- 
ish government  in  1811,  the  bodies  of  the 
wretches  that  perished  within  the  walls  of  the 
inquisition  here,  either  under  the  torture  or  by 
direct  violence,  or  from  heart-breaking  cap- 
tivity, are  said  to  have  been  thrown  into  a  very 


CAPE     COMORIN.  71 

deep  tank,  within  the  precincts  of  the  dungeon 
quarter. 

"  The  original  structure  was  the  palace  of  a 
Mahomedan  prince,  afterwards  the  residence 
of  the  Portuguese  viceroy,  then  converted  into 
a  Popish  "place  of  torment,"  which  deserved  a 
harder  name  than  that  of  purgatory.  Now 
happily  it  is  "  a  desolation,"  and  will  be  a 
"  perpetual  scorn,"  so  long  as  one  stone  shall 
remain  upon  another  to  cry  out  against  its  for- 
mer priestly  possessors." 

Our  stay  at  Goa  was  short,  leaving  it  on  the 
following  morning,  with  the  John  Adams,  for 
Columbo,  in  the  island  of  Ceylon.  We  were 
in  sight  of  the  coast  of  Hindostan  the  greater 
part  of  the  passage,  and,  it  being  remarkably 
bold,  we  were  frequently  close  in  shore.  When 
off  a  town  called  Aleppee,  we  could  discern 
with  the  naked  eye  several  ships  at  anchor  in 
the  harbor. 

The  scenery  occasionally  displayed  was  ro- 
mantic in  the  extreme,  the  whole  beinjj  sur- 
mounted  by  the  stupendous  Ghaut  mountains, 
whose  summits  appeared  to  be  lost  in  the 
clouds.  They  are  situated  in  the  country  of 
Mysore,  the  capital  of  which,  Seringapatam,  is 
now  held  by  the  English.  They  extend  from 
the    Surat  river   to    Cape   Comorin,    running 


72  THE     PEARL    FISHERY. 

within  sixty,  and  at  some  parts  within  twenty- 
miles  of  the  coast. 

They  are  in  many  places  a  mile  and  a  quar- 
ter in  height,  overgrown  with  forests,  and  have 
their  summits  frequently  covered  with  snow. 
They  are  usually  termed  the  Indian  Apennines. 
At  their  termination,  near  Cape  Comorin,  they 
may  be  seen  nine  or  ten  leagues  out  at  sea. 

We  passed  the  above  cape  on  the  23d  No- 
vember, situated  in  latitude  7°  50'  north,  and 
longitude  77°  33'  east.  It  is  about  3  leagues 
in  extent,  and  is  famous  for  uniting  in  the  same 
garden  the  two  seasons  of  the  year;  the  trees 
beinjr  loaded  with  blossoms  and  fruit  on  the 
one  side,  while  on  the  other  they  are  stripped 
of  all  their  foliage.  This  surprising  phenome- 
non is  owing  to  the  ridge  of  mountains  I 
have  just  mentioned,  called  the  Ghauts.  Be- 
tween this  cape  and  the  island  of  Ceylon,  to 
which  we  were  bound,  lies  the  pearl  fishery. 

As  there  exist  many  popular  errors  on  this 
very  interesting  subject,  I  will  endeavor  to 
give  an  account  of  the  fishery  from  materials 
which  I  have  derived  from  the  most  authentic 
sources.  It  is  from  the  description  given  by  a 
British  officer,  who  was  for  a  considerable  time 
stationed,  with  part  of  the  regiment  to  which 
he  belonged,  at  the  very  spots  where  the  pearl 
fisheries  were  carried  on. 


ACCOUNT    OF    OPERATIONS.  73 

The  pearl  oysters,  like  our  common  oysters, 
lie  in  clusters,  at  greater  or  less  depths  in  the 
sea.  These  clusters  occur  on  the  western  side 
of  the  island  of  Ceylon,  about  fifteen  miles 
from  the  shore,  where  their  average  depth  is 
about  twelve  fathoms  ;  and  here  the  greatest 
of  all  pearl  fisheries  have  been  carried  on  for 
many  ages. 

The  fishery  begins  in  the  month  of  April, 
because  in  these  latitudes  the  sea  is  then  in  its 
calmest  state,  and  it  is  generally  continued  un- 
til the  middle  or  end  of  May.  It  not  only  at- 
tracts a  multitude  of  Cingalese,  or  natives  of 
the  island,  to  the  coast,  but  crowds  of  specula- 
tors from  all  parts  of  the  vast  Indian  peninsula, 
whose  variety  of  manners,  language,  and  dress 
is  described  as  being  very  striking  and  pleasing. 

The  temporary  abodes  erected  for  them,  or 
by  them,  are  also  curious  and  picturesque  ob- 
jects. On  a  solitary  sea-shore  a  mass  of  al- 
most innumerable  huts  is  at  once  seen  to  arise 
on  the  eve  of  the  fishery.  These  huts  are 
merely  composed  of  a  few  poles  stuck  in  the 
ground,  and  interwoven  with  light  bamboos, 
and  covered  with  the  leaves  of  the  cocoa-nut 
tree.  These  slender  erected  habitations  often 
shelter  as  many  as  one  hundred  thousand  per- 
sons. 


s. 


74  MAKE    CEYLON. 

The  signal  given  for  beginning  the  fishery 
is  by  the  discharge  of  a  cannon  at  daybreak. 
The  boats  of  the  pearl  fishers  generally  carry 
a  captain,  a  pilot,  and  twenty  men,  ten  of 
whom  are  experienced  divers.  The  divers  are 
divided  into  two  companies,  and  they  plunge 
and  relieve  each  other  by  turns. 

During  the  prosecution  of  the  fishery,  few 
places  can  be  more  animated  than  the  western 
point  of  Ceylon.  The  oysters,  or  cleansed 
pearls,  are  bought  and  sold  on  the  spot ;  and  be- 
side this  trade,  the  confluence  of  so  many 
crowds  from  different  countries  attracts  dealers 
in  all  sorts  of  merchandise. 

The  long  line  of  huts  is  a  continuous  bazar, 
and  all  is  life  and  activity  ;  but,  the  fishery 
over,  both  strangers  and  natives  depart,  the 
huts  are  knocked  down,  scarcely  a  human 
habitation  can  be  seen  for  miles,  and  the 
most  dreary  solitude  prevails  until  the  next 
year. 

We  made  the  island  of  Ceylon  on  the  24th 
inst.  but  did  not  come  to  an  anchor  off"  the 
town  of  Columbo,  with  the  John  Adams,  until 
the  ensuing  day,  when  the  ship  was  moored, 
the  English  colors  hoisted,  and  the  same  sa- 
luted, which  was  duly  returned  by  the  forts 
ashore. 


THE    CINNAMON    TREE.  75 

This  island,  though  not  the  largest,  is  thought 
to  be  by  nature  the  richest  and  finest  island  in 
the  world  :  it  is  about  250  miles  long  and  200 
broad.  The  natives  call  it,  with  some  show  of 
reason,  the  terrestrial  paradise  ;  and  it  produces, 
besides  excellent  fruit  of  all  kinds,  long  pep- 
per, fine  cotton,  ivory,  silk,  tobacco,  ebony, 
musk,  crystal,  various  minerals,  spices,  and  all 
kinds  of  precious  stones  except  diamonds. 
Every  part  of  the  island  is  well  wooded  and 
watered  :  it  abounds  in  animals  of  every  de- 
scription. The  Ceylon  elephant  is  preferred 
to  all  others,  especially  if  spotted  ;  several 
noxious  animals,  such  as  serpents  and  ants,  are 
likewise  found  here.  The  chief  commodity  of 
the  island  is  its  cinnamon,  which  is  bv  far  the 
best  in  all  Asia.  Though  the  trees  of  this 
flavoring  spice  grow  in  great  profusion,  yet 
the  best  are  found  in  the  neighborhood  of  Co- 
Jumbo,  off  which  town  we  anchored.  The 
cinnamon  tree  grows  to  the  height  of  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  feet,  and  the  stem  to  a  diameter 
of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches:  the  young 
leaves  have  a  scarlet,  crimson  color,  and  the 
bark  of  the  shoots  is  often  beautifully  speckled 
with  dark  green  and  light  orange  color.  The 
tree  thrives  best  in  rich,  light,  dry  soil,   and 


76  TALIPOT    TREE USES. 

some  degree  of  shelter  from  the  ardent  rays  of 
the  sun  seems  to  be  beneficial  to  it.  The 
highly  esteemed  spice  is  the  prepared  bark  of 
the  tree  :  the  shoots  are  peeled  by  making  a 
longitudinal  incision  through  the  bark  on  both 
sides,  and  then  introducing  a  knife  under  the 
bark,  and  thereby  separating  it  from  the  wood. 
The  leaves  of  the  cinnamon  tree  yield  an  es- 
sential oil,  which  exactly  resembles  the  oil  of 
cloves,  and  the  bark  of  the  root  is  strongly 
impregnated  with  camphor,  from  which  it  may 
be  extracted  by  a  chemical  process. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  trees  in  Ceylon 
is  the  talipot  tree  ;  and  there  are  few  objects 
in  the  vegetable  kingdom  more  remarkable  and 
beautiful,  or  more  useful  to  man.  It  is  as  big 
and  as  tall  as  the  mast  of  a  ship  ;  the  stem  is 
perfectly  straight,  which  gradually  diminishes 
as  it  ascends,  and  it  is  strong  enough  to  resist 
the  most  violent  tropical  wind.  The  great 
usefulness  of  the  tree  is  in  its  leaves,  which, 
when  expanded,  are  of  a  beautiful  dark  green 
color.  Those  chiefly  used  are  cut  before  they 
spread  out,  and  have,  and  retain  for  ages,  a 
pale,  brownish,  yellow  color,  not  unlike  old 
parchment  :  some  of  them  are  so  large  as  to 
cover  fifteen   or   twenty   men.     The   shape  is 


TALIPOT    TREE USES.  77 

precisely  that  of  a  fan,  and,  like  that  ladies1 
artificial  cooler,  it  can  be  closed  or  expanded, 
and  with  almost  as  little  exertion.  It  is  in 
fact  used  as  a  fan  by  the  Cingalese  or  natives, 
and  is  at  the  same  time  their  only  parasol,  to 
defend  them  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the 
sun,  or  umbrella,  to  protect  them  from  the 
heavy  rain  ;  in  addition  to  which  uses,  it  forms 
their  only  tent  when  in  the  field,  and,  cut  up 
into  strips,  it  serves  them  to  write  upon  instead 
of  paper.  The  leaf  is  so  light  that  an  entire 
one  can  be  carried  in  the  hand  ;  but  it  is  always 
reduced  for  the  sake  of  convenience.  What- 
ever quantity  of  water  may  fall  upon  the  leaf, 
it  imbibes  no  humidity,  remaining  light  and 
dry  as  ever. 

The  British  troops,  in  their  campaign,  in  the 
jungles,  against  the  Cingalese,  in  1817-18, 
found,  to  their  cost,  how  excellent  a  preserva- 
tive it  was  against  wet  and  damp.  The  enemy's 
musket  men  were  each  furnished  with  a  tali- 
pot leaf,  by  means  of  which  they  always  kept 
their  powder  and  arms  perfectly  dry,  and  could 
fire  upon  the  invading  forces  ;  whilst  frequently 
the  British  muskets,  which  had  no  such  protec- 
tion, were  rendered  useless  by  the  heavy  rains, 
and  the  moisture  of  the  woods  and  thickets, 
7* 


78  TALIPOT    TREE USES. 

and  the   British  were  consequently  unable  to 
return  the  fire  of  the  natives. 

When  used  in  lieu  of  paper,  they  are  cut 
into  strips,  soaked  for  a  short  time  in  boiling 
water,  and  rubbed  backwards  and  forwards 
over  a  smooth  piece  of  wood,  to  make  them 
pliable,  and  then  carefully  dried. 

They  write  or  engrave  their  letters  upon 
them  with  a  sharp  pointed  instrument,  and 
then  rub  them  over  with  a  dark-colored  sub- 
stance, which,  only  remaining  on  the  parts 
so  etched  or  scratched,  gives  the  characters 
greater  relief,  and  makes  them  more  easy  to 
read.  The  coloring  matter  is  rendered  liquid 
by  being  mixed  with  cocoa-nut  oil,  and  when 
dry  is  not  easily  effaced. 

A  Cingalese  book  is  a  bundle  of  these  strips 
tied  up  together. 

As  even  the  lawyers  and  the  learned  in  this 
country  are  very  deficient  in  chronological 
knowledge,  great  confusion  occurs  as  to  dates, 
and  it  is  very  common  to  see  a  Cingalese 
judge  attempting  to  ascertain  the  antiquity  of 
a  document,  produced  in  court,  by  smelling  or 
cutting  it. 

Besides  all  the  uses  above  described,  the 
Cingalese  employ  the   talipot  leaf  extensively 


THE    CINGALESE ANIMALS.  79 

in  thatching  their  houses.  They  also  manufac- 
ture hats  from  it :  these  hats  are  made  with 
brims  as  broad  as  an  outstretched  umbrella, 
and  are  chiefly  worn  by  women  nursing,  to 
defend  them  and  their  infants  from  the  heat. 

The  descendants  of  the  ancient  inhabitants 
are  called  Cingalese,  who,  though  idolaters, 
value  themselves  upon  maintaining  their  an- 
cient laws  and  customs.  They  are  in  general 
a  sober,  inoffensive  people,  and  are  mingled 
with  Moors,  Malabars,  Portuguese,  and  Dutch. 
They  are  divided  into  several  tribes,  from  the 
nobleman  to  the  maker  of  mats,  and  all  the 
children  follow  the  same  occupation  as  their 
fathers  ;  nor  is  it  lawful  to  marry  into  any 
other  tribe.  They  are  pagans ;  and  though 
they  acknowledge  a  supreme  God,  they  wor- 
ship none  but  the  inferior  sort,  and  among 
these  they  reckon  the  sun  and  the  moon. 

Common  deer  are  found  in  this  island  in 
great  abundance,  but  the  horned  cattle  are 
very  small  and  very  scarce  ;  and  the  woods  and 
jungles,  are  infested  by  that  most  terrible  of 
all  ravenous  beasts,  the  tiger. 

I  have  to  refer  my  readers  to  a  perusal  of 
Buffon's  Natural  History,  for  an  accurate  de- 
scription of  the  last-named  beast  of  prey,  as  it 


80  A    VERY  FEELING    REMARK. 

would  be  entirely  out  of  my  power  so  to  do, 
as  I  never  had  the  opportunity  of  meeting  one 
face  to  face,  to  give  him  a  friendly  shake  of 
the  paw,  according  to  the  rules  of  politeness 
laid  down  by  Lord  Chesterfield ;  and  can  posi- 
tively assure  the  reader,  that  I  am  not  in  the 
least  anxious  to  have  my  knowledge  (trifling 
as  it  may  be)  of  the  general  politesse  of  the 
Jbeau  monde  put  to  such  an  unpleasant  test. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Is  this  a  dagger  which  I  see  before  me, 
The  handle  toward  my  hand?    Come,  let  me  clutch  thee. 

Macbeth. 

And  withered  murder 
Alarumed  by  his  sentinel,  the  wolf, 
Whose  howl 's  his  watch,  thus  with  his  stealthy  pace, 
Towards  his  design,  moves  like  a  ghost. 

Idem. 

Account  of  Columbo — Adam's  Peak — Descriptions  of,  by 
a  traveller  —  Governor's  Visit — Unwelcome  News — 
Murder  and  Piracy  on  the  coast^of  Sumatra — Account 
of  the  same. 

Columbo,  the  modern  capital  of  Ceylon,  off 
which  our  ships  anchored,  is  situated  on  the 
southwest  coast :  the  plan  of  the  city  is  pretty 
regular.  The  two  principal  streets  extend  the 
whole   length   of   the   town,   intersecting  each 

O  7  O 

other,  at  right  angles,  near  the  centre. 

The  fort  is  defended  by  three  hundred  pieces 
of  artillery  :  it  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  cir- 
cumference, and  nearly  encompassed  by  the 
sea. 

From  the  coolness  and  salubrity  of  its  situa- 

m 


82  adam's  peak. 

tion,  it  forms  a  more  comfortable  residence 
than  perhaps  any  other  situation  in  India. 

The  government  house  stands  on  the  north 
side  of  the  fort,  fronting  the  sea  :  it  is  a  hand- 
some building,  consisting  of  two  stories,  with 
two  wings  upon  one  floor  :  it  lias  an  elegant 
portico,  leading  into  a  lofty  and  capacious  hall. 
About  a  mile  apart  from  it  stands  the  Portu- 
guese church,  for  the  use  of  those  inhabitants 
who  belong  to  the  Romish  communion. 

Columbo  is  by  far  the  most  eligible  place  of 
residence  in  Ceylon  ;  for,  besides  the  superiority 
of  climate,  peculiar  to  its  locality,  there  is  an 
agreeable  mixture  of  society,  such  as  cannot 
be  enjoyed  in  the  more  confined  circles  of  the 
smaller  stations. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  at  Columbo,  one 
of  the  crew,  named  Edward  Marsh,  (seaman,) 
met  with  an  unfortunate  accident,  getting  his 
right  hand  jammed  between  a  cask  of  water, 
and  the  coverings  of  the  hatch.  He  was  obliged 
to  undergo  the  painful  operation  of  amputa. 
tion,  by  which  he  was  deprived  of  two  of  his 
fingers  ;  but,  from  the  skilful  treatment  which 
he  received,  he  was  in  the  course  of  a  few 
days  enabled  to  resume  his  duties. 

In  the  island  of  Ceylon,  there  is  an  amazing 
high  mountain,  called   Adam's  Peak,  which  is 


adam's  peak.  83 

plainly  discernible  many  leagues  off.  As  there 
are  various  incidents  connected  with  this  stu- 
pendous mountain,  I  herewith  subjoin  a  few  of 
its  peculiarities,  and  attendant  circumstances, 
for  the  amusement  and  information  of  my 
readers. 

It  is  the  highest  mountain  on  the  island,  and 
has  always  been  considered  as  a  holy  mount  — 
a  pilgrimage  to  which,  the  Cingalese  and  others 
think  to  be  highly  meritorious  and  beneficial. 
The  returning  pilgrims,  as  an  act  of  charity, 
always  dispose  of  their  walking  staffs  on  the 
face  of  the  mountain,  so  as  to  assist  future 
travellers  in  their  ascent. 

Its  elevation  is  6S00  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  ;  the  granatic  peak  or  cone  resting  upon 
a  hioh  mountain,  belonging  to  the  chain  which 
forms  the  upper  rampart  of  the  country.  It  is 
situated  sixty  miles  south  of  Columbo  :  the 
road  from  the  base  of  the  summit,  (as  de- 
scribed by  a  traveller,)  is  rugged  in  the  ex- 
treme, being  covered  with  fragments  of  rocks 
and  iron  stone.  It  presents  obstacles  to  the 
traveller,  which  not  only  require  great  patience 
and  perseverance  to  surmount,  but  likewise  a 
great  resolution,  endurance,  and  physical  hard- 
ihood. 

It  is  of  a  conical  shape,  like   the   Peak   of 


84  adam's  peak. 

Teneriffe,  and  is  visible  at  sea,  on  the  south- 
west coast,  at  a  distance  of  fifty  leagues.  It 
is  visited  almost  daily,  by  parties  of  pilgrims, 
of  all  ages  ;  some  mere  children,  and  others 
decrepit  from  old  age.  They  here  present 
their  offerings,  consisting  of  various  articles, 
even  to  a  lock  of  the  hair,  or  a  portion  of  the 
beard.  At  the  conclusion  of  this  religious 
ceremony,  some  passages  are  chanted  from  a 
small  book,  formed  of  palm  leaves ;  men, 
women,  and  children,  joining  in  a  loud  chorus 
of  responses,  at  the  termination  of  each  pas- 
sage. 

These  passages  consist  of  their  five  com- 
mandments, which  are  all  prohibitory  and  for- 
bid,—  1.  Killing  any  living  creature;  2.  Steal- 
ing ;  3.  Committing  adultery  ;  4.  Uttering  a 
falsehood  ;  5.  Drinking  intoxicating  liquors. 

These  ceremonies  are  mostly  finished  in  less 
than  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  when  the  pilgrims 
retire,  and  make  room  for  the  next  party  in 
turn. 

I  shall  conclude  the  account  of  the  above,  in 
the  words  of  one  who,  from  motives  of  curiosi- 
ty, had  passed  the  preceding  night  on  the  spot. 

He  says,  a  little  before  sunrise,  the  sky, 
towards  the  east,  had  a  bright,  flame  color, 
indicative  of  the  approach  of  day.     The  sun 


governor's  visit.  85 

burst  forth  at  last,  in  all  his  glory,  reminding 

him   of  the   words   of  a  celebrated   poet,  who 

thus  expresses   himself,  at  beholding  the  rising 

sun  : 

"  For  thee  Cassiope  her  chair  withdraws  ; 
For  thee  the  bear  retracts  his  shaggy  paws: 
High  o'er  the  north  thy  golden  orb  doth  roll, 
And  blaze  eternal  round  the  wandering  pole." 

He  proceeds  to  say,  that  at  this  time  not  a 
cloud  intervened  to  dim  the  splendor  of  the 
scene.  The  sun,  shining  upon  the  space 
where  the  view  terminated  at  the  bottom  of  the 
mountain,  increased  the  sublimity  of  the  pros- 
pect. And,  he  observes,  it  was  impossible  to 
describe  the  terrific  grandeur  of  the  scene; 
but,  indeed,  the  prospect  from  the  height  of 
the  mount  was  so  frightful,  that  he  believes  it 
was  rarely  contemplated  with  due  composure. 

During  our  stay  in  Columbo,  we  were,  in 
addition  to  numerous  other  visiters,  honored 
by  a  visit  from  the  governor  of  the  island,  who 
came  on  board,  bringing  with  him  part  of  his 
family,  and  several  of  his  retinue,  consisting 
principally  of  British  military  officers.  He 
also  had  in  attendance,  a  variety  of  his  body- 
servants  ;  one  of  the  latter,  I  could  but  par- 
ticularly notice,  as  his  size,  dress,  and  de- 
meanor reminded  me  so  much  of  Punch,  as  I 
8 


86  MURDEK    AND    PIRACY. 

once  saw  it  enacted  at  one  of  our  theatres  at 
home,  by  the  celebrated  Mons.  Mazurier,  who, 
by  his  foolery  and  antics,  got  such  an  ascend- 
ancy in  the  minds  of  the  public  at  that  time. 

We  also  received,  through  the  medium  of  a 
Penang  paper, the  unpleasant  intelligence  of  a 
most  cruel  murder  and  piracy,  which  had  been 
perpetrated  by  the  Malays  on  the  west  coast 
of  Sumatra,  on  board  of  an  American  bark, 
called  the  Eclipse.  The  following  are  the 
particulars,  as  copied  verbatim  from  that  jour- 
nal, with  the  editorial  remarks  thereon  : 

To  the  Consular  Agent  for  the  United  States  of 
America,  Prince  of  Wales  Island: 

Sir, — Agreeable  to  your  request,  with  the 
greatest  pleasure  I  send  you  an  official  narra- 
tion of  the  murder  of  Capt.  Wilkins,  of  the 
American  ship  Eclipse. 

From  the  24th  of  June,  the  day  of  my  arri- 
val at  Tullah  Pow  and  Muckie,  and  also  the 
day  I  spoke  with  the  Eclipse,  I  knew  very 
little  about  her  operations.  I  was  informed 
that  Capt.  W.  was  many  days  trading  at  a 
village  called  Trabanjan,  a  distance  of  about 
twelve  miles  from  Muckie. 

On  the  night  of  the  26th  of  August,  at  about 
2  o'clock,  a  man  from  a  jolly-boat  hailed  the 


MURDER    AND    PIRACY.  87 

ship  in  French,  claiming  hospitality,  saying 
that  they  were  from  the  bark  Eclipse,  that  the 
captain  had  been  murdered  by  the  Malays, 
and  the  second  mate,  who  was  then  in  the 
boat,  severely  wounded  in  the  loins,  and  two 
sailors,  wounded  in  several  parts  of  the  body, 
with  great  difficulty  got  on  board. 

After  dressing  their  wounds,  they  communi- 
cated to  me  the  following  narrative  : 

On  the  evening  of  the  26th  of  August,  1838, 
two  samprams,  with  twelve  men  in  each,  hav- 
ing a  small  quantity  of  pepper,  came  alongside 
the  ship,  and  offered  it  for  sale,  as  it  frequently 
happens.  The  second  mate,  whose  watch  it 
was  on  deck,  being  particularly  acquainted 
with  Labbey  Ousso  Juritoolis,  of  Muckie,  and 
knowing  that  he  had  assisted  Capt.  W.  in  his 
former  voyages,  thought  it  was  no  harm  to 
allow  him  and  his  people  to  come  on  board,  as 
they  were  very  good  friends,  notwithstanding  it 
was  then  night  time.  When  they  came  up,  he 
told  them  the  captain  was  then  asleep,  and  had 
been  indisposed  for  several  days,  and  that  they 
would  be  obliged  to  wait  until  he  awoke,  to 
weigh  the  pepper  and  settle  the  price.  He 
also  told  them  the  custom  of  the  ship  was,  by 
way  of  precaution,  to  ask  them  for  their 
weapons,  which  they  without  any  objection  im- 


88  MURDER    AND    PIRACY. 

mediately  gave  up,  and  he  got  them  secured 
under  lock  and  key.  After  this,  they  feigned 
to  sleep  on  various  parts  of  the  deck,  awaiting 
the  approach  of  the  captain,  who  came  up 
about  10  o'clock,  when  they  asked  him  to 
weigh  the  pepper.  Labbey  Ousso,  feigning 
friendship  with  the  captain,  complained  of  the 
distrust  of  the  second  mate,  and  requested  to 
have  his  own  and  his  friends'  daggers  given 
back  to  them,  which  was  done.  From  his  long 
acquaintance  with  the  man,  the  captain  did 
not  think  he  was  doing  an  act  of  imprudence 
in  giving  them  their  daggers. 

During  this  time,  the  second  mate  and  two  of 
the  sailors,  were  busily  occupied  in  getting  ready 
the  scales,  &c.  for  weighing  the  pepper  that  was 
on  deck.  As  the  second  draft  was  weighing, 
the  captain,  who  was  seated  by  a  light  near 
the  binacle,  cried  out,  "  I  am  stabbed  ! '  The 
second  mate,  who  was  then  stooping  to  take 
up  the  bags,  was  stabbed  in  the  loins  ;  at  the 
same  time,  the  apprentice  boy,  who  was  stand- 
ing near  the  captain,  was  killed  by  the  same 
hand  which  had  slain  his  commander. 

The  second  mate  jumped  overboard  notwith- 
standing his  wound,  and  part  of  the  crew  fol- 
lowed his  example  ;  the  remainder  ran  aloft. 
The  second  mate,  and  those  who  followed  him 


MURDER    AND    PIRACY.  89 

afterwards  returned  to  the  ship,  by  means  of 
some  ropes  which  were  hanging  from  the  quar- 
ter-deck, and  went  up  aloft  to  join  the  others, 
several  of  whom  were  wounded. 

The  murderers,  in  the  mean  time,  were  look- 
ing out  for  other  victims,  and  found  the  cook 
below  in  irons  for  insubordination.  He  bested 
for  his  life,  promising  to  show  them  the  place 
where  the  money  and  opium  was  deposited. 
They  immediately  broke  his  fetters  and  set 
him  free,  and  took  four  cases  of  opium,  and 
$18,000  in  specie,  the  contents  of  eighteen 
casks.  The  second  mate  and  four  sailors,  who 
were  on  board,  armed  a  boat,  and  came  to  us, 
leaving  the  ship  without  any  guardian  to  take 
care  of  her.  The  carpenter  and  two  sailors 
went  on  shore  to  join  the  chief  mate  and  four 
sailors,  who  were  on  shore  for  the  purpose  of 
procuring  pepper. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  inst.  we  unani- 
mously  agreed  that  the  sailors  should  return  to 
their  ship  and  hoist  the  signal  of  distress  ;  to 
call  the  chief  mate,  and  if  he  did  not  come,  to 
accompany  it  with  firing,  which  was  done,  on 
their  arrival  on  board. 

I   was   afterwards    informed,    that    the    ship 
Eclipse,  under  the  command  of  the  chief  mate, 
sailed  for  Muckie,  to  take  one  of  the    chiefs  of 
8* 


90  MURDER    AND    PIRACY. 

that  place  to  Soosoo,  to  recover  his  losses  and 
part  of  the  opium,  which  the  rajah  of  that 
place  got  from  the  robbers  :  these  he  refused 
to  give  up.  This  statement  is  all  that  I  know, 
and  which  I  give  as  authentic. 

(Signed,)  A.  Van  Iseghem. 

To  J.  Revelly,  Consular  Agent  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  Prince  of  Wales  Island. 

It  appears  that  on  the  receipt  of  the  above 
melancholy  intelligence,  the  American  consul 
had  asked  the  assistance  of  the  proper  authori- 
ties at  Penang  to  interfere  for  the  benefit  of 
the  above  ship,  which  would  have  been  imme- 
diately granted,  by  sending  a  British  man  of 
war  to  the  scene  of  the  outrages,  but  that  pre- 
vious arrangements  rendered  it  utterly  impos- 
sible. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

My  flag  is  dancing  on  the  skies  ; 
My  sails  are  on  the  breeze ; 
And  the  wild  bird  screams  exultingly, 
As  we  bound  along  the  seas. 

Anonymous. 

Feelings  of  the  Crew — Leave  Columbo — Speak  two 
Ships — Make  Sumatra — An  unseen  Enemy — Origin  of 
Small-pox — Measures  adopted  for  prevention — Death — 
The  Shark — A  titbit — Come  to  anchor'off  Annallaboo 
— Leave  again — Arrive  at  GUiallah  Battoo — Poadam, 
the  Malay  Chief — The  Rajah's  conduct — The  Eng- 
lish Brig. 

The  deed  of  atrocity  just  related  could  not 
be  heard  in  silence,  much  more  tolerated,  by 
the  hardy  sons  of  the  ocean,  who  manned  our 
frigate,  and  who  breathed  forth  nothing  but 
vows  of  retributive  vengeance  on  the  heads  of 
these  desperate  marauders,  on  the  melancholy 
recital  of  the  same,  looking  forward  with  the 
most  intense  anxiety  for  the  opportunity  to 
arrive,  to  carry  their  intentions  into  effect,  as  a 
tribute  to  the  memory  of  their  unfortunate 
countrymen. 


92  FEELINGS    OF  THE    CREW. 

A  convincing  proof  of  their  feelings  could 
not  be  more  uniformly  displayed,  than  when 
the  shrill  pipes  of  the  boatswain  and  his  mates, 
on  the  1st  of  December,  called  all  hands  to  up 
anchor,  which  was  performed  with  the  greatest 
despatch,  leaving  the  island  of  Ceylon,  accom- 
panied by  our  consort,  the  John  Adams,  and 
bound  to  the  spot  where  this  outrage  upon  all 
civilized  laws  had  been  enacted. 

The  principal  part  of  the  time  during  the 
passage,  was  engrossed  in  exercising  the  crew 
at  the  great  guns,  as  also  the  small  arms,  con- 
sisting of  the  musket,  pike,  and  pistol :  they 
were  divided  into  separate  divisions,  and  de- 
nominated the  musketeers,  and  pike  and  pis- 
tol men.  These  necessary  exercises  were 
attended  to  with  the  most  rigid  attention,  every 
man  feeling  anxious  to  obtain  a  knowledge 
of  the  same,  as  it  was  deemed  essentially 
necessary,  being  in  full  expectation  of  having 
a  bit  of  a  brush  with  these  Malayan  despera- 
does, on  our  arrival. 

Every  brave  heart  was  buoyant  with  anxious 
expectation,  and  every  man  secretly  wished 
to  be  in  the  expected  affray.  Many,  in  fact, 
whose  duties  would  confine  them  to  the  ship, 
volunteered  their  services,  proving  that  they 
were  most  willing  to  risk  their  lives   in   the 


S3IALL-P0X.  93 

cause  of  humanity  and  justice.  The  star- 
spangled  banner,  waving  over  their  heads,  in- 
spired them  with  new  ardor  to  serve  their  coun- 
try, even  amid  dangers,  and  brought  to  their 
remembrance  the  perils  and  sacrifices  of  their 
forefathers,  who  shed  their  blood  under  the 
same  for  the  great  and  glorious  cause  of  liberty 
and  independence. 

During  our  passage,  we  spoke  two  ships, 
— one  from  Canton,  bound  to  Bombay,  the  other 
a  French  vessel,  out  one  hundred  days  from 
Bordeaux,  and  then  proceeding  to  Calcutta. 
The  day  after  we  spoke  the  latter,  we  discovered 
high  land  on  the  coast  of  Sumatra. 

At  this  particular  time,  glowing,  as  our  feel- 
ings were,  at  the  idea  of  taking  satisfaction  on 
the  desperadoes  of  this  extensive  island,  who 
live  on  the  sea-coast,  these  justifiable  feelings 
were  considerably  damped  at  the  approach  of 
an  enemy,  who  came  crawling  upon  us  with  all 
its  ravaging  terrors,  to  destroy  us  with  its 
joathsome  breath. 

That  direful  and  so  much  to  be  dreaded 
disorder,  the  small-pox,  made  its  unwelcome 
appearance  in  the  ship  :  the  bare  idea  alone 
of  this  malady,  was  of  itself  sufficient  to 
alarm ;  more  especially  when  its  malignant 
operations    are    confined   to    a   limited   space, 


94  SMALL-POX. 

amongst  a  small  community  of  individuals,  con- 
fined as  it  were  to  one  spot,  and  who,  following 
their  natural  calling  on  the  surface  of  the  deep, 
have  no  possible  opportunity  afforded  them  of 
absentia?  themselves  from  the  scene  of  conta- 
gion  like  a  landsman. 

Of  the  numerous  diseases  to  which  mankind 
are  exposed,  the  class  denominated  epidemic 
or  spreading  diseases  are  attended  with  the 
most  alarming  interest. 

In  the  traditions  of  the  people  of  China  and 
Hindostan,  the  small-pox  was  enumerated  as 
one  of  their  common  disorders  ;  and  in  some 
of  their  earliest  books,  devoted  to  religion  and 
philosophy,  descriptions  of  it  have  been  found 
to  exist.  Therefore  China  or  Hindostan  must 
be  considered  as  the  cradle  of  the  small-pox. 
I  have  no  means,  however,  of  ascertaining  in 
which  of  the  two  it  first  appeared,  or  of  offer- 
ing a  rational  conjecture  to  explain  the  man- 
ner of  its  first  production,  beyond  the  fact  that 
those  countries  have,  from  the  most  remote 
ages,  swarmed  with  inhabitants,  and  been  sub- 
ject to  dreadful  inroads  of  famine, — circum- 
stances of  themselves  eminently  favorable  to 
the  generation  of  pestilence. 

According  to  the   Chinese  and  Brahminical 
authorities,  there  is  written   evidence  to  show 


SMALL-POX.  95 

that  small-pox  had  been  established  in  their 
respective  countries,  during  a  period  of  three 
thousand  years  and  upwards. 

The  unfortunate  victim  of  an  attack  from 
this  pestilential  disorder  is  seen  laboring  under 
a  fever  with  the  most  putrid  symptoms :  he  is 
at  the  same  time  covered  with  pustules,  which 
not  unfrequently  run  together,  and  ultimately 
change  the  whole  surface  of  his  body  into  one 
continued  sore,  that  renders  his  features  undis- 
tinguishable  to  his  dearest  friends,  and  con- 
verts him  into  an  object  of  disgust  to  their 
senses.  Nor  are  the  immediate  sufferings  and 
danger  of  death  the  onlv  misfortunes  attend- 
ant  on  small-pox ;  for,  in  case  the  patient 
finally  survives  the  attack,  it  is  often  at  the 
sacrifice  of  every  thing  deemed  desirable  in 
personal  appearance.  Beauty  may  be  trans- 
formed into  deformity,  and,  what  is  of  far 
greater  importance,  by  the  loss  of  sight  the 
patient  may  be  condemned  to  pass  the  re- 
mainder of  his  life  in  total  darkness. 

I  consider  it  a  duty  I  owe  my  own  feelings, 
as  well  as  an  act  of  justice  due  to  our  com- 
mander, the  officers,  and  those  gentlemen  who 
conducted  the  medical  department,  to  assert, 
that  every  precaution  within  the  scope  of 
human    knowledge    was    put    into  full    force 


96  DEATH. 

to  stop  the  farther  progress  of  this  woful 
distemper.  Those  persons  who  had  never 
been  afflicted  with  it,  or  been  vaccinated  as 
a  preventive,  underwent  inoculation.  There 
was  also  an  appropriate  place  set  apart  on 
the  gun-deck,  screened  around,  for  the  re- 
ception of  those  who  were  so  unfortunate  as 
to  catch  the  infection,  allowing  none  of  the 
ship's  company  to  have  any  intercourse  what- 
ever with  those  suffering  under  its  baneful 
influence,  and  every  attention  which  medical 
skill  could  devise  was  put  into  full  effect  for 
their  mutual  comfort  and  benefit. 

The  first  individual  who  fell  a  victim  to  this 
malignant  disorder  was  a  man  named  Fred- 
erick McQuillon,  who  lingered  but  a  few  days, 
then  paying  the  awful  debt  of  nature,  and 
yielding  up  his  soul  to  his  Creator.  A  short 
time  afterwards,  the  remains  of  the  deceased, 
with  every  article  of  bedding,  &c.  were  com- 
mitted to  the  bosom  of  the  fathomless  deep. 

On  the  same  afternoon,  being  in  a  reflecting 
mood,  I  was  ruminating  on  the  uncertainty  of 
human  life,  with  the  various  vicissitudes  at- 
tending it — these  thoughts  arising  from  the 
death  of  the  above  person,  who,  but  a  few  days 
before,  was  enjoying  the  best  of  health — when 
I   was   suddenly  aroused   from  my   revery,  by 


THE    SHARK.  97 

an  unusual  commotion  on  the  forecastle  or  fore 
part  of  the  spar-deck,  and  surmising  it  might 
proceed  from  some  cause  which  would  tend  to 
enliven  nay  spirits,  I  bent  my  way  towards  the 
scene  from  whence  the  noise  proceeded,  and 
discovered  it  originated  from  some  of  the  men 
having;  hooked  a  shark,  and  then  hauling  him 
on  board,  which  was  soon  effected,  though  not 
without  many  struggles  on  his  part  to  liberate 
himself  from  their  hands.  On  beholding  this 
voracious  monster  of  the  deep  extended  on  the 
deck,  it  forcibly  recalled  to  my  mind  the  lines 
of  Byron,  who  says  : 

"  Lured  by  the  scent  of  rank  disease  and  death, 
Behold  the  direful  shark ;  who,  rushing, 
Cats  the  briny  flood,  swift  as  the  gale  can 
Bear  the  ship  along." 

It  appeared  he  had  been  gamboling  about, 
and  displaying  his  sportive  tricks  on  the  sur- 
face of  his  native  element  for  some  time,  but, 
being  enticed  by  the  appearance  of  a  piece  of 
pork,  with  which  a  book  was  well  baited,  he 
made  a  sudden  spring  at  the  same  to  satisfy 
the  cravings  of  nature,  when, — O  woful  mis- 
hap! —  the  concealed  and  rugged  barb  of  the 
hook  stuck  fast  in  his  gormandizing  throat,  to 
punish  him  for  his  temerity  ;  and  thus  he  was 

hauled   on  board   amidst  the   exclamations  of 
9 


98  ANCHOR    OFF    ANNALLABOO. 

the  sailors.     After  floundering  about  for  some 
time,  and  trying  to  break  somebody's  legs  with 
its  tail, — a  part  in   which  they  are   extremely 
powerful — an   end   was  put  to  its  existence  by 
chopping  the    same    with    an   axe, — the  usual 
method   adopted :    it    was    then    put    into   the 
hands  of  some  one  who   volunteered  their  ser- 
vices   on    this    particular    occasion,    and    who 
acted  in  the  capacity  of  cleaner  and  cook,  and, 
when   dressed,  it  was  offered  up  as  an  uncom- 
mon treat   to   the  masticating  organs  of  those 
who  had   a   relish   for   such  a  novel  and  very 
epicurean  dish.     One  of  the  men  asking  me  on 
the   following   day   if  I   had  tasted  it,  on  my 
replying  in  the  negative,  exclaimed,  that  I  had 
lost  a  treat,  for  a  slice  of  shark,  well  seasoned 
and  cooked,   would   put    a   veal    cutlet  to  the 
blush,  and  make   a   goose,   half  roasted,  jump 
clean  off  the  spit.     I  made  no  reply,  but  at  the 
same  time  thought  to  myself  of  the  old  adage, 
when  a  school-boy  of  "  De  gustibus  non,"  &c. 
On   the    20th   inst.    having   discovered    two 
brigs   at    anchor    off    Annallaboo,     displaying 
English    colors,    we    bore  up    for   them,    and 
came  to  an  anchor.     A  boat  being  despatched 
to  endeavor  to   obtain  any  information  which 
might  further    our    views,  with  respect  to  the 
natives  on  the  coast,  the  officer  in  command  of 


ARRIVE  AT  QUALLAH  BATTOO.        99 

the  boat  having  executed  his  commission,  re- 
turned to  the  ship. 

On  the  following  morning  we  got  under  way 
again,  and  proceeded  onwards  to  our  destined 
port.  Next  day,  being  abreast  of  Quallah 
Battoo,  we  stood  in  for  the  anchorage.  At 
this  time,  a  canoe  from  the  shore  came  along1- 
side,  manned  by  three  Malays  ;  and  the  con- 
sternation depicted  on  their  countenances  can 
be  much  better  imagined  than  described,  when 
they  found  themselves  detained  as  prisoners, 
pro  tempore,  and  their  canoe  very  politely 
passed  astern  and  made  fast. 

We  came  to  an  anchor  about  3,  P.  M.  but 
no  friendly  salute  was  fired  as  a  token  of  amity 
and  good  fellowship,  as  in  the  ports  we  had 
been  to  before.  Every  duty  was  performed 
with  the  most  perfect  tranquillity,  unattended 
with  the  usual  bustle  which  generally  takes 
place  on  the  arrival  of  a  ship  in  port;  and  we 
could  not  refrain  from  regarding  the  place 
with  secret  detestation,  arising  from  its  beino- 
the  receptacle  of  such  unprincipled  characters. 
On  the  following  morning,  we  shifted  our 
berth,  weighing  our  anchor,  and  standing  closer 
in  shore,  where  we  brought  up  again  :  our  con- 
sort, the  John  Adams,  following  our  example, 
brought  up  as  close  in  shore  as  she  could  with 
safety. 


100  THE    RAJAH'S    CONDUCT. 

At  this  time,  one  of  the  Malay  chiefs,  named 
Poadam,  came  on  board,  with  several  of  his 
tribe,  and  was  received  with  the  utmost  urban- 
ity and  kindness,  as  he  was  generally  known 
to  be  friendly,  especially  on  a  former  occasion, 
when  the  United  States  frigate  Potomac  was 
laying  here,  under  the  command  of  Com.  J. 
Downes,  and  when  the  forts  were  destroyed  by 
the  crew  of  that  ship.  Through  the  medium 
of  his  information,  we  were  given  to  under- 
stand that  one  of  the  principal  murderers  con- 
cerned in  the  late  affair  of  the  ship  Eclipse, 
was  ashore  here  and  under  the  immediate  pro- 
tection of  the  rajah  of  the  place. 

A  boat  was  immediately  despatched  away 
with  several  of  our  officers,  who,  as  well  as 
the  boat's  crew,  were  well  armed,  to  have  com- 
munication with  the  rajah  on  the  subject,  if 
possible.  On  the  boat  Hearing  the  shore,  it 
was  discovered  that  the  beach  was  lined  with 
armed  men,  which  naturally  led  our  party  to 
believe  that  the  natives  were  collected  at  this 
particular  spot  for  the  purpose  of  opposing 
their  landing  ;  but  in  the  course  of  a  short 
time,  finding  they  did  not  show  any  direct 
mark  of  hostility,  the  party  landed  without 
any  opposition  whatever  on  the  part  of  the 
natives,  and  immediately  proceeded  to  execute 


THE    ENGLISH    BRIG.  101 

their  commission,  the  result  of  which  led  to  a 
promise,  on  the  part  of  the  rajah,  that  the  mur- 
derer should  be  delivered  up  on  the  ensuing 
morning, —  a  promise  which  he  did  not  fulfil, 
nor  had  he  any  intention  of  doing  so  ;  for,  on  a 
second  application  being  made  to  him,  his  ex- 
cuses were  founded  on  prevarication,  stating 
that  the  man  had  escaped,  but  that  a  certain 
number  of  his  tribe  were  on  the  search  for  him. 

Finding,  by  these  contradictory  statements, 
that  he  did  not  wish  to  come  to  terms  of  recon- 
ciliation, or  a  settlement  of  the  affair  in  anv 
shape  whatever  no  farther  communication  was 
held  upon  the  subject,  as  it  was  thought  advisa- 
ble to  give  them  a  few  iron  arguments  by  way 
of  bringing  them  to  reason. 

At  this  crisis  of  affairs  between  us,  an  Eng- 
lish brig  arrived  in  the  offing,  and  came  to  an 
anchor.  We  despatched  a  boat  alongside,  and 
politely  desired  the  captain  to  have  no  inter- 
course with  the  shore,  making  him  acquainted 
with  the  nature  of  our  grievances  ;  and  this 
requisition  on  our  part  was  strictly  complied 
with  by  him. 

On  Christmas  day, — a  day  which   recalls  to 

mind  the  origin  of  the  same  as  bavin g  given 

birth   to   the   divine    Saviour  of  mankind,  who 

was  all  peace  and  love, — on  this  particular  day 

9* 


102  CHRISTMAS    DAY. 

we  were  obliged  to  act  directly  opposite  by 
commencing  hostilities  on  the  natives,  by  en- 
deavoring t©  destroy  their  forts,  the  destruction 
of  which  would  open  their  eyes  to  a  sense  of 
their  error.  In  the  following  chapter  I  have 
given  a  short  account  of  our  proceedings  on 
this  occasion. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Our  insulted  country  bids  us  join  to  throw 
Avenging  thunders  on  this  our  common  foe. 
Let  anger  scorn  the  rancorous  debate, 
The  low  and  little  jars  of  private  hate, 
And  nobly  sacrifice  each  selfish  aim 
On  the  bright  altar  of  Columbia's  fame. 

Author. 

Cannonade  Quallah  Battoo — Come  to  terms — Wounded 
Malay — Seize  several  Proas — Account  of  Sumatra — 
Religion,  Customs,  &c. — The  Cassia  Tree  —  Wild 
Beasts — Leave  GUiallah  Battoo — Anchor  at  Muckie — 
The  tug  of  War — Cannonade  Muckie — Land  the 
Crew — Destroy  the  Town — The  Jack  in  the  Box — 
Lawful  plunder — Leave  Muckie  for  Soosoo— A  Death 
and  Burial. 

The  crew  were  actively  employed  in  prepar- 
ing the  ship  for  action,  and  their  alacrity  was 
creditable  and  praiseworthy  in  the  extreme. 
The  starboard  broadside  of  the  ship  was  sprung 
upon  the  town  ;  the  guns  were  cast  loose,  and 
at  3,  P.  M.  we  commenced  firing  upon  the 
forts,  which  were  partially  obscured  by  trees ; 
the  John  Adams,  who  was  closer  in  shore, 
,also  doing  the  same.     Both   ships  kept  up  a 


104  WOUNDED    MALAY. 

brisk  fire  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour,  and 
did  not  cease  until  two  of  the  forts  had  been 
destroyed,  and  several  lives  lost  on  their  side, 
in  addition  to  the  damage  done  to  the  houses 
and  cattle,  which  was  considerable ;  but  its 
full  extent  was  not  known  to  us. 

Next  morning,  a  person  came  on  board, 
dressed  in  the  Malayan  costume,  attended  by 
some  of  his  tribe,  who,  I  was  afterwards 
informed,  claimed  kindred  with  the  rajah  of 
the  place,  and  who  had  been  deputed  by  that 
individual  to  visit  us  on  a  special  mission  to 
the  commander,  for  the  purpose  of  coming  to 
terms  of  reconciliation,  which  were  at  length 
adjusted  with  this  place.  We  had  a  longer 
reckoning  to  settle  with  the  town  of  Muckie, 
the  place  off  which  this  cruel  outrage  had  been 
committed.  The  captain  of  the  English  brig, 
(then  lying  in  the  offing,)  also  came  on  board, 
bringing  with  him  one  of  his  crew,  (a  Malay,) 
who  had  literally  shattered  his  hands  to  pieces, 
by  the  sudden  explosion  of  a  gun,  while  load- 
ing it  to  fire  a  feu  de  joie  in  honor  of  Christ- 
mas day. 

The  unfortunate  man  was  left  on  board  of 
our  ship,  after  undergoing  the  painful  opera- 
tion of  having  his  right  hand  amputated,  and 
was   treated  with  that  humane  and  Christian 


ACCOUNT    OF    SUMATRA.  105 

kindness  which  his  unfortunate  case  so  pecu- 
liarly demanded.  Several  proas  were  boarded 
occasionally  and  brought  alongside,  but  after- 
terwards  permitted  to  proceed  on  their  destina- 
tion, after  being  thoroughly  searched  to  see 
they  did  not  containarms  or  ammunition. 

The  extensive  island  of  Sumatra  is  the  most 
western  of  the  Sunda  Islands  :  its  general  direc- 
tion  is  nearly  northwest  and  southeast.  It  is 
about  900  miles  in  length,  and  but  from  100  to 
150  in  breadth.  It  is  surpassed  but  by  few 
islands  in  the  world  for  the  various  gifts  of 
nature.  A  chain  of  high  mountains  runs  through 
its  full  extent,  the  ranges  in  many  parts  being 
double  and  treble.  Their  altitude,  though  great, 
is  not  sufficient  to  occasion  their  being  covered 
with  snow  during  any  part  of  the  year.  Be- 
tween these  ridges  are  extensive  plains,  con- 
siderably elevated  above  the  surface  of  the 
maritime  lands  :  in  these  the  air  is  cool,  and 
from  this  advantage  they  are  deemed  the  most 
eligible  part  of  the  country,  are  best  inhabited, 
and  the  most  cleared  from  woods,  which,  in 
general,  throughout  Sumatra,  cover  both  hills 
and  valleys  with  an  eternal  shade. 

Here,  too,  are  found  many  large  and  beauti- 
ful lakes,  which  facilitate  much  the  communi- 
cation  between   the  different   parts.      Rain  is 


106  ACCOUNT    OF    SUMATRA. 

very  frequent  here,  sometimes  very  heavy,  and 
almost  always  attended  with  thunder  and  light- 
ning. Earthquakes  are  not  uncommon,  and 
there  are  several  volcanoes  on  the  island.  The 
interior  parts  are  governed  by  pagan  princes ; 
and  the  natural  products  of  Sumatra  are  pretty 
much  the  same  as  those  of  the  adjacent  islands. 
The  people  who  inhabit  the  coast  are  Malays, 
and  are  divided  into  various  tribes,  the  princi- 
pal of  which  is  termed  the  rejangs;  they  are 
below  the  middle  stature,  their  bulk  in  propor- 
tion, their  limbs  for  the  most  part  slight  but 
well-shaped,  and  particularly  small  at  the 
wrists  and  ankles,  and  upon  the  whole  grace- 
fully formed.  The  interior  parts  are  inhabited 
by  a  very  different  people  :  their  language  and 
character  differ  much  from  the  Malays,  the 
latter  using  the  Arabic  character.  They  have 
no  king,  but  live  in  villages  independently  gov- 
erned by  a  chief,  and  generally  at  variance 
with  each  other. 

Thev  fortifv  their  villages  very  strongly  with 
double  fences,  of  camphor  plank,  pointed,  and 
placed  with  their  points  projecting  outwards, 
which  are  concealed  by  the  grass,  but  which 
will  run  quite  through  a  man's  foot.  It  is  in 
this  country  that  most  of  the  cassia  sent  to 
Europe   is  produced.     The   cassia  tree  grows 


LEAVE  QUALLAH  BATTOO.         107 

to  fifty  or  sixty  feet  in  height,  with  a  stem 
ahout  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  beautiful  and 
regular  spreading  head.  Its  chief  trade  with 
other  nations  is  pepper,  which  grows  here  in 
great  abundance. 

The  wild  beasts  of  the  country  are  various, 
consisting  principally  of  tigers,  elephants,  rhi- 
noceroses, bears,  and  monkeys.  The  tigers 
prove  to  the  inhabitants,  both  in  journeys,  and 
even  in  their  domestic  occupations,  most  de- 
structive enemies.  The  size  and  strength  of 
the  species  which  prevail  in  this  island  is  pro- 
digious :  they  are  said  to  break,  with  a  stroke 
of  their  fore  paw,  the  leg  of  a  horse  or  buffalo, 
and  the  largest  prey  they  kill  is  without  diffi- 
culty easily  swallowed  by  them. 

On  the  28th  inst.  we  left  Quallah  Battoo, 
with  our  consort,  the  Johu  Adams,  and  pro- 
ceeded towards  Muckie,  off  which  place  we 
anchored  on  the  following,  morning.  As  we 
were  on  the  point  of  coming  to  an  anchor,  we 
discovered  a  sail,  and  on  sending  a  boat  along- 
side,  it  was  found  to  be  a  French  bark,  bound 
to  Penang.  We  also  displayed  our  colors  to  a 
strange  brig  which  got  underway  from  Muckie, 
and  stood  along  the  coast. 

On  the  30th,  we  hove  up  the  anchor  for 
the  purpose  of  standing  closer  in  shore,  and 
then  brought  up  again. 


108  CANNONADE    MUCKIE. 

At  10,  A.  M.  on  the  first  of  January,  1839, 
we  commenced  the  new  year,  and  hostilities  on 
the  desperate  inhabitants  of  this  place.  The 
starboard  broadside  of  the  ship  was  sprung 
upon  the  town,  and  shortly  afterward  music,  to 
coincide  with  our  resentment,  sounded  on  our 
ears  the  usual  notes  played  for  quarters. 

The  men  instinctively  rushed  to  their  guns, 
which  were  instantly  cast  loose,  and  every 
necessary  preparation  was  made  for  action. 

We  began  to  fire  upon  the  town  and  forts, 
and  kept  up  a  continual,  brisk,  and  well-di- 
rected fire  on  the  same,  of  round  shot  and 
stands  of  grape.  At  meridian  came  the  tug  of 
war  :  our  men,  to  the  number  of  350,  includ- 
ing the  marines,  all  well  armed  with  various 
weapons,  offensive  and  defensive,  left  the  ship 
for  the  shore,  by  the  boats,  in  the  following 
order,  under  the  command  of  the  officers  of 
the  respective  divisions  :  Launch,  1st  division; 
first  cutter  and  curricle,  2d  division  ;  barge  and 
fourth  cutter,  3d  division  ;  second  and  third 
cutters,  4th  division. 

Each  boat  was  provided  with  kedges  and 
grapnels,  also  moorings,  to  anchor  at  a  con- 
venient distance  from  the  shore,  and  the  crews 
of  each  boat  were  also  armed  with  the  means 
of  defence  :  each  boat  also  had  on  board  two 


commodore's  directions.  109 

petty  officers  to  assist  in  landing  and  taking  on 
board  the  expedition. 

Previous  to  the  boats  shoving  off  from  the 
ship,  our  commodore  addressed  the  crew,  and, 
in  words  which  do  him  the  highest  honor,  told 
them  to  allow  their  feelings  to  be  biased  by- 
mercy  and  humanity,  and,  above  all,  to  take 
particular  care  not  to  injure  any  woman  or 
child  in  any  shape  whatever.  It  reminded  me 
forcibly  of  Shakspeare's  words,  as  far  as  re- 
garded myself : 

What  a  man  dare  do, 
I  dare ; 

He  who  dares  do  more, 
Is  not  a  man  : 

for,  though  bearing  the  form  and  appearance  of 
a  man,  he  who  would  injure  a  helpless  'wo- 
man, or  innocent  offspring,  for  the  sake  of 
gratifying  his  resentful  feelings,  would  be  un- 
worthy of  the  name  of  one  of  the  lords  of  the 
creation,  and  should  be  used,  in  the  words  of 
the  song,  which  says, — 

Is  there  a  heart  that  never  loved, 

Or  felt  soft  woman's  sigh  ? 
Is  there  a  heart  can  mark,  unmoved, 

Dear  woman;s  tearful  eye  ? 

O,  bear  him  hence  to  some  solitary  cell, 
Or  to  some  distant  shore. 
10 


110  LANDING    OF    THE    CREW. 

Where  love  was  never  known  to  dwell, 
And  nought  but  savage  monsters  roar. 

The  commodore  having  wished  us  success  to 
our  enterprise,  the  boats  pulled  for  the  shore 
with  animation,  covered  by  a  slow  and  well-di- 
rected fire  from  the  starboard  batteries  of  both 
ships,  until  the  boats  had  reached  the  shore, 
and  their  respective  crews  landed  ;  from-  that 
time  tiring  only  at  intervals. 

On  landing  the  men,  the  boats  were  moored 
at  a  convenient  distance  from  the  shore,  and 
kept  close  together  for  self-preservation.  Our 
landing  was  effected  without  any  opposition  on 
the  part  of  the  natives,  who  had  absconded  and 
taken  to  their  recesses  for  their  own  preserva- 
tion, after  removing  their  valuables  and  other 
effects. 

We  were  at  this  time  joined  by  the  greater 
part  of  the  crew  belonging  to  the  John  Ad- 
ams, under  the  command  of  Captain  Thomas 
Wyman,  upon  whom  the  command  of  the  ex- 
pedition devolved.  The  Adams's  crew  were 
easily  distinguished  from  the  Columbia's,  by 
their  ornamental  head-dress,  (as  a  lady  would 
say,)  consisting  of  a  large  pasteboard  or  stiff 
canvass  cap,  something  in  the  shape  of  a  gren- 
adier's, with  the  name  of  their  ship  in  full,  giv- 


DESTROY    THE    TOWN.  Ill 

ing  them  a  most  formidable  appearance,  and 
which  thev  themselves  had  risked  for  this  es- 
pecial  occasion.  However,  to  proceed  with 
my  story,  we  did  not  remain  long  in  a  state  of 
inactivity,  but  marched  into  the  town,  and 
commenced  settino;  fire  to  the  same,  which  was 
speedily  in  one  general  conflagration.  At  the 
same  time  the  forts  were  leveled  with  the 
ground,  the  guns  spiked,  and  every  thing  de- 
stroved  which  was  deemed  of  value  to  the  na- 
tives. 

We  met  with  no  obstacle,  whatever,  to  im- 
pede us  in  the  work  of  destruction,  which  was 
carried  on  to  its  fullest  extent ;  the  town  being 
burnt  to  the  ground,  leaving  nought  but  a  mass 
of  ruins. 

On  reviewing  the  scene  before  me,  I  could 
but  surmise  that  this  act  of  vengeance  on  our 
part  would  remind  the  natives  of  that  retalia- 
tion which  ever  would  be  taken  upon  them  by 
all  civilized  nations,  as  long  as  they  obstinately 
persisted  in  committing  such  piratical  prac- 
tices; a  sinful  propensity  which  they  have  pos- 
sessed from  the  earliest  periods. 

In  the  course  of  our  proceedings  we  took 
two  of  the  natives  prisoners,  one  of  whom  was 
captured  in  a  manner  that  excited  the  risible 
muscles  of  the    captors.     While  busily  occu- 


112  THE    JACK    IN    THE    BOX. 

pied  in  destroying  various  articles  in  one  of 
the  houses,  their  attention  was  attracted  by 
a  large  chest  standing  in  a  corner.  All  eyes 
were  immediately  bent  upon  this  object,  and 
no  doubt  there  were  some  who  fancied  it  mi^ht 
contain  some  valuables  which  would  enrich 
them  for  life.  To  put  the  matter  beyond  a 
doubt,  up  went  the  powerful  and  brawny  arm 
of  one  of  the  pioneers,  with  a  sledge  hammer. 
Down  fell  the  same  wei»htv  concern  on  the  lid 
of  the  chest,  which  was  stove  to  pieces,  when, 
wonderful,  most  wonderful  to  relate,  out  pop- 
ped, not,  my  readers,  Plutus,  the  god  of  riches, 
as  had  been  imagined,  but  the  dark,  dismal, 
and  affrighted  countenance  of  a  poor  devil  of  a 
Malay,  who  exclaimed,  in  broken  English, 
"  My  God,  massa."  One  of  the  marines,  who 
was  foremost  on  the  occasion,  (I  suppose  wish- 
ing to  have  the  first  finger  in  the  pie,)  started 
back,  most  egregiously  disappointed  in  his 
great  expectations,  exclaiming,  "  My  eyes,  vot 
a  d — ble  ill-looking  Jack  in  the  box."  How- 
ever,  the  poor  fellow  was  taken  prisoner,  and 
sent  on  board  with  another,  his  brother  in  mis- 
fortune, but  afterwards  humanely  liberated. 

Another  incident  which  tended  much  to 
amuse  me,  was  the  dry  and  laconic  answer  of 
one  of  the  second  division  to  his  officer  on  the 


LAWFUL    PLUNDER.  113 

subject  of  poaching,  and  which  arose  as  fol- 
lows. The  man  had  strayed  from  his  di- 
vision, and  was  then  on  his  return,  with  a 
young  calf  under  his  arm,  bleating,  as  they 
journeyed  on  together ;  which  prize  Tom  said 
he  considered  as  lawful  plunder,  and  intended 
to  give  his  messmates  a  regular  tuck-out  on 
the  ensuing  day  from  the  carcass  of  his  pris- 
oner. 

At  this  time  Tom  was  perceived  by  his  offi- 
cer, who,  in  an  authoritative  tone  of  voice,  de- 
manded of  him  what  he  was  doing"  out  of  his 
ranks.  Tom,  either  not  wishing  or  not  willing 
to  understand  his  superior,  exclaims,  "  Lawful 
plunder,  sir."  "  Baa  !"  cries  the  calf.  "Great 
poachers  in  my  native  place,  sir,"  once  more 
says  Tom.  "  Baa  !  "  reiterates  the  calf.  By 
this  time  the  officer  came  up  to  him,  and  could 
but  smile  at  the  dry  replies  of  Tom  to  his  or- 
ders, saying,  "So  they  are  great  poachers  in 
your  town,  are  they  1  "  "  Lord  bless  you,  sir, 
yes  ;  my  father  thought  no  more  of  snaring  a 
hare,  or  shooting  and  bagging  a  pheasant  upon 
another  gentleman's  manor,  than  I  do — being 
a  chip  of  the  old  block — in  knocking  down  any 
running  game  ;"  at  the  same  time  putting  the 
calf  out  of  his  arms,  which  run  off.  Tom  lost 
the  subrtance  for  the  shadow,  leveling  his  mus- 
10* 


114  A    MALAY    BURNT. 

ket  and  firing  at  a  poor,  affrighted  sheep, 
which,  however,  got  off  scot  free.  "  That  will 
do,"  exclaims  the  officer,  laughing  heartily;  "  I 
am  perfectly  satisfied  with  your  poaching  tac- 
tics. Fall  into  your  division."  "  Stop,  if  you 
please,  sir,  till  I  regain  my  calf;"  at  the  same 
time  starting  after  the  runaway  animal.  T 
turned  away,  pleasantly  thinking  to  myself 
which  was  the  biggest  calf  of  the  two. 

I  now  proceed  to  relate  a  scene  of  a  more 
melancholy  description,  which  was  occasioned 
by  a  Malay  being  burnt  to  death  in  the  general 
flames.  On  being  discovered  by  some  of  our 
party,  he  would  not  leave  the  house,  which  was 
then  burning  over  his  head,  either  by  force  or 
entreaty.  What  his  motives  were  for  this  act 
of  self-destruction,  I  cannot  judge;  but  can  on- 
ly surmise  it  either  proceeded  from  a  fear  of 
falling  into  our  hands,  or  sprung  from  a  nobler 
principle,  not  to  leave  the  scenes  of  his  earlier 
years,  but  rather  perish  in  the  general  wreck. 
If  the  former,  the  poor  unfortunate  was  under 
very  mistaken  notions,  as  he  would  have  been 
treated  with  that  kind  commiseration  which 
ever  actuates  the  brave  towards  an  unfortunate. 
If  the  latter  was  his  idea,  his  heroism  and  self- 
devotion  can   but  be   applauded    by  the  truly 


soosoo.  115 

brave,  however  the  result  may  be  regretted  by 
the  humane. 

Having  completed  our  work  of  destruction, 
the  damage  done  bein^  estimated  at  $1S0,00  J, 
we  hoisted  our  flag  in  a  conspicuous  situation 
on  the  beach,  to  notify  to  the  ship  that  we  had 
succeeded  in  our  object,  as  far  as  retaliation 
was  concerned  ;  and  at  3,  P.  M.  we  once  more 
embarked  in  our  boats  for  the  ship,  in  the  same 
uniform  order  as  we  had  landed,  and  went  on 
board,  highly  exhilarated  in  spirits,  to  think  we 
had  taken  some  satisfaction  on  this  desperate 
horde,  however  inadequate  it  might  be  to  the 
injury  sustained,  as  far  as  national  feeling  was 
concerned  ;  and  at  the  same  time  letting  the 
Malays  know  that  a  civilized  nation  was  not  to 
be  insulted  with  impunity. 

We  left  this  scene  of  our  resentment  on  the 
3d  inst.  and  proceeded  to  Soosoo,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  watering  the  ships,  this  place  being 
most  convenient  for  that  purpose,  as  the  rivers 
run  close  to  the  sea-coast.  We  came  to  an  an- 
chor on  the  same  evening,  and,  during  the  few- 
days  we  remained  here,  our  boats  were  on  the 
alert  to  fill  water,  escorted  by  a  party  of  the 
marine  guard,  for  the  safeguard  and  protection 
of  them  and  their  crews,  who  were  also  well 
armed  ;  but  there  was   no  molestation  what- 


116  DEATH   AND    BURIAL. 

ever  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  who  were  more 
friendly  than  otherwise. 

On  the  5th  inst.  we  lost  another  of  our  crew, 
named  Nathaniel  Tidd,  by  the  small-pox.  In 
the  evening  a  boat  was  manned,  and  his  earthly 
remains  were  conveyed  to  the  offing,  attended 
by  the  chaplain,  and  launched  into  the  silent 
deep,  with  the  accustomed  form  of  prayers 
being  read  over  them.  This  act  of  melancholy 
friendship  being  performed,  the  boat  returned 
to  the  ship. 


CHAPTER  X. 

i 

Honor  pricks  me  on.  Yea,  but  if  honor  pricks  me  off,  when  I 
come  on  ;  how  then  ?  Can  honor  set  a  leg  ?  No.  Or  an  arm  ?  No. 
Or  take  away  the  grief  of  a  wound  ?  Xo.  Honor  hath  no  skill  in 
surgery,  then ?  Xo.  What  is  honor:  A  word.  Honor  is  a  mere 
scutcheon  j  and  so  ends  my  catechism. — FaUtaJPs  Soliloquy. 

Shakspeare. 

Soliloquy  on  Honor — Seize  a  Proa — Description  of — 
Death — Comments — Leave  Soosoo — Poaclam  —  Situa- 
tion and  Character — Another  Death — Penang — Arrive 

.  at — Account  of— Wounded  Moor— Sailor's  Liberality 
— Malacca — Account  of — Singapore — Establish  a  Hos- 
pital— Description  of  Singapore — Chinese  Junks,  &c. 

Ox  the  following  day  a  boat  was  manned  up- 
on a  very  different  occasion,  and  the  crew  of 
the  same  well  armed,  to  attack  and  board  a 
large  proa,  which  was  observed  to  be  standing 
in.  All  hands  in  the  boat  were  glad  01  this  op- 
portunity afforded  them,  and  their  hearts  were 
expanded  with  joyous  expectation,  flattering 
themselves  it  might  be  a  prize  worth  capture  ; 
if  not,  they  were  in  hopes  of  some  show  of  re- 
sistance being  made,  as  they  had  not  forgotten 
the  old  grudge,  and  were  quite  tired  with  inak- 


118  SEIZE    A    PROA. 

ing  war  in  semblance  ;  wishing  to  have  nothing 
but  the  true  thing  itself,  as  the  cowardly  Ma- 
lays had  not  as  yet  given  them  a  chance  of  ob- 
taining so  much  as  an  honorable  scratch  to 
show  on  their  return  home. 

Our  boat  skimmed  along  the  surface  of  the 
water,  and  was  soon  alongside  of  the  enemy, 
pouncing  upon  her  like  an  eagle  on  its  prey  ; 
but  alas  !  all  hopes  of  a  valuable  prize  were 
soon  at  an  end  ;  for,  on  boarding  her,  nothing 
was  found  on  board  but  the  crew  and  cargo, 
which  consisted  of  live  stock,  that  is  to  say,  a 
few  women  and  children,  who  it  appeared 
were  slaves.  In  the  refined  ideas  of  the  plant- 
ers of  the  torrid  zone,  slaves  are  always  con- 
sidered as  live  stock.     Such  is  the  wav  of  the 

w 

world. 

The  aforesaid  boat  was  brought  alongside, 
but  afterwards  allowed  to  proceed  on  her  des- 
tination. In  noticing  the  capture  of  this  proa, 
I  am  led  to  imagine  that,  had  she  been  de- 
tained as  a  lawful  prize,  and  a  division  made 
of  the  property  seized,  it  would  have  been  the 
cause  of  some  confusion,  especially  as  far  as 
the  cargo  was  concerned.  The  wishes  of  most 
would  have  led  them  to  obtain  the  softer  sex  for 
their  share  of  the  prize,  in  preference  to  fa- 
thering the  children,  who  were  their  lineal  de- 


DESCRIPTION    OF    A    PROA.  119 

scendants.  However  open-hearted  a  sailor  may- 
be, as  regards  a  friend  or  brother  shipmate  in 
distress,  he  notwithstanding  possesses  the  more 
refined  feelings  of  a  man;  and  it  must  be  pro- 
verbially known,  that  there  is  a  general  desire 
to  father  our  own  children  in  preference  to  that 
of  a  stranger. 

The  construction  of  these  proas  is  very  dif- 
ferent from  our  stvle  of  boat  buildino; ;  for  the 
rest  of  the  world  make  the  heads  of  their  Ves- 
sels different  from  the  stern,  and  the  two  sides 
alike ;  bat  the  proa,  on  the  contrary,  has  her 
head  and  stern  exactly  alike,  and  her  two  sides 
very  different.  The  side  always  intended  to  be 
the  lee  side,  being  flat,  and  tire  windward  side 
made  rounding,  in  the  same  manner  as  other 
vessels;  and  to  prevent  her  oversetting,  which, 
from  her  small  breadth  and  the  straight  run  of 
her  lee  side,  would  without  this  precaution  in- 
fallibly happen,  there  is  a  frame  laid  out  from 
her  to  windward,  to  the  end  of  which  is  fasten- 
ed a  log,  fashioned  into  the  shape  of  a  small 
boat,  and  made  hollow.  The  weight  of  this 
frame  is  intended  to  balance  the  proa,  and  the 
small  boat,  by  its  buoyancy,  being  always  in 
the  water,  prevents  her  oversetting  to  wind- 
ward. This  frame  is  usually  called  an  out- 
rigger.    One  of  these   proas  generally  carry 


120         DEATH LEAVE  SOOSOO. 

six  or  seven  persons,  two  of  which  are  placed 
in  the  head  and  stern,  who  steer  the  vessel,  al- 
ternately, with  a  paddle,  according  to  the  tack 
she  goes  on,  he  in  the  stern  being  the  steers- 
man. The  others  are  employed  either  in  bail- 
ing out  the  water  which  she  accidently  ships,  or 
in  setting  and  trimming  the  sail. 

These  proas,  by  sailing  most  excellently  on 
a  wind,  and  with  either  end  foremost,  can  run 
from  one  island  to  another  by  merely  shifting 
the  sails,  which  are  generally  made  of  a  kind 
of  matting,  without  ever  putting  about ;  and  by 
the  flatness  of  their  lee  side  and  their  small 
breadth,  they  are  capable  of  lying  much  nearer 
the  wind  than  any  other  vessel  hitherto  known. 

On  the  ensuing  day  from  this  incident  taking 
place,  the  American  ship  Sumatra  arrived  from 
Manilla,  and  came  to  an  anchor,  proceeding 
homewards  on  the  following  day,  carrying  let- 
ters from  our  ship  to  the  general  part  of  the 
relatives  and  friends  of  our  crew. 

On  the  6th  we  committed  the  remains  of  an- 
other of  the  crew  to  the  deep,  named  Hiram 
Lovrein,  making  the  third  and  last  victim  to 
that  dreadful  disorder,  the  small-pox ;  as  from 
this  period  those  afflicted  shortly  recovered 
from  its  baneful  effects. 

On  the  same  day  we  left  Soosoo,  with  our 


PUNISHMENT.  121 

consort,  the  John  Adams,  for  Prince  of  Wales 
Island.  As  soon  as  we  had  got  some  distance 
from  the  land,  Poadnm,  the  Malay  chief,  who 
had  been  our  visiter  from  the  time  of  our  am* 
val,  left  us.  He  regretted  much  our  departure, 
as  he  had  during  this  interval  considered  the 
ship  as  his  home  and  protection  from  the  invet- 
erate animosities  of  the  neio'hborinjr  chiefs. 
His  life  on  shore  was  one  continued  scene  of 
inquietude,  arising  from  his  possessing  those 
principles  which  did  him  honor,  and  because 
he  would  not  in  any  manner  connive  with  them 
in  their  rapacious  acts  of  plunder  and  cruelty. 

They  had  made  several  attempts  to  destroy 
him,  but  were  always  frustrated  in  their  mur- 
derous design  by  the  interposition  of  Divine 
Providence.  He  had  given  his  enemies  fre- 
quent  proofs  of  his  manly  courage  and  prowess 
when  thus  assailed.  His  followers  were  ex- 
tremely partial  to  him,  always  adhering  to  his 
fortunes  and  interests,  with  a  fidelity  which 
would  put  many  a  servile  courtier  to  the  blush. 

On  the  19th  inst.  at  10,  A.  M.  all  hands 
were  called  to  "  witness  punishment,"  and 
Benjamin  Bray  received  twenty-four  lashes, 
with  the  cats,  without  being  tried  by  a  court- 
martial.  According  to  the  articles  of  war, 
which  are  generally  read  once  a  month,  the 
11 


122     STRENGTH  OF  CURRENT DEATH. 

commodore  exceeded  the  bounds  of  his  author- 
ity, as  those  articles  expressly  state  that  no 
commander,  in  punishing  a  man,  shall  inflict 
more  than  twelve  lashes,  unless  he  has  been 
previously  tried  and  found  guilty  by  a  court- 
martial. 

During  this  passage,  but  more  especially  on 
nearing  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  we  were 
obliged  frequently  to  bring  up  with  the  stream 
anchor,  in  consequence  of  the  strength  of  the 
currents  and  our  proximity  to  the  various  isl- 
ands with  which  these  parts  abound. 

On  the  2"2d,  a  youth  named  William  Lyons, 
departed  this  life,  of  a  brain  fever,  and  his  re- 
mains were  committed  to  the  deep,  with  the 
usual  ceremonies.  In  noticing  the  death  of 
this  unfortunate  and  ill-treated  young  man, 
I  am  absolutely  compelled  to  comment  upon 
the  bad  usage  he  received  from  the  officers,  as 
a  debt  of  justice  I  owe  his  memory.  He  was  a 
native  of  Cape  Cod,  about  nineteen  years  of 
age,  and  was  whipped  nearly  every  day,  from 
Norfolk  to  Penang,  by  one  or  other  of  the  offi- 
cers, which  was  nearly  the  term  of  nine  months, 
within  a  few  days.  He  departed  this  life  a  day 
or  two  before  the  arrival  of  the  ship  at  the  lat- 
ter place.  At  six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of 
his  decease,  he  received  a  dozen  with  the  colt ; 


PENANG.  123 

at  eight,  another  dozen  ;  at  ten,  another ;  and 
towards  the  afternoon,  another.  He  was  in 
perfect  health  in  the  morning.  At  two  o'clock, 
P.  M.  he  was  taken  sick  ;  at  four  he  died  ;  and 
at  six  he  was  buried.  On  his  death  cot  he  was 
delirious,  exclaiming,  "  Spare  me,  O  spare 
me  !  "  and  counting  to  himself,  "  One — two  — 
three,"  as  though  he  was  reckoning  lashes 
upon  his  back ;  and  by  such  language  too 
plainly  expressing  what  was  passing  in  his 
mind.  This  is  only  one  instance  of  the  cruel 
oppression  practised  over  the  crew  by  the  offi- 
cers, but  an  instance  which  ought  to  cry  down 
shame  upon  their  heads,  and  which  ought  to  be 
the  means  of  depriving  them  of  their  epaulets, 
which  such  conduct  has  rendered,  them  un- 
worthy to  wear,  and  they  could,  without  doubt, 
be  bestowed  on  men  possessing  better  princi- 
ples. 

On  the  25th  we  came  to  anchor  off  Penang, 
the  principal  town  and  harbor  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Island,  Point  Cornwallis  bearing  S.  E. 
half  S.  and  Old  Queeda  N.  by  E. 

This  island  is  under  the  British  flag,  and  is 
situated  in  latitude  0°  36'  south,  and  longitude 
105°  17'  east.  Penang,  the  town  off  which  we 
anchored,  is  situated  in  a  complete  grove,  con- 
Fisting   principally    of  cocoa-nut    trees.     The 


124  BENEVOLENCE. 

buildings  are  thin,  but  strongly  built,  consisting 
of  bamboo  ;  but  those  inhabited  by  Europeans 
are  modeled  and  erected  according  to  the 
European  fashion.  It  contains  a  splendid  ba- 
zar, in  which  are  to  be  found  the  products 
of  both  hemispheres.  Its  inhabitants  consist 
of  a  complete  mixture  of  various  nations,  from 
the  turbaned  Turk  to  the  piratical  Malay.  It 
has  a  good  anchorage,  and  is  a  general  ren- 
dezvous for  men  of  war  and  other  shipping  in 
the  East  India  trade. 

On  the  earliest  opportunity  a  boat  was  de- 
spatched on  shore,  for  the  purpose  of  landing 
the  unfortunate  Moor,  who  had  lost  his  hand 
and  come  round  with  us  from  Soosoo.  Pre- 
vious to  his  departure,  the  greater  part  of  our 
crew,  who  are  never  backward  in  the  cause  of 
humanity,  voluntarily  subscribed  the  sum  of 
one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  for  his  benefit, 
for  which  act  of  kindness  he  appeared  ex- 
tremely grateful.     Well  he  might. 

We  received  a  pilot  on  board  on  the  follow- 
ing morning,  to  conduct  the  ship  to  Singapore, 
our  next  destined  port ;  and,  shortly  after  his 
appearance,  we  got  under  way,  with  the  John 
Adams,  for  that  port.  During  this  passage  we 
were  obliged  to  bring  up  nightly  with  the  stream 
anchor,  pursuing  our  course  at  every  possible 
opportunity. 


MALACCA.  125 

On  the  1st  of  February  we  were  close  in 
with  the  town  of  Malacca,  which  is  a  seaport, 
and  the  capital  of  the  peninsula.  It  is  in 
2°  30'  north,  and  150°  east.  This  town  is  ex- 
cellent for  trade  with  India,  and  when  it  was 
first  discovered  by  the  Portuguese,  who  were 
afterwards  expelled  by  the  Dutch,  Malacca 
was  the  richest  city  in  the  East,  next  to  Goa 
and  Ormuz,  being  the  key  of  the  China,  the 
Japan,  the  Moluccas,  and  the  Sunda  trades. 
The  couutry  is  now,  however,  chiefly  valuable 
for  its  trade  with  the  Chinese.  The  inhabitants 
in  the  interior  parts  differ  little  from  brutes  in 
their  manner  of  living,  and  yet  the  Malayan 
language  is  reckoned  the  purest  of  any  spoken 
in  the  Indies.  Its  principal  produce  is  tin,  pep- 
per, elephant's  teeth,  canes,  and  gums.  The 
degeneracy  of  the  Malayans,  who  were  for- 
merly an  industrious,  ingenious  people,  is 
easily  accounted  for  by  the  tyranny  of  the 
Dutch,  whose  interest  it  was  that  they  should 
remain  in  a  state  of  ignorance  and  slavery. 
Malacca  was  taken  from  the  Dutch  by  the 
English,  in  August,  1T9G,  before  which  time 
the  latter  used  to  carry  on  a  smuggling  trade, 
in  their  country  ships,  from  the  coast  of  Coro- 
mandel  and  Bay  of  Bengal. 

On  the  2d  February  the   inland  about  Sin- 
IP 


126        SINGAPORE DYSENTERY. 

gapore  was  in  sight,  and  on  the  same  even- 
ing we  came  to  an  anchor  in  a  small,  cove,  not 
being  able  to  fetch  the  proper  anchorage,  in 
consequence  of  a  strong  adverse  wind.  On  the 
following  morning,  at  daylight,  we  hove  up  the 
anchor  and  beat  the  ship  in,  coming  to  an 
anchor  in  Singapore  Roads,  after  a  passage  of 
twenty  days  from  Soosoo.  The  town  was  sa- 
luted according  to  custom,  the  same  being 
returned  by  the  forts  ashore. 

A  considerable  number  of  our  men  were  at 
this  particular  time  afflicted  with  sickness, 
arising  from  the  dysentery  ;  two  dying  with 
that  disorder  the  day  after  our  arrival.  Their 
remains  were  interred  on  shore,  in  the  naval 
manner.  This  sickness  was  found  to  be  the 
prevailing  disorder  of  the  climate,  and  in- 
creased to  so  alarming  a  degree  that  it  was 
deemed  advisable  to  send  the  sick  on  shore,  as 
more  conducive  to  their  ultimate  recovery. 
The  patients  were  consequently  removed  from 
the  ship  until  they  were  reinstated  in  health. 
A  most  convenient  house  was  engaged  for  their 
reception,  to  answer  the  purpose  of  a  hospital, 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  doctor  and 
assistants,  with  every  necessary  appendage 
which  might  in  any  manner  tend  to  their  com- 
fort or  benefit. 


CHINESE    JUNKS.  127 

Our  consort,  the  John  Adams,  from  whom 
we  had  parted  company  a  few  days  previously, 
arrived  on  the  7th  inst.  and  came  to  anchor. 
This  day  we  were  visited  by  the  commander- 
in-chief  of  the  English  forces  at  Singapore, 
which  in  this  place  consist  entirely  of  natives, 
the  officers  only  being  Europeans. 

Singapore  is  one  of  the  British  settlements 
in  India,  and  has  a  fine,  capacious  harbor, 
which  is  constantly  full  of  shipping,  arising 
from  its  lying  in  the  track  of  the  China  trade. 
It  lies  in  1°  17' 22"  north  latitude,  and  103°  51' 
45"  east  longitude.  The  town  is  built  upon 
a  river  at  the  south  side  of  the  island.  The 
town  and  harbor  are  defended  by  a  strong  fort, 
well  garrisoned,  and  standing  in  a  beautiful  sit- 
uation. The  air  of  this  island  is  deliciously 
balmy;  health  and  beauty  here  revel  together; 
nature  is  ever  dressed  in  never-fading  charms, 
and  her  sunny  smiles  are  ever  reflected  from 
the  human  countenance.  The  town  is  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  in  length  and  one  in  breadth  ; 
the  streets  are  regular,  and  are  built  after  the 
English  style,  with  beautiful  sidewalks. 

In  addition  to  the  variety  of  shipping  in  the 
harbor,  I  especially  noticed  the  curious  form 
and  build  of  the  Chinese  junks  ;  and  as  an  op- 
portunity was   afforded  of  going  on  board  of 


128  CHINESE    JUNKS. 

one,  my  curiosity,  which  had  been  much  ex- 
cited, was  satisfied.  I  here  subjoin  an  account 
of  the  same  for  the  amusement  or  information 
of  my  readers. 

Of  the  many  variously  shaped  vessels  in 
which  men  peril  their  lives  and  fortunes  on 
the  boisterous  main,  these  junks  are  the  most 
remarkable,  as  well  as  the  most  frail.  They 
nevertheless  make  long  voyages  in  their  com- 
mercial intercourse  with  the  Philippines,  Mo- 
luccas, and  other  islands  of  the  Indian  Archi- 
pelago, also  to  Java,  the  Malay  peninsula,  and 
the  coast  of  Siam  and  Cochin  China.  In 
crossing  the  Chinese  seas,  they  always  take 
advantage  of  the  monsoons,  as,  from  their  bulk 
and  light  draught  of  water,  they  are  but  ill 
calculated  to  make  way  against  the  wind  ;  but 
these  operate  in  assisting  their  velocity  with 
favorable  winds,  and,  owing  probably  to  their 
buoyancy,  it  seldom  occurs  that  any  founder. 

To  the  eye  they  present  a  large,  unsightly 
mass,  bearing,  however,  a  striking  resemblance 
to  those  of  England  two  centuries  ago,  with  a 
great  sheer  hulk,  not  unlike  a  half  moon. 

They  are  mostly  three  hundred  or  four  hun- 
dred tons  burthen,  and  sometimes  as  much  as 
eight  hundred.  Their  rigging  is  of  the  sim- 
plest kind,  consisting  of  two  or   three  large 


CHINESE    JUNKS.  129 

masts,  composed  of  a  single  piece  of  timber, 
much  stouter  in  proportion  than  European 
masts,  on  which  traverse  large  square  sails, 
which  are  increased,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  vessel,  but  in  number  never  exceeding  three., 
These  sails  are  of  a  reed  or  straw  matting, 
with  stout  bamboos  at  intervals  of  two  to  two 
and  a  half  feet,  extending  horizontally  ;  along 
the  surface  and  to  either  extremity  of  these 
bamboos  are  attached  small  lines,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  adjusting  the  sails  to  the  wind.  "When 
it  is  desired  to  reduce  or  reef  the  sails,  they  are 
rolled  up  from  the  bottom  by  as  many  of  these 
spaces  as  are  thought  necessary. 

The  anchors  are  of  the  rudest  construction ; 
the  material  is  always  of  wood,  weighted  with 
immense  stones  lashed  to  them,  and  unprovided 
with  a  stock  across,  to  ensure  its  falling  to  the 
ground  in  a  right  direction. 

Among  other  peculiarities  is  the  custom  of 
painting  a  large  eye  on  each  side  of  the  bow; 
the  Chinese  very  pertinently  asking,  "  How 
can  ship  see,  suppose  he  hab  no  eye  1  " 

The  rudder  proje'cts  from  the  stern  similar 
to  that  of  a  London  barge,  and  is  generally 
perforated  with  holes,  or  built  of  lattice  work, 
and  is  guided  by  ropes,  passing  from  it  along- 
side the  vessel. 


130  CHINESE    JUNKS. 

Their  compass  is  shut  up  in  a  small  bowl, 
with  a  quantity  of  perfumed  matches  stuck  in 
sand,  and  which  are  lit  on  an  offering  being 
made  to  their  deity.  The  cabin  is  very  small, 
and  around  it  are  the  berths  of  the  crew,  just 
large  enough  to  contain  their  persons.  Each 
berth  has  a  mat,  and  a  hard  stuffed  cushion  for 
a  pillow. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

And  O,  the  little  warlike  world  within  — 
The  well-reeved  guns,  the  netted  canopy  — 
The  hoarse  command,  the  busy  humming  din, 
When  at  a  word  —  the  yards  are  manned  on  high. 

Byron. 

"Washington's  Birth-Day — Missionaries — Divine  Worship 
at  Sea — More  Deaths — On  the  Existence  of  a  God — 
Proofs  of  the  same — A  Dying  Scene — Chinese  Admi- 
ral's •  Visit— In  a  Scrape  myself — The  Ball — Leave 
Singapore — More  Deaths — Arrival  at  Macao — Intelli- 
gence— Stop  put  to  Trade  by  the  Chinese. 

On  the  22d  February,  —  a  day  never  to  be 
erased  from  the  memories  of  the  sons  of  Amer- 
ica, being  the  anniversary  of  the  birth-day  of 
Gen.  George  Washington,  —  on  this  day  the 
yards  were  manned,  colors  displayed,  and  a 
salute  fired,  to  commemorate  the  day  of  his 
nativity.  A  celebrated  writer  justly  observes, 
that  history  and  tradition  are  explored  in  vain 
for  a  parallel  to  his  character  :  he  was  the 
founder  of  liberty,  and  the  friend  of  man. 

On  the  following  Sunday,  though  it  rained 
in  torrents,  it  did  not  damp  the  Christian  ardor 


132  DIVINE    SERVICE    AT    SEA. 

of  two  American  missionaries,  who  are  sta- 
tioned at  Singapore,  and  who  came  on  board 
to  perform  divine  service.  One  of  them  read 
the  usual  form  of  prayer,  at  the  conclusion  of 
which  the  other  reverend  gentleman  delivered 
an  elaborate  and  most  impressive  discourse. 
It  was  pleasurable  to  the  feelings  of  all  to  hear 
his  various  comments,  and  to  think  that  Chris- 
tianity and  a  knowledge  of  the  holy  gospel 
were  finding  their  way  to  the  very  confines  of 
the  earth.  On  inserting  this  incident,  it  re- 
minds me  of  having;  omitted,  in  my  previous 
observations,  to  mention  the  impression  made 
on  my  mind  by  the  performance  of  divine 
worship  on  board  of  a  vessel  of  war.  On 
Sunday  mornings,  immediately  after  quarters, 
should  the  weather  permit,  all  hands  are  called 
to.  muster.  The  summons  is  instantly  obeyed, 
by  every  one  proceeding  to  the  quarter-deck, 
(the  sick  alone  exempted,)  where  the  minister 
stands  in  readiness,  arrayed  in  his  clerical 
robes,  and  the  capstern  covered  with  the  na- 
tional flag,  to  answer  the  purpose  of  a  pulpit. 
The  commodore  takes  his  station  on  the  weather 
side  of  the  chaplain  ;  the  lieutenants,  and  all 
other  commissioned  and  warrant  officers  on 
the  weather  side  of  the  deck  ;  the  forward  offi- 
cers at  the  fife-rail,  and  petty  officers  at  the 


3I0RE    DEATHS.  133 

fore  part  of  the  main-mast.  The  blue-jackets 
take  up  their  position  abaft  the  mizzen-mast, 
clad  in  white  frocks,  with  blue  collars,  white 
trowsers,  and  straw  hats,  looking  the  picture  of 
cleanliness  ;  whilst  the  marines  are  stationed 
and  drawn  up  in  rank,  on  the  lee  side  of  the 
deck,  headed  by  their  commanding  officer,  all 
in  full  uniform.  The  whole  en  masse  forms  a 
very  picturesque  group.  After  the  usual  rou- 
tine of  divine  service  has  been  performed,  every 
monthly  Sunday  the  articles  of  war  are  read, 
giving  the  information,  that  whoever  infringes 
the  rules  and  discipline  of  the  service,  by  neg- 
lect of  duty  or  other  misdemeanors,  shall  be 
punished  according  to  the  regulations  of  the 
service  therein  specified  ;  that  is  to  say,  death, 
or  worse  punishment,  as  the  sailor  says.  By 
worse  punishment,  he  alludes  to  his  «;ro£  beinsf 
stopped,  which  article  constitutes  his  principal 
creed. 

In  addition  to  the  two  men  who  died  the 
day  after  our  arrival,  I  have  the  painful  task  to 
note  the  demise  of  four  more,  who  were  called 
away  by  the  stern  messenger  of  death,  to  their 
long,  last  home,  with  the  same  disorder,  —  the 
dysentery.  In  noticing  this  unfortunate  inci- 
dent, I  am  led  to  comment  on  the  death  of  one 
of  the  above,  named  George  Walton ;  and  with 
12 


134  EXISTENCE    OF    A    GOD. 

all  respect  for  the  memory  of  the  departed,  I 
have  to  assure  my  readers  that  calumny  is  a 
principle  I  do  not  possess ;  but  I  am  actually 
led  into  the  following  observations,  from  the 
idea  of  benefiting  those  of  my  readers,  if  any, 
who  may  be  living  under  such  blind  and  igno- 
rant habits. 

I  have  to  observe  that  he  was  an  elderly 
man,  and  his  death  gave  me  much  scope  for 
reflection,  arising  from  the  assertions  1  have 
heard  him  make  while  alive.  It  was  ever  pain- 
ful to  my  feelings  to  hear  him,  in  general  con- 
versation with  his  shipmates,  firmly  acknowl- 
edge that  he  did  not  believe  in  the  existence  of 
a  divine  Creator,  or  an  hereafter.  To  all 
brought  up  in  the  tenets  of  our  holy  religion, 
such  an  assertion  of  itself  was  enough  to  inspire 
them  with  horror  as  well  as  commiseration  for 
the  miserable  being  who  could  be  so  blind 
to  his  eternal  welfare,  as  to  avow  such  an 
opinion.  IVot  a  single  moment  of  our  lives 
transpires,  but  forcibly  shows  forth,  by  some 
incident  or  other,  however  trifling,  the  exist- 
ence of  a  divine  power. 

Cast  but  your  eyes  upwards  for  a  moment, 
and  view  the  wondrous  canopy  of  heaven,  with 
its  innumerable  stars ;  again  downwards,  on 
the  expansive  waters,  with  its  finny  inhabitants, 


EXISTENCE    OF    A   GOD.  135 

by  which  the  earth  is  surrounded.  Look  to 
that  earth  itself,  with  its  various  productions  for 
the  benefit  of  the  human  race ;  also  to  the  an- 
imal creation  and  the  feathered  inhabitants  of 
the  air  ;  and  last,  though  not  least,  examine 
yourself,  as  one  of  the  most  wondrous  works  of 
his  hand,  who  has  modeled  and  formed  you  as 
one  of  the  lords  of  creation,  has  ennobled 
you  with  a  soul,  and  endowed  you  with  every 
faculty  to  fit  you  for  free  agency. 

If  these  plain,  existing  proofs  are  not  of 
themselves  sufficient  to  prove  the  supremacy 
of  a  divine  God,  I  could  enumerate  a  thousand 
others  to  prove  the  validity  of  my  argument. 
Could  poor,  sinful  mortals  make  the  most  com- 
mon thing  in  existence,  without  the  materials 
were  first  provided  for  them,  through  the  gen- 
erous influence  of  an  all-wise  Providence  ?  It 
is  true  man  may  manufacture,  and  improve 
upon  the  materials  given,  but  he  cannot  make 
even  a  grain  of  common  sand. 

It  affords  me  much  pleasure  to  observe  that, 
previously  to  Walton's  quitting  the  ship  for  the 
hospital,  where  he  died,  he  retracted  all  his 
former  erroneous  opinions.  He  called  me  one 
day  to  the  side  of  the  cot  in  which  he  was  lay- 
ing, with  the  tear  of  contrition  standing  in  his 
eye,  and  his  voice  completely  choked  with  his 


136  VISIT    OF    CHINESE  ADMIEAL. 

emotions.  Extending  to  me  his  hand,  with- 
ered by  sickness,  he  acknowledged  the  sinful 
errors  he  had  put  belief  in,  at  the  same  time 
telling  me  he  was  thoroughly  convinced  there 
was  a  God,  as  \vrell  as  a  Redeemer  in  his  divine 
Son. 

On  this  acknowledgment,  which  imparted 
the  most  genuine  pleasure  to  my  feelings,  I 
implored  him  to  offer  up  his  prayers  of  peni- 
tence to  his  God,  through  the  merits  of  his  Sav- 
iour, as  it  was  through  his  divine  mediation 
alone  that  we  were  pardoned  for  all  our  sins, 
and  cleansed  from  all  unrighteousness.  This 
was  the  last  interview  I  had  with  him,  as  on 
the  following  day  he  was  removed  on  shore  to 
the  hospital,  where  he  died  ;  and  though  not 
with  or  near  him  at  the  time  of  his  demise,  I 
was  afterwards  informed  that  he  died  as  a  true 
penitent,  the  name  of  his  Saviour  clinging  to 
his  lips  with  his  parting  breath. 

On  the  13th  inst.  we  were  visited  by  the  Co- 
chin Chinese  admiral  and  suite,  whose  man 
of  war  junks  were  laying  in  the  roads,  who 
came  on  board  dressed  in  the  costume  of  their 
country.  After  being  shown  through  the  ship, 
they  took  their  departure,  and  were  saluted  ac- 
cording to  custom. 

This  day  will  be  remembered  by  me  as  long 


IN   A   SCRAPE   MYSELF.  137 

as  recollection  exists,  as  one  in  which  I  was 
obliged  to  undergo  an  act  of  the  most  capri- 
cious, revengeful,  and  oppressive  tyranny  from 
an  officer  who  could  satisfy  his  resentment  in  no 
other  manner  than  by  taking  advantage  of  the 
power  and  authority  which  his  commission  as 
a  lieutenant  placed  in  his  hands,  and  which 
transpired  as  follows  :  A  few  days  previous  to 
this  transaction,  Mr.  Edward  Coale,  one  of  the 
assistant  surgeons  came  to  me  and  asked  me  if 
I  would  be  kind  enough  to  take  charge  of  the 
sick  bay  for  a  few  days,  until  the  return  of  the 
hospital  steward  from  the  shore,  who  was  at- 
tending his  duties  there  in  the  hospital  which 
had  been  established.  Wishing  to  oblige  Dr. 
Coale,  for  whom  at  that  time  I  had  a  particular 
regard,  I  acceded  to  his  request,  and  rendered 
him  all  the  assistance  in  my  power.  On  this 
day  I  was  coming  up  the  after  ladder  with  an 
inkstand  in  my  hand,  which  Dr.  Coale,  then 
on  the  gun-deck,  had  required  of  me.  A  col- 
ored man,  named  Lloyd,  ascending  the  ladder 
before  me,  by  accident  kicked  the  inkstand  out 
of  my  hand,  and  a  few  drops  of  its  contents 
sprinkled  the  steps  of  the  ladder.  This  inci- 
dent was  perceived  by  the  master's  mate  of  the 
berth-deck,  named  Donaldson,  one  of  the  most 
complete  fools  for  an  officer  that  ever  was  sufc- 
12* 


138  IN    A    SCRAPE    MYSELF. 

fered  to  breathe,  and  which  would  be  proved  by 
the  ship's  company  at  large.  This  nondescript 
immediately  reported  me  to  the  officer  of  the 
deck,  who  happened  to  be  my  very  good  friend, 
Mr.  Turk,  (most  properly  named,)  whose  eyes 
gleamed  with  revengeful  satisfaction  and  de- 
light at  beholding  me,  the  object  of  his  most 
capricious  revenge.  To  speak  in  my  own  de- 
fence were  needless  ;  he  would  not  hear  a  sin- 
gle word  in  justification  ;  called  a  boatswain's 
mate  and  desired  him  to  lav  on  to  me  with  all 
his  strength,  who  did  not  forget  the  injunction 
received.  At  this  time  I  happened  to  have  on 
a  thin  cotton  frock,  and  every  lash,  to  the  num- 
ber of  twelve,  fetched  a  piece  of  flesh  from  my 
back,  leaving  scars  which  I  can  show  to  the 
present  day. 

I  here  wish  to  observe  that  Mr.  Turk  had 
bestowed  a  dozen  lashes  on  me  the  day  pre- 
vious to  this,  for  not  having  a  piece  of  my 
wearing  apparel  marked.  It  had  been  marked, 
but  the  same  was  erased  from  the  constant 
washing.  On  receiving  this  second  castigation 
at  his  hands,  my  back  was  covered  with  plas- 
ters, which  I  was  obliged  to  place  on,  from  the 
wales  I  received.  When  Mr.  Turk  saw  this, 
on  repeating  his  tyranny  the  next  day  over 
me,  he  made  use  of  the  most  merciful  expres- 


THE    BALL.  139 

sion,  becoming  the  lips  of  an  officer  and  a  gen- 
tleman :    "  You   son   of  a  b ,  I  only  wish  I 

could   cause   plasters  to   be  put   on  your  back 
every  day." 

I  would  willingly  wish  to  do  this  officer  all 
possible  justice  ;  therefore  I  must  say  he  is  as 
smart  an  officer,  as  far  as  regards  the  duties  of 
a  ship,  as  he  is  in  tyrannizing  and  oppressing 
those  under  his  command,  when  he  has  the 
power. 

On  the  foilowino;  dav  our  crew  were  activelv 
employed  from  the  earlier  part  of  the  day  in 
fitting  up  and  dressing  the  ship,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  holding  a  ball  on  board.  The  colors 
of  different  nations  were  tastefully  arranged  in 
gay  festoons;  those  of  America  and  England 
being  placed  in  the  most  conspicuous  situation 
in  the  centre.  A  kind  of  chandelier  was  ar- 
ranged, formed  of  round  hoops,  covered  with 
different  colored  bunting,  and  bayonets  fastened 
to  the  same,  pointed  downwards,  so  that  the 
upper  parts  of  them  were  made  to  receive  the 
candles,  in  the  form  of  a  candlestick.  Every 
fanciful  ornament  that  could  possibly  be  mus- 
tered was  put  in  requisition  to  give  a  coloring 
to  the  scene,  which  was  picturesque  in  the  ex- 
treme, more  especially  when  lighted  up  on  the 
quarter-deck,  for  the  purpose  of  accommodat- 


140  THE    BALL. 

ing  those  of  our  visiters   who  felt  inclined  to 
amuse  themselves  on  the  light,  fantastic  toe. 

The  company  arrived  in  the  ship's  boats  at 
1,  P.  M.  the  same  having  been  despatched  on 
shore  for  them.  Amongst  them  was  the  Eng- 
lish attorney-general  and  the  principal  inhabit- 
ants of  Singapore.  A  salute  was  fired  on  their 
arrival,  and  at  night  commenced  the  dance.  I 
was  highly  amused  by  the  novelty  of  the  scene 
before  me.  The  greater  part  of  the  visiters 
were  beautiful  in  form,  and  graceful  in  every 
motion,  stepping  out  gayly,  with  the  utmost 
spirit  and  freedom  of  movement ;  while  several 
of  the  men,  determined  to  have  some  share  in 
the  scene  before  them,  were  also  kicking  up 
their  heels  forward,  to  the  tune  of  "  Jack's  the 
lad,"  from  an  old  humstrum  of  a  fiddle,  played 
by  a  colored  man,  mounted  on  a  tub,  as  his 
orchestra.  Our  musician,  though  not  possess- 
ing the  talents  of  Paganini,  was  thought  just 
as  much  of  by  the  group  whom  he  was  endeav- 
oring to  amuse  with  the  discordant  sounds  from 
his  instrument. 

The  following  directions  arid  instructions  for 
the  information  of  all  sailors  who  may  be  in- 
clined to  trip  it,  as  all  sailors  from  time  imme- 
morial are  wont,  "on  the  light,  fantastic  toe," 
were  recently  found  among  the  papers  of  the 


THE    BALL.  141 

late  Sir  Joseph  Yorke,  of  facetious  memory. 
They  form  a  perfect  vade  mecam  for  the  valiant 
defenders  of  our  wooden  walls,  when  they  are 
"  capering  ashore  ;"  and  by  carefully  studying 
this  manual  of  "dancing  made  easy"  to  tars' 
capacities,  the  ascensus  from  the  gun-room  to 
the  ball-room  will  be  facilis  indeed. 

FIRST    FIGURE. 

Le  fantaloon. Haul    upon    the    starboard 

tack,  let  the  other  craft  pass,  then  bear  up  and 
get  your  head  on  the  other  tack  ;  regain  your 
berth  on  the  larboard  tack,  back  and  fill  with 
your  partner,  box-haul  her,  wear  round  twice 
against  the  sun,  in  company  with  the  opposite 
craft  and  your  own  :  afterwards  box-haul  her 
again,  and  bring  up. 

SECOND    FIGURE. 

L'ete. — Shoot  ahead  about  two  fathoms  till 
you  nearly  come  astern  of  the  other  craft  under 
way  ;  then  make  a  stern  board  toward  your 
berth,  side  out  for  a  bend,  first  to  starboard  and 
then  to  port,  make  sail  and  pass  the  other  craft, 
get  your  head  round  on  the  other  tack,  another 
bend  to  starboard  and  port,  make  sail  to  regain 
your  berth,  wear  round,  back  and  fill,  and  box- 
haul  your  partner,  and  heave  to. 


142  THE    BALL. 

THIRD    FIGURE. 

La  poule. — Heave  ahead,  and  pass  your  ad- 
versary yard-arm  and  yard-arm,  regain  your 
berth  on  the  other  tack  ;  in  the  same  order  take 
your  station  in  the  line  with  your  partner,  back 
and  fill,  fall  on  your  heel  and  bring  up  with 
your  partner;  she  then  manoeuvres  ahead; 
heave  all  back,  shoot  ahead  again,  and  pay 
off  alongside;  you  then  make  all  sail  in  compa- 
ny with  her  till  nearly  astern  with  the  other 
line  ;  make  a  stern-board,  and  cast  her  off  to 
shift  for  herself;  regain  your  berth  by  the  best 
means  in  your  power,  and  let  go  your  anchor. 

FOURTH    FIGURE. 

La  Trenise. — Wear  round  as  before  against 
the  sun  ;  twice  box-haul  the  lady  ;  range  up 
alongside  her,  and  make  sail  in  company ; 
when  half  way  across  to  the  other  shore  drop 
astern  with  the  tide  short,  and  cast  off  the 
craft  ;  now  back  and  fill  as  before,  and  box- 
haul  her  and  yourself  into  your  berth,  and  bring 
up. 

FIFTH    FIGURE. 

La  Pastorale.  —  Shoot  ahead  alongside  your 
partner  ;  make  a  stern-board,  and  all  sail  over 
to  the  other  coast ;  let  go  the  hawser  and  pay 
off  in  your  berth,  and  take  a  turn  till  the  three 


THE    BALL.  143 

craft  opposite  range  up  abreast  twice  towards 
you,  and  back  astern  again  ;  now  manoeuvring 
any  rig  you  like,  only  under  easy  sail,  as  it  is 
always  a  light  breeze,  easy  zephyrs  they  call  it 
in  this  passage.  As  soon  as  you  see  their  helms 
down,  haul  round  in  company  with  them  on 
the  larboard  tack,  and  make  all  sail  with  your 
partner  into  your  berth,  and  bring  up. 

SIXTH    FIGURE. 

La  Finale. — "Wear  round  to  starboard,  pass- 
ing under  your  partner's  stern-lights,  the  cat- 
heads of  the  craft  on  vour  starboard  bow  ;  then 
make  sail  into  your  berth,  your  partner  passing 
athwart  your  bow  ;  now  proceed  according  to 
the  second  order  of  sailing;  complete  the  evo- 
lutions, shoot  ahead  and  lock  astern  twice,  in 
company  with  the  whole  squadron,  in  circular 
order  of  sailing.  Jos.  Yorke,  Admiral. 

It  is  well  to  give  an  occasional  truce  to  se- 
rious thoughts  and  daily  occupations.  No  sub- 
ject is  so  trivial  but  that  a  little  research,  and 
the  art  of  viewing  it  in  connection  with  other 
and  greater  things,  can  make  it  interesting  and 
even  useful.  The  present  party  of  visiters  was 
numerous,  and  they  seemed  much  pleased  with 
the  polite  attentions  paid  them,  in  addition  to 
the   amusements  received.     Every  thing  went 


144  LEAVE    SINGAPORE. 

on  with  the  most  perfect  harmony  and  hilarity, 
and  they  did  not  separate  until  a  late  hour. 

Our  necessary  arrangements  having  been 
completed  at  Singapore,  with  the  return  of  our 
sick  to  the  ship  from  the  hospital  on  shore,  we 
once  more  got  under  way,  with  the  John  Ad- 
ams, on  the  28th  March,  bound  to  Macao,  in 
China. 

During  the  passage  we  were  for  the  most 
part  favored  with  fine,  pleasant  weather,  the 
breezes  principally  light,  and  we  met  frequently 
with  small  islands,  in  which  the  Chinese  sea 
abounds ;  in  fact,  too  many  to  enumerate. 

That  scourge,  the  dysentery,  carried  off  seven 
of  the  crew  during  the  passage,  and  did  not  re- 
lax in  the  least  its  sway  over  us,  for  the  daily 
sick  report  generally  averaged  from  100  to  110 
individuals,  who  were  afflicted  with  it ;  so  much 
so,  as  to  be  incapacitated  from  performing  their 
usual  duties. 

On  the  7th  April  we  passed  a  Chinese  junk, 
standing  to  the  northward,  and  on  the -27th 
the  John  Adams  parted  company,  and  directed 
her  course  for  Manilla. 

On  the  25th  inst.  we  were  amongst  several 
Chinese  fishing-boats,  in  hourly  expectation  of 
making  the  land,  which  we  did  not  see  until 
the  following  morning ;  and  on  the  27th,  hav- 


STOP    PUT    TO    TRADE.  145 

ing  received  a  Chinese  pilot  on  board,  we  came 
to  anchor,  in  the  roads  off  Macao,  after  30 
days'  passage  from  Singapore. 

A  great  variety  of  merchant  shipping  were 
laying  at  anchor  off  Macao,  as  also  the  British 
sloop  of  war  Larn,  which  saluted  us  on  our 
arrival.  We,  according  to  the  usual  custom, 
hoisted  the  Portuguese  colors  at  the  fore,  and 
saluted  them  with  21  guns,  which  was  returned 
by  the  forts  ashore. 

The  first  information  we  received  of  any  in- 
terest, on  our  arrival,  was,  that  all  commercial 
intercourse  between  China  and  other  nations 
was  at  a  complete  stand,  arising  from  the  Chi- 
nese having  detected  some  European  vessels 
smuggling  opium  into  their  country,  which  was 
prohibited,  according  to  their  established  mari- 
time laws  and  regulations. 

In  consequence  of  this  breach  of  commercial 
intercourse,  a  restriction  had  been  placed  on 
the  accustomed  privileges  of  the  British,  Dutch, 
and  American  consuls,  who,  on  that  account, 
had  presented  addresses  to  the  proper  local  au- 
thorities, requesting  to  return  home  to  their  re- 
spective countries. 


13 


CHAPTER  XII. 

"  Let  China  unfold  her  rich  gems  to  the  View, 

Each  virtue,  each  joy  to  improve  — 
O  give  me  the  fireside  that  I  know  to  he  true, 

And  the  fair  that  I  tenderly  love. 
What 's  glory  hut  pride  ?  —  a  vain  bubble  is  fame  ; 
What  'a  riches  but  trouble  —  and  titles,  a  name  ? " 

Description  of  Macao — Deaths — Leave  Macao — Toon- 
koo  Bay — Account  of  Canton — Chinese  Customs,  &c. 
— The  Bumboat — Death  and  Epitaph. 

Macao  is  a  Portuguese  settlement.  It  is  sit- 
uated in  22°  11'  north  latitude,  and  111°  32' 
east  longitude,  on  a  rocky  peninsula.  It  was 
renowned  for  its  safe  harbor  long  before  the 
Portuguese  settled  on  it.  Two  principal  ranges 
of  hills,  one  running  from  north  to  south,  the 
other  from  east  to  west,  may  be  considered  as 
forming  an  angle,  the  base  of  which  leans 
upon  the  river,  or  anchoring  place.  The  level 
ground,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  habitations 
of  European  architecture,  is  filled  by  the  ba- 
zar, and  a  great    many   Chinese     shops,  for 


MACA.0 DEATHS.  147 

tradesmen  and  mechanics.  The  stranger's  at- 
tention is  roused  by  a  variety  of  public  and 
private  buildings,  raised  on  the  declivities, 
skirts  and  heights  of  hillocks. 

Macao  is  rendered  wholesome  and  comfort- 
able by  the  regular  monsoon  winds  and  its 
streams  of  salubrious  water,  in  addition  to  the 
benefit  of  a  well-stocked  bazar.  It  is  now 
and  then  (but  seldom)  shaken  by  the  convul- 
sions of  earthquakes,  but  is  oftener  visited  by 
dreadful  typhoons,  a  species  of  hurricanes. 

The  John  Adams  arrived  on  the  2 1st  May, 
from  Manilla.  She  had  remained  there  in  ex- 
pectation of  our  touching  at  that  port,  but,  in 
consequence  of  our  non-arrival,  left  again. 

Sickness  still  hung  over  our  ship,  with  undi- 
minished intensity.  We  lost  five  more  of  the 
crew  while  remaining  here.  These  frequent 
deaths  completely  absorbed  us  in  melancholy 
reflections.  It  was  no  longer  to  be  doubted 
that  this  scourge,  the  dysentery,  which  pre- 
vailed on  board,  had  of  late  assumed  an  alarm- 
ing and  fatal  character. 

Our  frigate  laid  at  anchor  about  eight  miles 
from  the  town,  in  a  solitary  position.  On  cast- 
ing our  eyes  on  shore,  they  were  at  once  fixed 
on  a  mountainous  coast;  the  sea  at  times  gently 


148  LEAVE   MACAO TO.ONKOO   BAY. 

agitated,  at  other  times  a  calm  reigned  over 
the  solitary  waters.  But  this  calm  of  external 
nature  accorded  ill  with  the  painful  feelings 
which  agitated  us,  on  so  frequently  beholding 
the  earthly  remains  of  a  departed  shipmate 
passed  over  the  gangway,  to  be  conveyed  to  its 
last  mournful  home. 

On  the  loth  of  June  we  left  Macao,  with  the 
John  Adams,  and  proceeded  to  Toonkoo  bay, 
a  distance  of  forty  miles,  where  both  ships  an- 
chored the  same  afternoon.  This  bay  affords 
excellent  anchorage  for  shipping,  and  is  com- 
pletely surrounded  with  mountainous  islands. 

The  water  we  had  supplied  the  ship  with  at 
Macao  not  being  considered  wholesome,  was 
started,  and  we  commenced  watering  the  ship 
afresh.  A  smart-sailing  schooner,  named  the 
Rose,  was  also  chartered  to  act  as  a  tender  to 
the  ships.  This  chance,  in  addition  to  our  de- 
tention for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  ships 
with  provisions  and  water,  afforded  an  excel- 
lent opportunity  to  many  to  employ  their  lei- 
sure time  by  paying  a  visit  to  Canton,  —  an 
opportunity  which  was  embraced  by  many. 

That  city  is  situated  seventy-five  miles  above 
Macao,  in  23°  7  north  latitude,  and  113°  7' 
east  longitude.     It  is  the  largest  port  in  China, 


ACCOTJNT   OF  CANTON.  149 

and  the  only  one  that  has  been  much  fre- 
quented by  Europeans.  The  city  walls  are 
about  five  miles  in  circumference,  with  very 
pleasant  walks  around  it.  The  city  is  entered 
by  several  iron  gates,  and  within  side  of  each 
there  is  a  guard-house. 

The  streets  of  Canton  are  very  straight,  but 
generally  narrow,  paved  with  flag-stones. 

There  are  many  pretty  buildings  in  this  city, 
great  numbers  of  triumphal  arches,  and  tem- 
ples well  stocked  with  images.  It  is  computed 
that  there  are  in  this  city  and  its  suburbs 
1,200,000  inhabitants,  and  there  are  often  8000 
trading  vessels  lying  before  the  city. 

The  streets  of  Canton  are  so  crowded,  that 
it  is  difficult  to  walk  in  them  ;  yet  a  woman,  of 
any  fashion,  is  seldom  to  be  seen,  unless  by 
chance,  when  coming  out  of  her  ehair. 

There  are  some  hills  adjacent  to  the  city  of 
Canton,  on  which  forts  are  built,  and  from 
which  you  have  a  fine  prospect  of  the  country, 
which  is  beautifully  interspersed  with  moun- 
tains, little  hills  and  valleys,  all  green  ;  and  these 
are  pleasantly  diversified  with  small  towns, 
villages,  high  towers,  temples,  the  seats  of  man- 
darins and  other  great  men,  which  are  watered 
with  delightful  lakes,  canals,  and  small  branches 
13* 


150  CHINESE    CUSTOMS. 

from  the  river  Tay,  on  which  are  numberless 
boats  and  junks,  sailing  through  the  most  fer- 
tile parts  of  the  country.  There  are  also  many 
private  walks  about  the  skirts  of  the  town, 
where  those  of  the  better  sort  have  their  houses, 
which  are  very  little  frequented  by  Europeans, 
whose  business  lies  chiefly  in  the  trading  part 
of  the  city,  where  there  are  only  shops  and 
warehouses.  The  shops  of  those  who  deal  in 
silks  are  very  neat,  make  a  fine  show,  and  are 
all  in  one  place. 

The  Chinese,  in  their  persons,  are  of  the 
middle  size,  their  faces  broad,  their  eyes  black 
and  small,  their  noses  blunt,  and  turned  up- 
wards. They  have  high  cheek-bones  and  large 
lips.  They  pluck  up  the  hairs  of  the  lower 
part  of  their  faces  by  the  roots,  with  tweezers, 
leaving  a  few  straggling  ones  by  way  of  beard  ; 
and  my  reader  must  allow  that  "  different  coun- 
tries have  different  fashions."  A  face,  titivated 
off  in  this  style,  would  look  particularly  awk- 
ward, surrounded  by  the  rolling  collar  of  a 
long  tailed  blue,  as  worn  at  home  nowadays 
by  our  modern  dandies.  Corpulence  is  es- 
teemed a  beauty  in  a  man,  but  considered  as  a 
palpable  blemish  in  the  fair  sex,  who  particu- 
larly aim   at  preserving  a  delicacy  of  shape 


GREAT  WALL  OF  CHINA.         151 

and  slimness  of  body.  The  women  have  usual- 
ly a  peculiarly  arched  eyebrow,  —  as  much  the 
effect  of  art  as  nature,  —  a  very  unmeaning 
face,  and,  among  the  higher  classes,  exceed- 
ingly small  feet,  from  the  tight  pressure,  during 
infancy,  of  small  wooden  shoes. 

According  to  Chinese  history,  this  custom 
originated  several  centuries  back,  when  a  large 
body  of  females  rose,  and  endeavored  to  over- 
throw the  government.  To  prevent  the  recur- 
rence of  such  an  event,  the  use  of  wooden 
shoes  was  employed  on  all  female  infants,  so 
small  as  to  disable  them,  without  great  pain,  to 
make  use  of  their  feet.  This  custom  has  now 
become  so  familiar,  from  lon£  usaoe,  that  a 
small  foot  is  reckoned  one  of  the  greatest  at- 
tractions  a  Chinese  female  possibly  can  pos- 
sess. 

The  most  remarkable  of  the  remains  of 
antiquity  in  the  Chinese  empire,  is  the  great 
wall  separating  China  from  Tartary.  It  is 
supposed  to  extend  from  twelve  to  fiftaen  hun- 
dred miles,  carried  over  mountains  and  valleys. 
It  is  in  most  places  built  of  brick  and  mortar, 
which  is  so  well  tempered,  that,  though  it  has 
stood  more  than  two  thousand  years,  it  is  but 
little  decayed.  The  wall  is  from  twenty  to 
twenty-five   feet  high,   flanked  with  towers  at 


152  THE  BUMBOAT. 

the  distance  of  almost  every  hundred  yards, 
which  add  to  its  strength,  and  render  it  much 
easier  to  be  defended.  It  is  wide  enough  for 
six  horsemen  to  travel  abreast. 

Having  viewed  all  that  possibly  could  be  seen 
of  the  city  of  Canton,  —  many  of  whose  curios- 
ities are  debarred  from  the  sight  of  the  stran- 
ger, —  our  parties  returned  to  the  frigate,  laying 
in  Toonkoo  bay. 

A  transaction  took  place,  while  laying  here, 
which  excited  at  the    time   much  commisera- 
tion for  the   parties  concerned,  the  immediate 
sufferers  on  the  occasion.     A  large  boat,  sup- 
plied with  a  variety  of  articles,  and  termed  a 
bumboat,  had  been  in  the  habit  of  coming  along- 
side  daily,   for  the   purpose   of  vending   com- 
modities   to   the    mariners,   in    despite    of  the 
prohibition  to  the  contrary  from  the  mandarins, 
who  had  issued  an  especial  order,  that  no  boat 
whatever,    from    the    shore,   should    have    any 
intercourse  with  any  foreign   shipping,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  stop  being  put  to  trade,  arising 
from  the  opium  business.     By  this  decree,  they 
had   even    extended    their    resentment    to    the 
poorer  classes  of  their  own   country.     By  this 
prohibition  the  proprietors  of  boats  were   de- 
prived of  their  daily  subsistence,  as  their  sole 
dependence  rested  upon  their  personal  exer- 


THE   EUMBOAT.  153 

tions  in  these  boats,  which  to  them  was  their 
home,  their  all,  their  every  thing,  and  in  which 
there  are  many  thousands  who  received  their 
first  breath,  and  as  many  part  with  it  again  in 
them,  after  having  run  the  usual  course  of 
nature.  In  fact,  the  rivers  are  covered  with 
them.  They  are  of  various  sizes  and  construc- 
tions :  the  owners,  who  are  of  the  poorer 
classes,  generally  reside  in  them,  and  they 
have  no  further  communication  with  the  shore 
than  necessity  absolutely  compels. 

They  are  covered  over  in  the  after  part  with 
a  kind  of  bamboo  matting,  sufficiently  strong 
and  water-proof  to  keep  out  the  rain,  and  of 
length  sufficient  to  allow  them  to  lie  down,  un- 
exposed  to  sight.  These  poor  creatures,  from 
being  confined  in  so  small  a  space,  and  accus- 
tomed to  squat  upon  their  hams,  are  generally 
very  awkward  in  their  movements  when  upon 
their  feet.  Their  male  children  are  taught  the 
art  of  swimming  as  soon  as  they  know  the  use 
of  their  legs,  until  which  time  they  wear  a  cala- 
bash suspended  round  their  necks,  to  buoy 
them  up  in  case  of  their  falling  overboard. 

Now  the  authorities  having  ascertained  that 
there  were  many  of  these  boatmen  who  were 
in  the  habit  of  communicating  with  the  differ- 
ent  shipping,  had  put  their  officers  on  the  alert, 


154  DEATH    OF  THE   ARMORER. 

for  the  purpose  of  apprehending;  and  bringing 
before  them  all  persons  so  offending.  The 
boat  which  used  to  attend  upon  our  ship,  was 
among  the  number  taken.  Her  crew  consisted 
of  the  proprietor,  his  wife  and  child,  and  three 
men  to  assist  in  working  her.  These  harbin- 
gers of  justice  —  "  heaven  bless  the  mark  !  " — 
not  only  deprived  them  of  their  boat  and  its 
contents,  but  also  detained  the  woman  and 
child.  The  men  were  fortunate  enough  to  es- 
cape. I  say  fortunate,  and  not  without  reason, 
as  by  that  means  only  they  escaped  some 
severe  punishment  ;  for  there  is  no  country 
under  heaven  where  persons  putting  the  laws 
at  defiance,  even  in  the  most  trifling  manner, 
are  punished  with  greater  severity  than  in 
China. 

I  have  omitted  to  remark  that  on  the  day 
after  our  arrival  in  Toonkoo  bay,  we  lost  the 
armorer,  named  Henry  Fry,  by  that  still  preva- 
lent disorder,  the  dysentery.  He  will  long  be 
remembered  by  his  shipmates  as  the  Yorick  of 
the  ship.  His  loss  was  sincerely  regretted  by 
those  who  were  devotees  at  the  shrine  of  the 
merry  god,  Momus  ;  for  many's  the  time  and 
oft  he  was  wont  to  set  their  risible  muscles  in 
motion,  with  his  crack  jokes  and  tough  yarns, 
which  he  knew  very  well  how  to  extend,  (a  la 


EPITAPH.  155 

mode  Munchausen.)  As  the  following  lines 
may  not  be  thought  amiss,  by  way  of  an  epi- 
taph, sacred  to  the  memory  of  one  who  knew 
how  to  beguile  away  many  a  wearisome  watch 
at  sea,  I  here  subjoin  them  : 

EPITAPH  OX  FRY,  THE  ARMORER. 

With  the  nerves  of  a  Samson,  this  son  of  the  sledge, 

By  .the  anvil  his  livelihood  got ; 
"With  the  skill  of  a  Vulcan  could  temper  an  edge, 

And  strike  —  while  the  iron  was  hot. 

By  forging  he  lived,  yet  never  was  tried 

Or  condemned  by  the  laws  of  the  land ; 
But  still  it  is  certain,  and  can't  be  denied, 

He  often  was  burnt  in  the  hand. 

"With  the  sons  of  St.  Crispin  no  kindred  he  claimed } 

"With  the  last  he  had  nothing  to  do ; 
He  handled  no  awl —  and  yet  in  his  time 

Made  many  an  excellent  shoe. 

He  blew  up  no  coals  of  sedition,  but  still 

His  bellows  were  always  in  blast; 
And  I  will  acknowledge,  (deny  it  who  will,) 

That  one  vice,  and  but  one,  he  possessed. 

No  actor  was  he,  nor  concerned  with  the  stage ; 

No  audience  to  awe  him  appeared ; 
Yet  oft  in  his  work  —  like  a  crowd  in  a  rage  — 

The  loud  murmur  of  hissing  was  heard. 


156  EPITAPH. 

The  steeling  of  axes  was  part  of  his  laws ; 

In  thieving  he  never  was  found  ; 
And  though  he  was  constantly  beating  on  bars, 

No  vessel  he  e'er  ran  aground. 

Alas !  and  alack !  what  more  can  I'say 

Of  Vulcan's  unfortunate  son  ? 
The  priest  and  his  messmates  have  born  him  away, 

And  the  sound  of  his  hammer  is  done. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

List,  ye  landsmen,  all  to  me  ; 
Messmates,  hear  a  brother  sailor 
Tell  the  dangers  of  the  sea. 

Sea  Song. 

The  sea,  the  sea  ; 
The  open,  open  sea. 

An  agreeable  Surprise — Loss  of  a  Friend— His  Character, 
&c. — A  sad  Accident — Man  killed — Fourth  of  July — 
Leave  Toonkoo  Bay — Caught  in  a  Typhoon — Account 
of  the  same — Our  Losses — Mischief  done — Sailors' 
Opinion  of  the  Weather — A  very  unpleasant  Prospect — 
A  Lee  Shore — Ship  drifting — The  Storm  breaks — A' 
friendly  Opinion. 

I  was  most  agreeably  surprised,  on  the  30th 
of  June,  while  looking  through  one  of  the 
ports,  on  the  gun-deck,  to  see  our  old  bumboat, 
which  had  been  taken  a  few  days  before  by 
the  officers  of  justice,  once  more  alongside 
the  ship,  the  owner  looking  over  her  side,  grin- 
ning like  the  head  of  an  old  fiddle,  and  returning 
the  nod  of  recognition  to  our  wonder-struck 
mariners,  who  by  this  time  had  fancied  he 
would  have  been  squeezed  as  fiat  as  a  pancake, 
14 


158  LOSS    OF    A   FRIEND. 

between  two  boards,  the  usual  method  of  pun- 
ishment for  criminal  offences  in  China.  His 
boat  had  been  returned  to  him,  through  the 
interference  of  some  person,  in  the  proper 
quarter,  so  that  he  was  fully  reinstated  once 
more  in  his  personal  property,  as  well  as  his 
matrimonial  enjoyments,  by  the  restitution  of 
his  belter  half;  that  is  to  say,  his  wife  and 
child. 

That  cruel  scourge,  the  dysentery,  still  car- 
ried on  its  baneful  work  among  our  ship's 
company,  while  remaining  here,  five  of  whom 
fell  victims,  from  the  period  of  the  armorer's 
decease,  to  its  rancorous  effects.  In  this  un- 
fortunate number,  I  lost  a  highly-gifted,  tal- 
ented, and  valued  friend,  named  Samuel  S. 
Penrose,  of  Philadelphia,  Pa.  a  corporal  in 
the  marine  guard,  one  who,  for  his  estimable 
qualities,  merited  the  encomium  of  the  immor- 
tal bard  : 

(t  Take  him  for  all  in  all, 
I  ne'er  shall  look  upon  his  like  again." 

In  recalling  the  past  to  memory,  it  is  ever 
painful  to  the  feelings,  to  have  to  regret  the 
loss  of  one  to  whom  we  were  cemented  in  the 
firmest  bonds  of  friendship.  In  the  present 
instance,   that    feeling  appertains    to    me,    al- 


LOSS   OF  A  FRIEND.  159 

though  my  deceased  friend  followed  but  an 
humble  capacity  through  his  voyage  of  human 
life.  He  was  ennobled  with  a  soul,  and  en- 
dowed with  natural  gifts  and  talents,  which 
would  have  done  him  honor  in  a  higher  sphere. 
He  conducted  himself  in  such  a  manner,  by 
his  general  principles  through  life,  as  would 
ensure  him  a  safe  anchorage  in  the  celestial 
port  of  heaven,  when  at  the  last  day,  as  the 
poet  sublimely  expresses, 

"  Yon  cloud-capped  towers, 
Ye  gorgeous  palaces, 
Ye  solemn  temples, 
Nay,  the  great  globe  itself, 
And  all  which  it  inherits,  shall 
Dissolve  ;  and,  like  the  baseless 
Fabric  of  a  vision,  leave 
Not  a  wreck  behind/' 

None  surpassed  him,  and  but  few  equaled 
him,  in  the  exhibition  of  those  kindly  feelings 
of  head  and  heart,  which  ennoble  the  human 
character,  and  endear  man  to  man.  He  bore 
the  pangs  and  privations  of  sickness  with  un- 
shrinking fortitude,  except  at  momentary  inter- 
vals, when  his  scattered  thoughts  might  natu- 
rally  wander  from  his  sufferings  to  the  beloved 
wife  of  his  bosom,  and  soon  to  be  fatherless 
babes.     He   relied,  in  his  last  moments,  upon 


160  LOSS   OF  A  FRIEND. 

that  God's  mercies  whose  divine  Son  died  to 
save  all,  and  with  m  horn  I  trust  he  is  now 
enjoying  the  reward  of  the  righteous.  The 
ways  of  Divine  Providence  are  as  intricate 
as  just,  and  it  does  not  behoove  man  to  repine 
at  its  decrees,  as  we  are  led  to  believe  that 
whatever  the  supreme  Creator  ordains  is  for 
the  best.  Yet  there  is,  at  times,  a  latent  spark 
of  anguish,  which  cannot  fail  to  kindle  at  the 
loss  of  a  relative  or  friend.  I  ever  considered 
Penrose  as  a  friend.  Many  a  tedious  and 
wearisome  hour  we  have  spent  in  each  other's 
society,  in  our  watch  on  deck,  relating  to  each 
other  the  scenes  of  our  earlier  years,  from  boy- 
hood up  to  manhood.  Of  a  fine  night,  we 
have  passed  the  time  together  upon  the  ocean, 
surveying  the  bright  luminary  of  night,  travers- 
ing the  starry  hemisphere  in  all  her  majesty. 
A  scene  like  this,  was  ever  congenial  to  our 
feelings,  for 

"  This  was  a  realm  of  solitude, — 
A  season  and  a  scene  for  thought, 
"When  melancholy  well  may  brood 
On  years  that  now  are  not." 

I  cannot  refrain  from  heaving  a  sigh  to  the 
memory  of  departed  worth  and  friendship,  as 
well  as  expressing  my  sorrow  for   the   afflicted 


A   SAD  ACCIDENT.  161 

widow,  and  her  fatherless  babes,  who  are,  as 
yet,  unacqainted  with  their  great  and  bitter 
loss.  His  remains  were  interred  upon  Toon- 
koo  Island;  and,  when  leaving  the  ship,  no 
feelings  of  sympathy  could  be  felt  more  acutely, 
not  even  by  those  to  whom  he  was  allied  by 
kindred,  in  a  far  distant  land. 

On  the   3d   of  July,   a  lamentable   accident 
took  place,  which  terminated  in  the  death  of  a 
young  man,  named  William  Reeves.    Although 
I  have  seen  men  die  from  various   causes,  such 
as  cholera,  small-pox,  and  other   epidemic  dis- 
eases ;  although  I  have  seen  men  hurled  in  an 
instant  into  eternity,  both  on  shore   and  at  sea, 
yet  of  all  the  deaths  I  was  ever  witness  to,  this 
one  tended  to  make  the  deepest  impression  on 
my  mind,  and   will   ever  be    indelibly  stamped 
upon  my  memory.    It  was  about  1,  P.  M.  that  I 
was  standing  in  the  larboard  gangway,  looking 
at   two    of   the    crew   who    were    playing    at 
checkers,  when  the  conversation  between  them 
happened  to  turn  to  the  near  approach  of  the 
4th   of  July,  one  of  them   at   the  same  time 
making  use   of  the  prevalent  expression,   "  I 
wonder   where  we  will  be,  at  this  time,  next 
year."      "In     Philadelphia,"    responded    the 
other.    "  I  hope  so,"  repeated  the  former,  "for 
I  should  much  like  to  be  there  to-day." 
14* 


162  A   SAD  ACCIDENT. 

At  this  moment,  the  boatswain  and  his  mates 
summoned  all  hands  to  furl  sails  ;  the  order  was 
given  to  lay   aloft   for    that  purpose.      In  the 
midst  of,  and  while  employed  in  this  necessary 
duty,  our  attention  was  aroused  by  a  death-like 
scream,  and   a  sudden  plunge   into  the   water. 
"A  man  overboard  !  "  was  immediately  vocifer- 
ated by  upwards  of  a  hundred  voices;  and  all 
was  hurry   and   confusion  towards  the   imme- 
diate scene  of  the  accident.     It  appeared  that 
the  unfortunate  man  was  stationed  on  the  main 
yard,   at    furling   sails,    and    had   incautiously 
taken  both  hands  to  haul  his  gasket,  or  fasten- 
ing taught  round  the  sail,  forgetting  the  old  sea 
maxim,  of    "  One   hand  for    myself,   and    the 
other  for  the  ship."     The  gasket  broke,  and  he 
was   precipitated    from    the    main    yard    over- 
board, striking  the  corner  of  the   main  chains 
in  his  descent,  his  head  coming  in  contact  with 
the  same,  dashing  out  his  brains,   previous  to 
the  body  bounding  into  the  water,  when  it  sunk 
to    rise    no    more.      An    elderly    man,   named 
James  Allen,  jumped  overboard,  on  the  instant, 
to  recover  the  body,  if  possible  ;  but  his  lauda- 
ble efforts  were  fruitless,  as  it  eluded  his  grasp. 
Reader !    the  unfortunate  man  lost  was  one 
of  the  two  concerned  in  the  previous  conversa- 
tion, and  who  expected   to  be  in  Philadelphia 


FOURTH   OF  JULY.  163 

the  next  year.  This  unfortunate  incident  veri- 
fied the  saying,  that  "  in  the  midst  of  life  we 
are  in  death." 

This  unfortunate  occurrence  damped  the 
spirits  of  every  one  ;  for,  though  the  sailors  are 
men  of  rough  habits,  their  feelings  are  not  so 
coarse  but  that  they  can  feel  on  an  occasion  like 
this.  If  they  possess  little  feeling,  or  worldly 
consideration,  they  are  likewise  very  free  from 
selfishness.  Generally  speaking,  they  are 
much  attached  to  one  another,  and  will  make 
great  sacrifices  to  their  mess  or  shipmates, 
when  opportunities  occur. 

On  the  following  day,  it  being  the  4th  of 
July,  the  frigate  was  dressed  out,  and  orna- 
mented with  the  colors  of  all  nations  ;  and  at 
meridian  a  salute  was  fired,  to  commemorate 
the  anniversary  of  the  day  on  which  the  sons 
of  Columbia  declared  their  national  independ- 
ence. Our  salute  was  returned  by  the  John 
Adams,  which  ship  was  also  decorated  in  a 
similar  manner. 

From  this  period,  until  the  time  we  left 
Toonkoo  bay,  nothing  of  any  particular  inter- 
est transpired,  with  the  exception  of  several 
American  merchant  ships  calling  in  from  Can- 
ton, and  sailing  again  for  the  United  States, 
affording  us  various  opportunities  of  sending 
letters  home. 


164  ACCOUNT    OF    THE  TYPHOON. 

Having  by  this  time  victualed  and  supplied 
the  ship  with  water,  on  the  6th  of  August  we 
got  under  way  from  this  place,  and  stood  out 
to  sea,  bound  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  with 
the  John  Adams  in  company,  favored  by  mod- 
erate breezes  and  clear,  pleasant  weather, 
which,  however,  was  destined  to  be  but  of  short 
duration. 

As  the  sun  sunk  below  the  horizon,  on  the 
following  day,  the  7th  inst.  the  thick,  murky 
clouds  that  arose,  sailed  alonu;  with  their  ed*je 
as  well  defined  as  if  it  had  been  a  dark  screen, 
gradually  shoving  up  and  across  the  arch  of 
the  blue  sky  ;  and,  as  they  crept  over  the  hori- 
zon, every  thing  assumed  a  deep,  dusky,  purple 
hue,  which  tended  to  heighten  the  gloominess 
of  the  scene.  At  9,  P.  M.  a  low  murmuring 
on  the  surface  of  the  water  gave  the  indica- 
tion of  the  approach  of  a  squall  ;  but  whether 
of  wind  or  rain,  or  both,  was  yet  to  be  ascer- 
tained. Our  doubts  upon  the  subject  were 
soon  put  to  an  end,  by  finding  ourselves  in  the 
midst  of  it,  blowing  as  if  the  god  ^Eolus  him- 
self was  heading  the  fray  ;  while  Aquarius,  the 
water-bearer,  was  likewise  bestowing  a  bless- 
ing upon  us,  by  a  bountiful  supply  of  rain, 
which  came  down  in  torrent*  upon  our  heads. 
This  was  only  the  prelude  to  the  business  ;  for, 


ACCOUNT   OF   THE  TYPHOON.  165 

at  10,  P.  M.  a  heavy  and  sudden  gust  of  wind 
split  and  rent  to  tatters  the  topsails,  courses, 
and  other  sails.  This  incident  was  the  fore- 
runner and  commencement  of  a  most  violent 
storm  ;  for,  by  this  time, 

"  Foreboding  gloom  o'erspread  the  watery  plain ; 
Dim  was  the  sky,  and  silence  reigned  profound; 
Rent  were  the  sails,  while  the  big,  hot  rain, 

Commixed  with  squalls,  began  to  patter  round." 

Quick  as  thought  the  tattered  sails  were 
clewed  up  ;  men  aloft  to  unbend  them,  and 
those  deemed  the  most  necessary  were  sent 
down  and  replaced  by  others.  All  this  was 
but  the  woik  of  a  short  time,  considering  the 
various  difficulties  appertaining  to  the  opera- 
tions, which  we  had  to  encounter  from  the 
darkness  of  the  scene  around  us,  which  was 
only  interrupted  at  intervals  by  the  long  and 
vivid  flashes  of  lightning,  which,  on  its  exit, 
tended  to  make  the  scene  more  gloomy  and 
dark  than  ever,  and  casting  a  shade,  when  ap- 
pearing on  our  countenances,  of  a  fiery  hue, 
that  I  almost  fancied  myself  transformed  from 
an  earthly  being,  and  had  recently  crossed  the 
river  Styx,  for  the  Pandemonium  of  Pluto. 
All  was  anxiety  and  confusion  until  daylight, 
the  following  morning,  which  was,  in  our  pres- 


166      sailor's  opinion  of  the  weather. 

ent  situation,  the  greatest  blessing  that  could 
be  bestowed  upon  us.  Some  were  now  ac- 
tively employed  in  unbending  sails,  and  bend- 
ing others  in  their  places.  Some  reeving  fresh 
running  gear  ;  others,  lashing  boats  and  spars 
afresh,  which  had  been  jerked  from  their  usual 
places  by  the  violent  pitching  of  the  ship,  aris- 
ing from  the  heavy  swell  of  the  sea,  which  at 
this  time  was  running  mountains  high.  The 
wind  was  still  blowing  a  furious  gale  ;  and,  not 
being  able  to  carry  sail,  the  ship  was  laid  to, 
under  mizzen  and  main  storm  staysails.  The 
wreck  was  cleared,  as  well  as  circumstances 
would  allow,  from  the  violent  motion  of  the 
ship  ;  and  I  could  but  admire  the  perfect  cool- 
ness with  which  every  order  was  given,  as  well 
as  the  alacrity  shown  in  obeying  it. 

The  same  evening,  I  was  amused  with  the 
following  conversation,  which  took  place  be- 
tween two  weather-beaten  tars,  and  which  com- 
menced as  follows  : 

"  Well,  Bill,  what  do  you  think  of  it  1  " 

"  Hard  times.  It  blows  a  regular  snorter— 
don't  it  ?  M 

"  Why,  yes,  it  does,"  answers  Bill. 

"  But  what  a  pucker  they  must  be  in,  in 
York  now,  in  a  breeze  like  this,  with  the  chim- 
ney-pots clattering  about  their  upper  rigging. 


LEE-SHORE— SHIP  DRIFTING.  167 

For  my  part,  do  you  see  as  how  I'd  sooner  be 
where  I  am,  in  a  tight  ship,  and  plenty  of  sea- 
room  to  knock  about  in." 

Notwithstanding  the  attendant  circumstan- 
ces,  I  could  not  refrain  from  smiling ;  but 
found,  on  the  following  morning,  that  the  latter 
observation  of  my  shipmates,  respecting  plenty 
of  sea-room,  was  rather  erroneous,  as  we  were 
under  the  unpleasant  necessity  of  beholding 
the  land  to  leeward.  We  also  discovered  that 
one  of  our  boats  had  been  washed  from  the 
stern  by  the  violence  of  the  waves,  and  we 
had  also  lost  the  main  royal-mast,  and  sprung 
main  trysail-mast  by  the  fury  of  the  gale. 
The  internal  damage  done  did  not  of  itself 
so  much  obtrude  upon  my  bewildered  senses, 
as  the  dreary  prospects  placed  before  my  eyes 
of  a  lee  shore,  and  that,  too,  upon  a  rocky  and 
dangerous  coast,  with  the  ship,  our  whole  and 
sole  protection,  still  laying  to,  and  drifting  to- 
wards it.  Divine  Providence,  however,  in  his 
mercy,  intervened,  and  ordained  to  save  us  ; 
for,  at  9,  A.  M.  the  weather  began  to  break, 
and, though 

"  Long  raged  the  storm  and  raved,  its  lurid  dye 

Mantling  both  sea  and  heaven,  with  aspect  wild, 
At  length  the  chaos  cleared,  and  azure  sky, 
Even  like  young  day,  when  born  of  darkness,  smiled." 


168  A    FRIENDLY    OPINION. 

The  wind  began  to  moderate  by  degrees : 
the  rain  had  ceased,  and  the  loud  rumbling: 
noise  of  the  distant  thunder  was  heard  no 
more.  More  sail  was  put  upon  the  ship,  which 
bore  us  joyfully  from  our  impending  danger, — 
a  lee  shore,  on  the  coast  of  China. 

In  the  course  of  a  short  time,  our  exertions 
were  crowned  with  the  pleasing  gratification 
of  beholding  every  thing  in  ship-shape  ;  that  is, 
in  its  proper  place  and  position. 

In  the  midst  of  the  storm,  I  imagined  to 
myself,  if  some  of  my  more  domesticated 
friends  at  home  had  been  with  me  for  a  short 
time,  I  can  venture  to  say  they  would  never 
wish  to  make  their  second  appearance  as  an 
actor  upon  the  boards,  in  the  nautical  drama 
of  a  typhoon  or  Chinese  hurricane. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

When  as  the  midnight  watch  I  keep, 

I  view  the  sparkling  sea  ; 
While  round  my  messmates  careless  sleep, 

Dear  girl,  I  fondly  think  of  thee. 
Remembrance  paints  the  last  adieu, 
When  you  loudly  wept,  and  sobbed, — "  be  true." 

Island  of  Formosa — Marines  and  Mariners — Muster  the 
Watch — Laughable  Mistake— Moonlight  Scene  at  Sea 
— A  cruel  Scene — The  Man  overboard — Cross  the  Me- 
ridian — Change  the  Time — Arithmetic  in  Matrimony 
— Make  the  Sandwich  Islands — Afflicting  Scenes  of 
Death  during  the  passage — Arrive  at  Oahu — Anchor 
off  Honolulu. 

From  the  period  in  which  we  had  encoun- 
tered the  heavy  storm,  until  the  14th  of  August, 
nothing  particular  transpired  worthy  of  notice, 
more  than  occasionally  sighting  several  small 
islands,  with  which  these  seas  are  generally 
known  to  abound. 

On  this  day  we  were  close  in  with  the  island 

of  Formosa,  situated  90  miles  east,  of  Canton, 

and    lies  in  between   119°  and   122°    of  east 

longitude,  and  22°  and  25°  north  latitude.     It 

15 


170  MARINERS  AND   MARINES. 

is  subject  to  the  Chinese,  who,  notwithstanding 
its  proximity,  did  not  know  of  its  existence 
till  the  year  1430.  It  is  about  85  leagues  in 
length,  and  25  in  breadth,  with  a  chain  of 
mountains  running  from  north  to  south,  which 
divide  it  into  two  parts. 

A  few  nights  afterwards,  I  was  an  eye-wit- 
ness to  a  scene,  it  being  my  watch  out,  which 
for  the  time  much  amused  me,  taking  place 
between  a  boatswain's  mate,  and  a  person,  who 
shall  be  nameless,  attached  to  the  marine 
guard. 

I  would  first  wish  to  inform  my  reader  that, 
though  the  words  marine  and  mariner  differ 
by  one  small  letter  only,  there  are  no  two  races 
of  men  differ  from  another  more  completely, 
than  the  jollies  and  the  johnnies.  The  marines 
are  usually  enlisted  for  a  longer  period,  as  in 
the  army,  and,  when  not  employed  afloat,  are 
kept  in  the  barracks,  in  such  constant  training, 
under  the  direction  of  their  officers,  that  they 
are  never  relieved  for  one  moment  from  the 
influence  of  strict  discipline  and  obedience. 

The  sailors,  on  the  contrary,  when  their  ship 
is  paid  off,  are  turned  adrift,  and  so  completely 
scattered  abroad  that  they  generally  lose,  in  the 
riotous  dissipation  of  a  few  weeks,  or  it  may 
be  days,   all  they  have   learned  of  good   order 


MUSTER    THE    WATCH.  171 

during  the  previous  three  or  four  years.  Even 
when  both  parties  are  placed  on  board  of  a 
ship,  and  the  general  discipline  maintained  in 
its  fullest  operation,  the  influence  of  regular 
order  and  exact  subordination  is  at  least  twice 
as  great  over  the  marines  as  the  sailors.  Many, 
I  may  say  most,  of  their  duties  are  entirely  dif- 
ferent. It  is  true  both  the  marines  and  seamen 
pull  and  haul  at  certain  ropes  leading  along  the 
quarter-deck  ;  both  assist  in  scrubbing  and 
washing  decks  ;  both  eat  salt  junk  and  drink 
grog,  sleep  in  hammocks,  and  keep  watch  at 
night ;  but  in  almost  every  other  thing  they 
differ. 

As  far  as  the  marines  are  concerned,  the 
sails  would  never  be  let  fall,  reefed,  or  rolled 
up:  there  is,  I  believe,  even  a  positive  navy  or- 
der against  their  being  made  to  go  aloft. 

The  ludicrous  incident  alluded  to,  transpired 
a  few  minutes  after  midnight.  The  starboard 
watch  had  been  called,  the  larboard  relieved, 
and  the  former  gone  through  the  regular  and 
usual  ordeal  of  muster,  to  ascertain  whether  any 
were  missing,  by  being  still  in  their  hammocks, 
snugly  moored  in  blanket  bay,  and  not  think- 
ing of  the  requisition  for  their  services  on 
deck.  Now  there  chanced  to  be  two  individu- 
als on  board  of  the  ship  similar  in  name,  though 


172  LAUGHAELE    MISTAKE. 

very  dissimilar  in  occupations;  the  one  being 
a  mariner,  attached  to  the  "blue-jacket  "  corps, 
the  other  a  marine,  belonging  to  that  body  of 
men  from  which  he  derived  this  particular  ap- 
pellation. On  mustering  the  watch,  the  "  blue- 
jacket "  was  found  to  be  an  absentee  from  the 
duties  of  his  watch  ;  but  at  that  time  he  was 
sick  in  his  hammock,  on  the  doctor's  list, 
which  exempted  him  from  duty.  This  circum- 
stance was  not  known  to  the  officer  who  had 
mustered  them.  The  other  person  bearing  a 
similar  name  was  also  excused  from  the  night- 
watch,  in  consequence  of  the  peculiar  duties  he 
had  to  attend  to  throughout  the  day.  The 
word  was  passed  for  the  "  blue-jacket,"  and 
the  lungs  of  the  boatswain's  mate  were  put  in 
full  force  in  calling  the  name  of  this  poor  in- 
valid and  solitary  individual,  who  made  no  an- 
swer. But  the  marine,  on  hearing  the  loud 
repetition  of  his  name,  bolted  upright  in  his 
hammock,  looking  the  picture  of  astonishment, 
and  answered  with  a  spontaneous  "  Halloo  !  " 
and  "  what  the  devil  do  you  want  1  "  "  O,  you 
are  there,  are  you  ?  "  replied  Pipes,  ignorant 
who  the  responser  might  be.  ■■  You  had  bet- 
ter "  halloo,"  and  make  a  move  on  deck  ;  for 
if  I  come  athwart  your  hawse,  I  '11  give  you 
such  a  starting  as  will    bring  salt  water  tears 


MOONLIGHT    SCENE    AT  SEA.  173 

into  your  eyes,  and  let  you  know  what  't  is  to 
skin  a  live  eel  for  supper." 

The  marine,  who  was  completely  thunder- 
struck on  hearing  this  threat,  immediately  an- 
swered, "  If  I  do  go  on  deck,  I  do  ;  but  if  I  do, 
I  hope  to  be  d — d  ;  and  if  you  venture  to  come 
within  musket  shot  of  me,  for  the  purpose  of 
using  your  fly-flapper,  you  will  find  me  fully 
prepared  to  give  you  a  crack  on  your  knowledge- 
box  that  shall  raise  a  bump  that  will  astound 
and  astonish  the  most  learned  in  phrenological 
science."  By  this  time  it  was  found  to  be  a  mis- 
take, and  the  affair  ended. 

On  the  25th  inst.  we  were  in  sight  of  the 
island  of  Tunachi,  situated  on  the  coast  of  Ja- 
pan. These  islands  are  numerous,  and  lie 
about  150  miles  east  of  China,  between  the 
30th  and  41st  degrees  of  north  latitude,  and  be- 
tween   the    130th    and  142d  of  east  longitude. 

The  next  morning,  about  1  o'clock,  my 
watch  being  on  deck,  I  was  relieved  by  a 
messmate,  who  informed  me  that  another  of 
our  friends  was  drawing  near  the  close  of  his 
earthly  career.  The  moon  had  just  risen,  and 
cast  a  long,  trembling  wake  of  silver  light  on 
the  surface  of  the  water,  sparkling  like  dia- 
monds in  the  distance,  while  the  darkened  half 
of  her  disk  was  as  perfectly  visible  as  if  it  had 
15* 


174  A    DYING    SHIPMATE. 

been  half  silver  and  half  bronze.  Her  mild 
light,  however,  was  not  strong  enough  to 
quench  the  host  of  glittering  stars  that  studded 
the  arched  firmament,  which  was  without  a 
cloud.  I  was  contemplating  the  gorgeous 
scenery  before  me,  which  was  adapted  to  ele- 
vate the  thoughts  "  from  nature  up  to  nature's 
God,"  when  this  startlino-  intelligence  of  the 
situation  of  our  friend  was  communicated  to 
me.  I  immediately  proceeded  to  his  cot,  which 
was  hanging  on  the  berth-deck,  and  on  view- 
ing the  scene  around  me,  entered  into  a  new 
train  of  reflections,  on  the  uncertainty  of  hu- 
man life,  reminding  me  of  some  lines  which  I 
had  perused  when  a  boy,  and  which  appeared 
well  adapted  to  the  present  scene. 

"  At  this  still  hour  of  night,  when  the  clouds  are  dark  and 

deep, 
And  all  the  stars  sealed  up,  the  world  asleep, 
Stretched  on  pallet  low,  behold  my  shipmate  lies, 
With  fever  stricken  frame,  and  hollow  eyes  ; 
Now,  while  wild  phantoms  whirl  his  throbbing  brain, 
I  watch  his  slumbers,  and  strive  t'  allay  his  pain ; 
Exert  my  utmost  to  fill  up  life's  contracted  span 
"With  kindliest  offices  to  this  my  fellow-man." 

Words  are  inadequate  to  express  in  terms 
sufficiently  forcible  the  horrors  of  the  scene  by 
which  I  am  at  present  surrounded.     My  poor 


A    CRUEL    SCENE.  175 

messmate,  William  Dean,  lias  just  breathed  his 
last,  and  yielded  up  his  soul  to  his  Maker.  He 
is  now  under  the  half-deck,  laid  out  in  his  best 
clothes,  aud  covered  with  the  national  colors. 
There  are  upwards  of  120  men  still  lying  in 
their  cots,  most  of  them  absolutely  dying  for 
want  of  proper  sustenance.  God  in  heaven  ! 
what  was  the  reason  proper  stores,  and  plenty 
of  them,  were  not  laid  in  for  these  unfortunate 
sick  men  ?  Most  of  their  daily  rations  allowed 
by  government  have  been  stopped  by  the  sur- 
geon and  his  assistants.  What  has  become  of 
the  money  ?  Why  not  expend  it  upon  the  sick, 
and  dispense  with  the  wine  in  the  cockpit, 
which  should  have  been  bestowed  upon  the 
sick  and  weak  ? 

These  are  facts  which  can  be  proved,  to  the 
disgrace  of  those  who  were  their  cause. 

This  morning,  at  1  o'clock,  I  was  an  observer 
of  a  scene  which  would  actually  have  disgust- 
ed and  disgraced  the  most  unfeeling  monster 
that  was  ever  suffered  to  walk  upon  the  face  of 
the  earth.  Painful  as  it  is  to  my  feelings  to 
expose  one  who  walks  in  a  high  and  responsi- 
ble situation  of  life,  I  consider  it  a  duty  I  owe 
the  world  at  large  to  do  so,  when  I  see  that  man 
disgrace  that  responsibility,  and  trample  under 
foot  all  the  laws  and  rights  of  civilized  human- 


176  A    CRUEL    SCENE. 

ity.  The  deed  I  am  about  to  relate  was  com" 
mitted  by  the  commodore,  with  the  most  cool 
deliberation,  and  took  place  as  follows  : 

The  commodore  was  walking  on  the  weather 
side  of  the  quarter-deck  with  the  officer  of  the 
watch,  and  through  the  latter  an  order  was 
given  to  take  the  second  reef  in  the  main  top- 
sail. The  topmen,  who  were  not  already  aloft, 
lay  up  for  that  purpose  ;  and  In  consequence  of 
not  being  smart  enough  in  reefing  the  sail,  the 
whole,  to  the  number  of  thirteen,  were  called 
down,  and  were  then  and  there  told  by  the 
commodore  that  they  were  a  set  of  lazy  sons  of 
b — rs.  These  men,  my  readers,  could  scarcely 
crawl  round  the  decks,  that  is  comparatively 
speaking,  the  greater  part  of  them  ;  as  at  this 
period  nearly  the  whole  of  the  ship's  compa- 
ny was  laid  down  with  the  dysentery,  and 
were  dying  daily,  frequently  to  the  number 
of  two,  or  sometimes  three. 

For  this  affliction  of  the  Almighty,  no  allow- 
ance was  made  by  this  humane  commander  ; 
but  he  swore  he  would  flog  every  one  of  them. 
The  threat  was  immediately  put  in  execution  ; 
the  gratings  were  rigged,  quarter-masters  and 
boatswain's  mates  called,  men  stripped  and 
seized  up,  and  suffered  the  disgraceful  castiga- 
tion,   while  their  bones  were  actually  coming 


A    CRUEL    SCENE. 


177 


through  their  skins,  and  their  emaciated  forms 
trembling  from  weakness,  the  effect  of  long- 
continued  and  wasting  disease. 

The  reflection  of  the  moon  at  times  gave  me 
an  opportunity  of  looking  up  in  the  face  of 
this  sea-monster — for  what  else  can  1  term  him  1 
— and  nothing  met  my  gaze  but  the  linea- 
ments of  pride,   hatred,   and   revenge. 

A  few  days  after  this  disgraceful  transaction, 
he  ordered  all  the  sick  in  the  ship  on  the  quar- 
ter-deck, and  plainly  told  them  that  the  greater 
part  of  them  were  a  set  of  skulking  sons  of 
b — s,  and  he  only  wished  he  could  take  them 
back  again  to  Toonkoo  bay,  where  they  might 
die  and  be  d — d. 

I  would  wish  to  ask  if  this  conduct  is  to  be 
or  will  be  tolerated  by  any  laws,  either  martial 
or  civil  ?  Will  not  some  authority  take  cogni- 
zance of  it  ?  These  facts  can  be  proved  by  up- 
wards of  three  hundred  men  now  in  the  city  of 
Boston. 

We  continued  on  our  passage  from  this  pe- 
riod with  steady  breezes,  and  at  times  rather 
chilly  weather,  as  we  had  been  stretching  away 
to  the  northward,  when  the  wind  would  enable 
us  so  to  do. 

On  the  21st  of  Sept.  at  7,  A.  M.  I  had  seat- 
ed myself  on  one  of  the  cannonade  slides,  and, 


1^8  THE    MAN    OVERBOARD. 

ere  many  minutes  expired,  had  sunk  into  an  ab- 
stracted yet  not  unusual  revery,  musing  over 
the  past,  the  present,  and  making  a  fruitless 
endeavor  to  fathom  the  future,  when  I  was 
suddenly  startled  by  the  cry  of  a  "  man  over- 
board !  "  and  yet  astonished,  by  the  calm, 
collected  conduct,  and  self-possession  of  the 
officer  of  the  deck,  who  immediately  cried 
out,  "  Cut  away  the  life  buoy  !  let  go  the 
lee  main  and  topsail  braces  !  man  the  main 
clew  garnets  and  buntlines  !  up  main-sail  ! 
call  away  the  larboard  quarter-boat  !  "  The 
boat  was  manned,  and  an  officer  jumped  in, 
and  pulled  away  to  save  the  drowning  man, 
who  in  the  mean  time  was  safely  hauled  on 
board,  by  means  of  a  rope  from  the  fore  chains, 
puffing  and  blowing  like  a  grampus;  and  on 
finding  himself  once  more  standing  upon  a 
solid  footing,  exclaimed,  "  Arrah-boy,  don't 
bother  me  ;  long  life  and  prosperity  to  that 
good  old  motto,  which  says,  sure  '  a  man  that's 
born  to  be  hanged  will  never  be  drowned,' — 
not  that  I  intend  to  be  exalted  so  high,  at  all  at 
all,  but  leave  that,  peculiar  situation  for  my 
betters.  Och,  sure,  do  you  think  I  don't  know 
what  good  breeding  manes — thank  God,  old 
Davey  Jones  hasn't  got  his  grip  on  me  yet,  and 
I  hope  to  spend  many  a  day,  sure,  in  my  father's 


CHANGE    THE    TIME.  179 

mud   edifice,    blessed    with   the    smiles  of  my 
charming  Kathleen,  for  och,  sure 

"  Love  is  the  soul  of  a  nate  Irishman. 
He  loves  all  the  lovely  j  loves  all  that  he  can, 
With  his  sprig  of  shelalagh  and  shamrock  so  green." 

On  the  26th  of  September,  in  consequence 
of  having  crossed  the  meridian  of  180°,  we 
added  twenty-four  hours  to  our  time,  making 
two  Thursdays  in  the  week,  as  also  two  similar 
dates  in  the  month.  This  digression  from  the 
usual  course  of  old  father  Time  very  much 
puzzled  the  brain-box  of  a  great  many,  who 
were  not  quite  so  learned  as  Sir  Isaac  Newton, 
in  astrological  observations,  and  the  other  inci- 
dents attending  the  earth's  diurnal  motion.  In 
fact,  there  were  many  curious  observations 
passed,  among  the  men,  on  this  circumstance. 
Some  saying,  as  there  was  another  day  added 
to  the  black  book  of  fate,  there  ought  to  be  a'n 
extra  daily  allowance  of  provisions  and  grog 
served  out,  so  as  not  to  allow  old  father  Time  to 
get  a  point  to  windward  of  them.  One,  in 
particular,  on  being  asked  the  reason  of  the 
change,  very  laconically  answered,  he  did  not 
know  or  care,  for  he  always  left  those  matters 
to  his  wife,  who  was  more  learned  on  those 
points   than  himself,   for  she  had    once    com- 


180  ARITHMETIC    IN    MATRIMONY. 

pletely  puzzled  him  with  her  proficiency  in  an 
affair  of  this  kind.  It  appeared,  from  the  ex- 
planation given,  that  three  months  after  he 
had  entered  into  the  holy  banns  of  matrimony, 
he  was  blessed  by  his  partner  with  a  chopping 
boy,  giving  him  an  undisputed  title  to  be  called 
papa.  This  unlooked-for  event  took  place  on 
his  return  home  from  a  short  trip  to  sea  of 
about  ten  or  eleven  weeks.  He  said  that  he 
thought  there  was  a  mistake  in  his  wife's  log, 
some  how  or  another,  and  immediately  put  a 
question  to  her  upon  the  subject,  wishing  to 
know  how  the  dickens  she  could  make  nine 
months  out  of  three.  "  Why,  you  great  fool," 
she  replied,  "have  /not  been  lawfully  married 
to  you  [worse  luck]  three  months?"  "Yes; 
have  not  you  been  married  to  me  three  months  V' 
"  True."  "  Well,  does  not  three  and  three 
make  six?  "  "  Certainly."  "  You  have  been 
to  sea  three  more  months,  which,  added  to  the 
six,  makes  nine.  You  cruel  fellow,  for  sus- 
pecting me,  and  allowing  the  devil  to  put  non- 
sense into  your  head."  My  poor  shipmate  was 
completely  puzzled  by  this  rule  of  arithmetic. 
He  says  all  he  could  do  was  to  scratch  his 
head,  say  that's  all  right,  bless  God  for  giving 
him  such  a  scholar  for  a  wife.  And  from  that 
day  of  reckoning  he  had  not,  nor  ever  would, 


AFFLICTING    SCENES    OF    DEATH.      .         181 

bother    his    brains    about   time,    either   in    the 
shape  of  days,  weeks,  or  months. 

Nothing  particular  transpired,  until  the  6th 
of  October,  when  we  made  Atooi,  one  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  the  north  end  bearing  E.  S.  E. 
On  the  following  day,  we  also  saw  the  islands 
of  Tooati  and  Morotoi,  and  on  the  9th  discov- 
ered the  island  of  Oahu,  but  did  not  come  to 
an  anchor  until  the  next  day,  when  we  brought 
up  off  the  town  of  Honolulu,  after  a  passage 
of  sixty-six  days  from  our  last  port,  during 
which  time  that  cruel  scourge,  the  dysentery, 
snatched  away  twenty-five  more  of  our  crew  to 
the  realms  of  death,  and  upwards  of  sixty  more 
individuals  lying  down  on  a  bed  of  sickness, 
arising  from  its  woful  effects. 

It  would  be  actually  a  matter  of  impossibil- 
ity to  describe,  in  language  sufficiently  forcible, 
the  state  of  my  own  feelings  on  this  painful 
and  mournful  occasion,  to  behold  my  ship- 
mates, most  of  them  in  the  earliest  bud  of 
youth,  snatched  away  to  the  dreary  mansions 
of  the  king  of  terrors,  and  not  unfrequently  to 
the  number  of  two  or  three  each  day. 

Nothing  but  the  most  despairing  regret   was 

to  be  seen   on  the   countenances  of  all:     Cast 

my  eyes  which  way  I  would,  nothing  met  their 

glance  but  the  cheerless  prospect  of  the  wasted 

16 


182  MELANCHOLY    CONDITION. 

form,  the  pallid  countenance,  the  hollow 
cheek,  or  sunken  eye  of  my  dying  companions, 
with  all  the  paraphernalia  of  sickness  attend- 
ant on  human  nature,  at  its  last  stage  of  mortal 
existence.  That  man  must  indeed  he  callous 
to  the  more  refined  feelings  of  the  human 
heart,  who  could  witness  a  scene  like  this  in 
silence  or  unmoved  ;  it  tended  to  impress  the 
mind  with  more  than  religious  awe,  in  viewing 
this  general  wreck  of  human  nature. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

Give  honor  to  their  memories  who  left  the  pleasant  strand, 
And  died  on  board  a  ship  of  war,  far  from  their  native  land  :' 
Who  left  their  chance  of  quiet  age,  and  grassy  church-yard  grave, 
To  leave  their  ashes  on  a  foreign  shore,  or  amidst  the  tossing  wave. 

Author. 

Salutes,  Visits,  &c. — The  Missionary- — Account  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands — Description  of  Honolulu — Manners, 
Customs,  Dress,  &c.  of  the  Natives — The  King's  Visit 
— A  short  sketch  of  Nautical  Life,  with  an  unfeeling 
Transaction. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival,  we  adopted  the 
usual  custom  of  firing  a  salute,  which  was  re- 
turned by  the  fort  at  Honolulu.  The  like  com- 
pliment was  also  paid  to  the  American,  Brit- 
ish, and  French  consuls,  who  visited  the  ship. 
The  John  Adams,  from  which  we  had  parted 
company  several  days  before,  also  arrived,  and 
came  to  anchor.  On  the  first  Sunday  after 
our  arrival,  one  of  the  American  missionaries 
came  on  board,  and,  after  the  usual  course  of 
prayers  had  been  read,  delivered  a  very  impres- 
sive discourse. 

I  could  not  fail  to  notice   his  concluding  re- 


184  ACCOUNT    OF    SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

marks,  wherein  he  stated  that  the  period  of 
twenty  years  had  nearly  elapsed  since  he  had 
left  the  wharves  of  Boston,  as  an  humble  mes- 
senger of  the  divine  word,  and  during  that 
time  upwards  of  18,000  of  the  natives  of  these 
islands,  who  had  previously  been  living  in  a 
state  of  the  most  barbarous  ignorance,  had 
been  converted  to  a  state  of  religious  civiliza- 
tion, and  a  knowledge  of  the  holy  gospel.  This 
observation  could  but  please  the  feelings  of  the 
true  Christian  ;  as  at  the  same  time  it  reminded 
me  of  the  words  of  Pope,  who  says, 

Father  of  all,  in  every  age, 

In  every  clime  adored ; 
By  saint,  by  savage,  or  by  sage — 

Jehovah,  Jove,  or  Lord. 

The  Sandwich  Islands,  of  which  Oahu  is 
one,  are  a  group  situated  in  the  South  Sea, 
among  the  last  discoveries  of  Captain  Cook, 
who  so  named  them  in  honor  of  the  Earl  of 
Sandwich,  under  whose  administration  these 
discoveries  were  made.  They  are  eleven  in 
number,  extending  in  latitude  from  18°  54' 
to  22°  15'  north,  and  in  longitude  from  150° 
54'  to  150°  24'  west.  They  are  called  by 
the  natives,  Owhyee,  Mowee,  Ramai,  Mor- 
otoi,  Taonka,  Oahu,  (where  we  were  laying,) 
Atooi,    Neeheehow,    Morotoi,    and     Tahoora, 


ACCOUNT    OF    SANDWICH    ISLANDS.  185 

all   inhabited,  with   the   exception   of  the  two 
last. 

The  island  of  Oahu,  is  imagined  to  be  the 
finest  one  of  the  whole  group.  It  is  seven 
leagues  northwest  of  Morotoi,  and  is  supposed 
to  contain  upwards  of  60,000  inhabitants. 

Honolulu,  the  principal  town  of  this  island, 
is  not  only  the  capital,  but  is  also  the  chief 
residence  of  the  king  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 
It  is  irregularly  laid  out,  the  houses  being  en- 
closed by  adobes  ;  that  is,  large  blocks  of  sun- 
dried  clay,  and  its  aspect  is  rendered  very 
cheerless,  by  being  almost  entirely  without 
trees. 

Most  of  the  houses  are  composed  of  a  sort 
of  thatch,  and  in  form  much  resemble  ricks  of 
sun-burnt  hay.  The  population  of  this  town 
is  supposed  to  be  between  six  and  seven  thou- 
sand, of  which  number  there  are  a  great  many 
foreigners,  chiefly  Americans,  engaged  in  trade. 

The  original  inhabitants,  or  more  properly 
termed  the  Kenackers,  as  far  as  their  means 
will  allow,  ape  the  costumes  of  foreigners,  so 
that  the  street  scenes  in  this  place  are  as  vari- 
ous as  they  are  grotesque.  For  instance,  you 
will  see  some  entirely  naked,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a  garment,  which  is  very  small,  being 
merely  a  string  about  the  loins,  to  support  a 
16* 


186  HORSE  RACE. 

fold  of  native  cloth,  worn  perpendicularly  be- 
tween the  limbs,  which  is  called  a  tappah. 
Others,  in  addition  to  this,  will  add  an  old 
cast-off  vest,  coat,  pantaloons,  or  shirt,  and, 
with  either  one  of  these  articles,  consider 
themselves  in  full  dress. 

The  women  generally  wear  a  loose  slip,  or 
gown,  and  are  particularly  fond  of  stringing 
flowers  into  necklaces,  and  other  fanciful  orna- 
ments. Very  few  of  them  will  encumber  their 
feet  with  shoes  or  stockings,  but  at  the  same 
time  display  well  tatooed  ankles.  Their  com- 
plexion is  olive,  and  their  general  appearance, 
on  the  whole,  is  agreeable. 

I  was  one  day  an  eye-witness  to  a  scene  on 
shore,  which  gave  me  a  convincing  proof,  also, 
of  their  strength  of  nerve  and  activity, — a 
scene  which  tended  not  only  to  amuse,  but  per- 
fectly astonished  me.  It  was  a  horse  race, 
which  took  place  on  a  level  plain,  the  competi- 
tors being  two  respectable  merchants,  (as  I  was 
informed,)  on  the  one  side,  and  two  good-look- 
ing girls,  about  seventeen  years  of  age,  on 
the  other.  The  horses,  which  were  thorough- 
bred Hawaiian  coursers,  were  owned  by  some 
of  the  nabobs  of  the  island,  who  were  the  prin- 
cipal supporters  of  the  turf.  The  prize  to  be 
contended  for  was  a  purse  of  fifty  dollars. 


HORSE  RACE.  187 

The  usual  notice  having  been  given,  that  the 
king  would  preside  at  the  sports  of  the  day,  on 
his  arrival  with  Governor  Boki,  the  signal  was 
given,  and  the  steeds  entered  the  field  of  com- 
petition, arrayed  in  very  gaudy,  yet  tawdry 
trappings.  Next  came  the  twoKenacker  girls, 
and  took  their  stations  at  the  starting  post, 
after  giving  a  sudden  spring  into  their  saddles, 
with  the  most  perfect  ease  and  nonchalance. 
They  were  in  a  perfect  state  of  nudity,  with 
the  exception  of  a  tappah, —  a  small  piece  of 
ribband  which  fastened  their  hair  behind,  and 
large  bracelets  and  anklets.  At  the  same 
time,  I  noticed  the  various  ornamental  devices 
which  were  tatooed  on  their  ankles.  There 
they  sat  until  the  time  of  starting,  seated  in  the 
same  position,  as  all  chevaliers  are  when  on 
horseback,  looking  like  two  of  the  sylph-formed 
nymphs  of  chaste  Diana's  train,  arrayed  in 
nature's  sweetest  charms,  and  blushing  like  the 
mountain  rose.  At  the  appointed  signal,  away 
they  all  started  at  full  tilt,  and  with  the  utmost 
speed  ;  the  male  competitors  at  first  taking  the 
lead,  which  I  regretted  to  see,  as  the  wishes  of 
the  greater  part  of  the  spectators  were  for  the 
success  of  the  fair  Amazonians.  Those  wishes 
were  gratified  ;  for,  after  running  about  a  mile, 
they  passed  their  opponents,  putting  their  pant- 


188  the  king's  visit. 

ing  steeds  to  their  utmost  mettle,  keeping  the 
distance  they  had  gained,  until  the  conclusion 
of  the  race,  which  they  won  in  a  most  gallant 
style.  Their  equestrian  skill  and  agility  met 
with  the  success  it  deserved  ;  and  I  could  but 
fancy  that  the  defeated  parties  might  have 
found  some  other  amusement,  than  risking 
their  own  necks,  and  that  of  these  two  poor 
girls,  independent  of  the  little  honor  that  would 
have  accrued  to  them,  had  they  gained  the 
race.  The  shame  of  defeat  was  something 
like  a  dose  of  castor-oil,  difficult  to  be  gulped 
down  ;  and  they  left  the  course,  completely 
mortified  and  crest-fallen,  at,  their  being  de- 
feated by  two  women. 

On  the  24th  inst.  the  king  of  these  islands, 
accompanied  by  his  sister  and  retinue,  visited 
the  ship.  On  his  arrival,  the  yards  were 
manned,  and  a  salute  fired,  of  twenty-one  guns. 
He  appeared  to  be  about  25  years  of  age,  of  a 
colored  complexion,  expressive  features,  and 
on  the  whole  rather  good  looking.  He  was 
dressed  in  full  uniform,  consisting  of  a  hand- 
some blue  cloth  coat,  with  scarlet  facings,  a 
pair  of  splendid  and  very  large  gold  epaulets, 
white  vest,  fawn-colored  trowsers,  and  cocked 
hat,  ornamented  with  a  cockade  and  gold  lace. 
I  also  remarked   the   splendid  scabbard   which 


DRESS. 


189 


hung  by  his  side,  containing  his  sword,  which 
was  of  the  first  workmanship.  There  was 
nothing  remarkable  in  the  appearance  of  his 
retinue  ;  they  were  habited  in  the  European 
costume  also,  (tout  (i  la  militaire,)  reminding 
me  of  the  dress  of  the  French  gens  d' amies. 
On  the  whole,  the  confinement  of  their  limbs 
in  clothing,  seemed  to  be  irksome  ;  and  I  veraa 
much  doubt  if  they  would  not  rather  be  clothed 
in  their  birth-day  suit,  as  they  were  whtbi  these 
islands  were  first  discovered. 

The  kind's  sister  was  also  dressed  in  the 
European  style.  At  a  distance,  she  forcibly 
reminded  me  of  one  of  our  modern  belles  ;  her 
dress  would  have  done  credit  to  a  first-rate 
milliner,  and  she  appeared  as  though  she  had 
been  turned  out  of  a  bandbox,  off  hand,  with- 
out spot  or  blemish.  I  regret  much  I  could  not 
meet  with  an  opportunity  to  view  her  counte- 
tenance,  as  I  am  myself  a  great  admirer  of  the 
fair  sex, — that  is,  as  far  as  is  consistent  with 
politeness,  and  those  attentions  which  their 
delicacy  of  nature  so  peculiarly  demand  at  our 
hands. 

In  perusing  the  following  sketch,  I  would  wish 
mv  readers  to  know  that  I  do  not  write  it  from 
any  fit  of  spleen  or  malice,  or  from  any  private 
injury  that  /may  have  sustained,  but  to  aid  in 


190 


NAUTICAL    LIFE. 


imprinting  indelibly  on  my  memory  the  impres- 
sion made  by  a  cruise  around  the  world,  on 
board  of  a  man  of  war,  and  likewise  to  serve 
me  as  a  caution,  ever  to  be  aware  of  the  un- 
principled arts  of  the  abandoned  and  profli- 
gate. I  trust  my  better  sense  and  judgment 
will  so  model  my  feelings,  as  to  take  an  exam- 
ple by  the  conduct  and  general  behavior  of 
those  who  walk  in  a  higher  sphere  of  nautical 
life,  and  by  whom  I  am  at  present  surrounded. 
There  is,  my  reader,  a  vast  difference  in  the 
respective  situations  of  a  citizen,  and  that  man 
who  is  doomed  to  wander  from  one  confine 
of  the  earth  to  the  other,  and  who  is  only  to 
be  compared  to  a  bird  of  passage.  He  who 
exists  within  the  precincts  of  a  city,  amid  the 
noisy  din,  and  brawling  of  the  multitude,  en- 
gaged in  their  various  daily  occupations,  can,  if 
so  inclined,  collect  to  himself  a  few  moments 
in  the  course  of  the  day,  or  at  least  the  night, 
when  he  can  withdraw  from  the  bustle  and  tur- 
moil, attendant  on  business,  and  seclude  him- 
self from  the  gaze  of  the  vulgar,  and  indulge  in 
his  own  thoughts,  feelings,  sorrows,  or  passions, 
without  fear  of  being  scoffed  at  by  the  mali- 
cious, the  ignorant,  or  the  slanderer.  He 
exists  in  the  bosom  of  his  family,  surrounded, 
as  circumstances  may  be,  by  his  parents,  wife, 


NAUTICAL    LIFE.  191 

children,  brothers,  sisters,  and  friends,  enjoy- 
ing the  sweet  tranquillity  of  domestic  happi- 
ness. Now,  my  reader,  "  mark  the  contrast." 
The  man  pursuing  his  career  of  life  on  the 
bosom  of  the  wide  and  expansive  ocean,  on 
board  of  a  man  of  war,  is  differently  situated. 
There  is  no  retiring  from  the  crowd,  no  such 
thing  as  seclusion,  no  going  beyond  the  sound  of 
cursing  and  blasphemy,  no  time  or  place  for  con- 
templating and  admiring  the  beauties  of  n-ature. 
That  alone  is  unlike  all  other  situations  of  life, 
and  I  can  only  compare  it  to  the  world  in  min- 
iature ;  it  in  reality  being  a  world  of  itself. 
Truly  did  Shakspeare  speak,  when  he  said, 

£:  All  the  world  's  a  stage, 
And  men  and  women  merely  players." 

Here  are  collected  together,  in  one  vast  as- 
semblage, a  body  of  men,  from  the  true  gen- 
tleman to  the  lowest  vagabond  ;  from  the  reli- 
gious to  the  blasphemer.  In  fact,  a  community 
of  this  kind  consists  of  men  of  eveiy  descrip- 
tion, including  the  abandoned  and  profligate. 
Here  are  to  be  found  the  thief,  the  seducer,  the 
gambler,  the  drunkard,  and  the  unfortunate 
exile  or  wanderer.  Here,  also,  is  to  be  found 
the  man  of  honesty,  the  man  of  honor,  the 
truly    religious,  and  the  truly  temperate.     Also 


192  UNFEELING    TRANSACTION. 

here  is  to  be  found  the  man  of  unbiased  prin- 
ciples, who  would  not  swerve  from  his  duty  at 
any  price.  Various  are  the  enormities  which 
are  daily  committed  on  board  of  a  ship  of  war. 
I  will  merely  note  one  as  an  illustration, 
whereby  an  idea  may  be  formed,  respecting 
the  character  of  the  greater  ones.  The  cir- 
cumstance to  which  I  am  alluding  came  under 
my  observation  a  few  evenings  since,  while 
laying  in  this  harbor ;  and  I  can  positively 
assure  my  readers,  that  I  do  not  insert  it  from 
any  injury  sustained  on  my  part,  more  than 
regret  of  feeling,  at  seeing,  and  being  obligated 
to  be  an  eye-witness  of  such  cold,  brutish,  and 
reckless  depravity,  inherent  among  many,  at  the 
time  a  fellow-mortal  was  in  the  ao-onies  of  death. 
On  the  evening  of  this  day,  after  the  sun- 
down drum  had  rolled  off  beat  to  quarters,  and 
sounded  the  retreat,  tiie  night  pennant  hoisted, 
also  the  hammocks  piped  down,  hung  up,  and 
the  crew  dispersed  in  different  directions,  I 
seated  myself  on  one  of  the  shot-boxes  between 
two  of  the  guns  on  the  spar-deck.  It  was  now 
twilight ;  the  sun  was  just  sinking  in  the  hori- 
zon, the  beautiful  refulgent  clouds,  with  their 
variegated  hues  forming  a  vast  canopy,  raised 
to  a  great  height  in  the  centre,  gradually  de- 
clining as  the  eye  extended,  until  it  finally  shut 


UNFEELING  TRANSACTION.         193 

down  on  the  ocean.  All  around  formed  one 
vast  variegated  dome,  recalling  vividly  to  my 
mind  the  romances  of  the  Houris,  and  the 
fairy  land  that  I  used  to  peruse  in  my  boyish 
days.  While  admiring  this  beautiful  scene,  my 
attention  was  aroused  by  the  sound  of  revelry 
proceeding  from  forward.  I  instantly,  from 
motives  of  curiosity,  proceeded  to  the  scene  of 
merriment,  where  I  found  a  gang  of  twenty  or 
thirty  engaged  in  singing,  or  rather  roaring, 
in  a  boisterous  manner.  Proceeding  farther,  I 
found  several  others  engaged  in  dancing,  I  was 
about  to  say;  but  there  I  should  be  wrong,  as 
it  was  only  an  apology  for  that  polite  recrea- 
tion, so  I  will  say  kicking  up  their  heels,  as 
gracefully  as  young  bears,  stamping  heavily  on 
the  deck  to  various  tunes  played  from  an  old 
fiddle. 

There  was  still  another  scene,  and  one  of  a 
much  more  serious  nature,  at  this  particular 
time,  transpiring  under  the  half  deck, — a  scene 
which  ought  to  have  impressed  upon  the  minds 
of  these  reckless,  thoughtless,  and  cold-hearted 
individuals  ideas  of  a  different  description 
than  those  to  be  derived  from  revelry  and  mer- 
riment. A  solitary  individual  was  here  stand- 
ing by  the  side  of  a  cot,  at  the  foot  of  which  a 
lantern  was  suspended  by  a  rope-yarn,  while 
17 


194  UNFEELING    TRANSACTION. 

the  faint  rays  which  it  emitted  fell  upon  the 
pale  features  of  an  emaciated  being,  in  the  last 
agonies  of  death,  on  the  eve  of  being  ushered 
into  eternity,  without  a  friend  to  soothe  his 
dying  moments,  or  a  hand  to  alleviate  his  suffer- 
ings, save  the  coarse  attentions  of  a  rough 
messmate  ;  no  voice  imparting  consolation  to 
his  ear,  no  sound  save  the  heedless  merriment 
of  those  whom  I  have  already  noticed. 

This  is  only  one  of  the  many  similar  occur- 
rences which  transpire  daily  on  board  of  a 
man  of  war,  where  power  is  unbounded,  and 
one  absolute  will  reigns  unchecked. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

All  the  world  'a  a  stage,  and  men  and  women 

Merely  players.  — 

They  have  their  exits  and  their  entrances  ; 

And  one  man  in  Ms  time  plays 

Many  part-.  Shakspeare. 

Moralizing— On  Men  and  Manners— More  Deaths — Dis- 
agreeable Word— C me  for  the  Scurvy— My  humble 
Opinion— Principal  Diet  of  the  Islanders— Manner  of 
Cooking— John  Adams  leaky — Whale  Ships— Opinion 
of  a  Blubber  Hunter. 

The  reader  of  this  humble  work  must  excuse 
me  for  continuing  the  subject  with  which  I 
concluded  the  last  chapter.  No  doubt  there 
are  many  who  will  say,  "  Is  it  possible  that  a 
man  who  follows  the  sea,  especially  on  board 
of  a  man  of  war,  can  thus  moralize  upon  the 
infirmities  of  the  human  mind  1  '  I  respect- 
fully answer  them,  "  Yes  ;  such  a  man  am  I ; 
driven,  by  domestic  troubles  and  afflictions,  an 
unwilling  exile  from  my  native  land,  —  not 
from  any  point  of  crime,  but  those  misfortunes 
usually  attendant  on  too  much  generosity  of 
principles."     Therefore  I  trust  my  readers   will 


196  MORALIZING. 

excuse  me  for  continuing  my  moralizing  a 
little  farther.  I  have  surveyed  men  and  man- 
ners, as  they  are,  where  I  am  at  present  situ- 
ated :  and  I  will  now  place  myself  in  each 
respective  character  to  be  found  here,  to  con- 
vince my  readers  what  I  wish  men  and  man- 
ners should  be. 

First,  —  the  gentleman.  In  attempting  to 
personate  this  character,  I  may  be  thought 
ambitious.  Let  it  be  so.  Had  it  pleased 
Providence  to  have  placed  me  in  a  sphere  of 
life  different  from  my  present  one,  I  flatter 
myself  the  urbanity  of  my  general  disposition 
and  refinement  of  manners,  would  have  gained 
me  the  estimation  of  my  superiors,  the  love 
and  regard  of  my  equals,  and  the  most  defer- 
ential respect  from  my  inferiors.  Even  in  my 
humble  walk  of  life,  I  have  always  shown  def- 
erence to  the  former,  good  and  friendly  regard 
for  the  second,  and,  from  a  natural  feeling 
I  possess,  which  sets  aside  all  distinction  be- 
tween me  and  my  fellow-men,  unless  on  a 
point  of  duty,  I  have  ever  been  respected  by 
the  third  and  last.  When  a  man  is  placed  in 
a  station  over  his  fellow-men,  it  rests  entirely 
with  himself  to  be  either  loved  and  respected, 
or  hated  and  despised.  If  the  former,  the  prin- 
ciple to   be  adopted   is,  if  possible,  to  amelio- 


TvIORALIZING.  197 

rate  the  situation  of  those  under  him  by  every 
kind  attention  within  his  power;  redress  their 
grievances,  and,  if  they  themselves  are  the 
offending  party,  not  to  condemn  unheard,  or 
punish  without  the  strongest  and  most  evident 
proofs  of  their  guilt.  For,  when  a  spiteful  or 
malicious  man,  placed  in  a  situation  over  his 
fellow-men,  and  endowed  with  a  trifling  power, 
has  a  mind  to  glut  his  appetite  in  any  respect, 
innocence,  or  even  merit,  is  no  protection 
against  him.  The  cries  of  justice  and  the 
voice  of  reason  are  of  no  effect  upon  a  con- 
science hardened  in  malice,  and  a  mind  versed 
in  a  long  practice  of  tyranny  and  oppression. 
Remonstrances,  however  reasonably  urged,  or 
movingly  couched,  have  no  more  influence 
upon  the  heart  of  such  a  man,  than  the  gentle 
breeze  has  upon  the  oak,  when  it  whispers 
through  its  branches,  or  the  rising  surges  upon 
the  deaf  rock,  when  they  dash  and  break 
against  its  side. 

Persons  should  never  be  entrusted  with  pow- 
er, who  have  more  regard  to  the  gratification 
of  their  own  resentful  feelings  than  to  peace 
and  justice,  and  who  will  turn  a  deaf  ear  to 
those  who  are  placed  in  a  more  humble  walk 
of  life  than  themselves,  although  their  cause, 
at  the  same  time,  may  be  founded  on  the  basis 
IT* 


198  MORALIZING. 

of  truth  and  justice ;  in  proof  of  which,  this 
morning  I  saw  a  man,  named  Thomas  Hodson, 
punished  for  one  of  the  most  ludicrous  things 
imaginable.  Lieutenant  Palmer  was  officer 
of  the  watch.  He  is  one  of  those  persons 
who  consider  none  so  good-looking  or  well- 
informed  as  themselves, — a  regular  ivould-be 
modern  dandy.  In  fact,  at  times,  according  to 
the  way  he  struts,  the  deck  is  scarcely  good 
enough  for  him  to  walk  upon.  He  is  nick- 
named "  the  lady-killer  "  by  the  crew,  in  con- 
sequence of  his  pride  and  dandyism. 

The  man  above  alluded  to  had  been  into  the 
head,  and  on  his  exit  from  the  same  left  the 
door  open,  which  was  perceived  by  the  officer, 
who  immediately  called  him  aft  to  the  main- 
mast, and  asked  him  how  he  dared  to  presume 
to  leave  that  door  open,  when  he  was  officer  of 
the  deck  ;  at  the  same  time  sending  for  a  boat- 
swain's mate,  and  bidding  Tom  stand  up  to 
receive  the  lashes.  Poor  Tom  tried  to  excuse 
himself,  but  it  was  of  no  use.  Lieutenant 
Palmer  would  not  hear  a  word.  The  offence 
was  too  heinous,  to  his  very  delicate  and  sen- 
sitive smelling  organs ;  so,  tucking  his  lingers 
into  the  pockets  of  his  waistcoat,  he  exclaimed, 
"You  be  d — d,  sir!  stand  up  there."  Tom 
stood  up,  took  his  "  dowry,"  and  made  his  exit, 


MORALIZING.  199 

exclaiming,  when  out  of  hearing,  "  Why  does 
not  that  lady-kilier  carry  a  bottle  of  eau  de 
Cologne  in  his  pocket  1  " 

I  consider  this  the  worst  place  that  ever 
a  man  made  his  appearance  in  for  the  sake  of 
bettering  his  circumstances,  if  he  has  run  away 
with  the  foolish  idea  that  he  could  do  so  by  his 
fingering  tactics,  or,  more  properly,  conveying 
the  property  appertaining  to  his  neighbor,  to 
himself.  A  general  conveyancer,  of  this  de- 
scription, is  as  contemptible  as  dishonest.  That 
man  who  would  enrich  himself  by  repeated 
acts  of  plunder  from  his  various  shipmates, — 
many  of  whom  might  be  in  worse  circumstances 
than  himself,  —  deserves  to  be  punished  with 
the  utmost  severity  and  rigor. 

Every  man  will  allow,  with  myself,  that 
more  honor  (if  there  be  any  attached  to  it) 
is  shown  by  that  man  who  will  expose  himself 
on  the  highway,  obeying  the  dictates  of  his  ne- 
farious and  sinful  caliing,  by  robbing  from  the 
rich  to  bestow  upon  the  poor. 

The  seducer  has  here  ample  opportunities  of 
reflecting  on  the  cruel,  brutal,  and  sinful  con- 
duct he  has  been  guilty  of  in  destroying  forever 
the  peace  of  mind  of  that  helpless  individual 
whom  he  had  so  incessantly  bound  himself,  by 
oaths  and  protestations,  to  cherish  and  protect, 


200  MORE    DEATHS. 

before  she  yielded  to  his  fickle  embraces,  and 
made  him  master  of  her  honor.  The  daily 
scenes  here,  under  his  observation,  will  recall 
to  his  mind  the  scenes  of  more  halcyon  days, 
when  blessed  in  the  society  of  his  unfortunate 
and  distressed  victim,  and  cause  him  to  regret 
their  departure  and  long  for  their  return,  under 
different  ideas  and  more  honorable  principles. 

The  drunkard  I  need  not  comment  upon,  as 
my  readers  have  already  had  my  opinion  on 
the  subject  of  intemperance,  in  the  third  chap- 
ter of  this  book. 

The  unfortunate  exile,  or  wanderer,  it  would 
be  of  no  use  for  me  to  personate,  as  I  am  here 
as  such,  in  propria  persona. 

I  now  return  to  my  history  of  the  cruise,  and 
regret  much  to  observe,  that,  during  our  stay 
in  this  port,  we  lost  several  more  of  the  men  by 
the  dysentery,  and  their  remains  were  conveyed 
on  shore  for  interment.  These  frequent  scenes 
of  death,  and  being  literally  obliged  to  be  an 
unwilling  spectator  of  them,  were  enough  to 
daunt  any  one.  Placed  as  I  am,  I  consider 
my  body,  or  at  least  the  services  exacted  from 
it,  to  belong  to  my  employers.  I  was  going  to 
observe  that  I  could  scarcely  call  my  soul  my 
own  ;  but  there  I  should  be  wrong,  as  that 
would  be  a  catachresis,  —  and  I  hate  and  abom- 


DISAGREEABLE    WORD.  201 

inate  a  cat,  and  every  thing  which  begins  with 
cat.  It  is  singular  that  they  are  all  unpleas- 
ant, unlucky,  or  unsafe;  for  instance,  —  cata- 
combs reminds  you  of  death,  funerals,  and 
mummies;  catalogue,  sale  of  effects,  —  some 
poor  devil  done  up  ;  cataplasm,  a  boil  or  sore 
poulticed  ;  cataract,  sore  eyes  and  devastation  ; 
catarrh,  bad  cold,  head  stuffed,  running  of  the 
glands  ;  catechism,  equally  unpleasant  in  youth 
or  marriage ;  categorical,  argument  which  is 
detestable  ;  caterpillars,  beasts  who  foul  na- 
ture ;  caterwaul,  horrid  variety  of  love  ;  catgut, 
street  music  from  a  hurdy-gurdy ;  catspaio,  at 
sea  in  a  calm,  with  a  prize  in  sight.  As  for 
cats  themselves,  I  cannot  say  too  much  against 
them ;  and  it  is  singular  that  other  meanings 
of  the  single  word  are  equally  disagreeable  ; 
as,  to  cat  the  anchor,  is  a  sign  of  going  to  sea; 
and  that  woful  cat  at  the  gangway,  possessing 
nine  tails,  is  the  worst  cat  of  all. 

Those  of  our  crew  who  were  in  a  state  of 
convalescence,  were  occasionally  permitted  to 
take  a  run  on  shore,  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
cruiting their  health ;  and  several,  who  were 
afflicted  with  the  scurvy,  underwent  the  opera- 
tion of  being  buried  in  the  earth;  up  to  the 
chin,  which  is  supposed  to  be  a  cure  for  that 
disorder. 


202  JOHN    ADAMS    LEAKY. 

A  prescription  of  this  kind  I  do  not  consider 
at  all  desirable,  as  I  should  not  approve  of 
being  buried  up  to  my  neck  in  the  soil,  in 
a  lone  spot,  and,  on  casting  my  eyes  around, 
to  behold  the  very  comfortable  prospect  of  a 
whole  flock  of  turkey  buzzards,  hovering  over 
my  head,  ready  to  pounce  down  on  my  peri- 
cranium. 

Notwithstanding  this  island  abounds  with 
fish,  flesh,  and  fowl,  in  profusion,  the  na- 
tives kill  dogs,  which  are  fattened  for  the  pur- 
pose, the  same  as  we  would  hogs  at  home,  and 
when  cooked,  are  considered  by  them  as  the 
richest  epicurean  dish  they  have.  Having  no 
ovens,  they  cook  their  food  in  holes  in  the 
ground,  lined  with  large  stones,  which  are 
made  hot,  and  then  covered  over  to  retain  the 
heat. 

During  our  stay  in  Honolulu,  we  lost  ten 
more  of  our  crew  with  the  dysentery,  and  their 
remains  were  sent  ashore  from  the  ship,  for 
the  purpose  of  being  interred. 

Our  stay  in  this  port  was  also  procrastinated 
.longer  than  was  at  first  intended,  it  having 
been  discovered  that  the  John  Adams  was 
in  rather  a  leaky  condition.  It  appeared  that, 
after  parting  company  with  us  on  the  last 
passage,  she  had   experienced  another  severe 


WHALE    SHIPS. 


203 


and  heavy  gale  of  wind,  off  the  Bonin  Islands, 
to  which  the  leak  was  attributed,  as  she  had 
labored  much.  After  undergoing  a  thorough 
scrutiny,  the  leak  was  happily  discovered,  and 
the  same  stopped. 

The  principal  arrivals  and  departures  from 
this  port,  during  our  stay,  consisted  of  Ameri- 
can whale  ships,  many  of  whom  had  been  out 
from  the  United  States  upwards  of  two  years, 
and  the  success  attending  their  exertions  was 
appropriate  to  the  length  of  time  they  had  been 
absent.  The  Sandwich  Islands  are  a  general 
rendezvous  for  these  vessels,  which  are  techni- 
cally termed  blubber-hunters,  their  principal 
cruising  ground  being  off  the  Japan  Islands. 
There  were  several  men  joined  our  ship,  who 
had  been  discharged  from  some  of  them  at  this 
place  ;  and,  actuated  by  motives  of  curiosity,  I 
have  frequently  sought  converse  with  some  of 
them,  respecting  the  general  manoeuvres  per- 
formed in  killing  that  enormous  fish,  the  whale; 
from  which  conversations  I  derived  the  infor- 
mation, that  it  was  a  most  dangerous  occupa- 
tion, and  only  fit  for  a  man  who  would  like  to 
be  called  Jonah  the  second. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Let  them  throw  out  their  jeers,  and  cry,  "  spite  of  their  crosses, 

And  forgetful  of  toil,  that  so  hardly  they  bore, 
That  sailors,  at  sea,  earn  their  money  like  horses, 

To  squander  it  idly,  like  asses,  ashore." 

Sea  SoNfi. 

«/* 

Sail  from  Honolulu — A  False  Alarm — A  Death — Cross 
the  Equinoctial  Line — Off  the  Marquesas — Arrive  at 
Otaheile — Description  of  the  same — Inhabitants — Cus- 
toms, Dress,  Manners,  &c. — A  Liberty  Scrape — Dreams 
not  always  realized. 

On  the  4th  of  November  we  once  more  got 
under  way,  accompanied  by  the  John  Adams, 
and  proceeded  onwards  to  our  next  port,  being 
bound  to  Otaheite,  one  of  the  Society  Islands. 
For  the  first  few  days  after  our  departure  we 
were  favored  with  fine  breezes  and  clear,  pleas- 
ant weather,  which,  however,  was  of  but  short 
duration,  as,  from  the  8th  of  the  month,  we 
experienced  nothing  but  squally  weather,  ac- 
companied by  incessant  rains,  for  upwards  of 
a  fortnight,  without  intermission. 

On  the  9th  inst.  at  8,  P.  M.  just  as  the  watch 
had  been  relieved,  and  I  had  turned  into  my 


A    FALSE   ALARM.  205 

hammock  to  pass  away  an  hour  or  two  in  the 
arms  of  the  drowsy  god,  Somnus,  my  attention 
was  aroused  by  a  noise  and  unusual  commotion 
on  the  spar-deck,  and  the  only  sounds  that 
were  intelligible  to  me  was  some  one  singing 
out,  or  rather  roaring  out,  "Hard  at  starboard. " 
This  I  knew  was  intended  for  the  man  at  the 
wheel  to  hear.  Then  another  person  exclaim- 
ed, "The  life-buoy  is  gone,  sir."  The  last 
expression  was  enough  for  me  ;  as  I  immedi- 
ately concluded  some  unlucky  wight  had  fallen 
overboard,  I  jumped  out  of  my  hammock,  or 
dreaming-bag,  nearly  breaking  my  neck  at  the 
time,  as  the  ship  then  fetched  a  heavy  lurch, 
which  threw  me  on  the  most  prominent  fea- 
ture of  my  face,  or,  more  properly,  my  nasal 
organ  ;  and  from  the  violence  of  the  concussion 
between  the  handle  of  my  face  and  the  deck,  I 
at  first  fancied  I  had  entirely  demolished  my 
olfactory  nerves.  However,  I  picked  myself 
up  with  as  much  content  as  the  attendant  cir- 
cumstances would  permit,  and  rushed  on  deck, 
arrayed  in  no  other  garments  than  my  frock, 
which  is  similar  to  a  shirt,  with  the  exception 
of  having  a  blue  front  and  collar.  Here  I  found 
another  consolation  :  it  was  raininsr  in  tor- 
rents  and  blowing  fresh.  However,  deter- 
mined not  to  meet  misfortunes  half  way,  I 
18 


206  PUNISHMENT    OF    AN    OLD   SAILOE. 

proceeded  onwards  to  ascertain  the  cause  of 
the  confusion,  which,  after  all,  I  found  to  arise 
from  our  consort,  the  John  Adams,  coming 
rather  too  close  to  us  to  be  pleasant,  as  she 
was  then  directly  under  our  bows.  By  a  shift 
of  the  helm,  we  cleared  from  her,  at  the  same 
time  expressing  our  wishes  for  her  to  keep  off 
at  a  more  polite  and  respectful  distance.  I  re- 
turned to  my  hammock,  half  drowned  with 
rain,  happy  to  think  my  surmises  were  wrong 
respecting  any  person  falling  overboard,  as  I 
had  at  first  imagined  when  I  heard  that  the 
life-buoy  was  cut  away.  On  the  following 
morning  I  perceived  the  John  Adams,  looking 
as  pert  as  ever,  having,  as  it  appeared,  pre- 
served herself  without  the  assistance  of  a  life- 
buoy. 

On  the  following  day  I  witnessed  a  transac- 
tion, which  imparted  the  deepest  regret  to  my 
feelings,  on  account  of  the  poor  fellow  who 
was  the  sufferer  on  the  occasion.  A  better 
hearted  man  never  broke  the  bread  of  life  ; 
beloved  by  his  shipmates,  and  respected  by  the 
greater  part  of  his  officers ;  one  who  has  been 
in  the  service  for  many  years,  and  was  taken 
prisoner  in  the  Essex.  His  name  is  Antonio 
Sallee,  an  elderly  man,  and,  of  course,  not 
very  strong.     For  the  trivial  offence  of  talking 


PUNISHMENT.  207 

on  the  fore  yard,  to  another  man,  upon  a  point 
of  duty,  he  was  called  down  by  Mr.  Turk,  the 
second  lieutenant,  and  punished,  as  well  as 
abused.  While  the  boatswain's  mate  was  in- 
flicting the  lashes,  the  tears  were  absolutely 
trickling  down  the  old  man's  weather-beaten 
and  furrowed  cheeks  ;  while,  at  the  same  time, 
he  was  abused  by  that  very  "  gentlemanly " 
officer,  who  called  him  "a  good  for  nothing 
son  of  a  b — h."  This  outrageous  conduct  was 
observed  to  a  poor  old  man,  who  had  fought  for 
the  rights  and  liberties  of  the  country,  before 
this  domineering  officer  was  out  of  his  mother's 
leading-strings.  It  is,  in  my  opinion,  a  great 
pity  he  had  not  remained  in  leading-strings 
until  the  present  day,  as  it  would  have  been  the 
cause  of  two  good  things,  —  it  would  have 
saved  many  a  man's  back  a  lash  from  the  in- 
fernal colt,  and  himself  from  those  curses  which 
are  at  present  bestowed  upon  him,  and  with 
which  he  will  descend  to  the  grave. 

It  is  generally  considered  an  injustice  to 
punish  one  man  for  anofher's  fault;  but  the 
rule  is  reversed  in  this  ship.  If  one  man,  sta- 
tioned aloft,  is  guilty  of  a  misdemeanor,  it  is 
not  unfrequent  that  the  whole  body,  amounting 
perhaps  to  forty  or  fifty,  are  called  down  and 
punished  for  one  man's  misdemeanor. 


208  MIDSHIPMEN. 

I  recollect  an  instance  of  this  kind,  on  the 
passage  from  Madeira  to  Rio,  and  which  I  had 
omitted  to  notice.  For  some  trifling  offence, 
committed  by  a  man  stationed  in  the  after- 
guard, on  the  quarter-deck,  this  self-same  Mr. 
Turk,  who  happened  to  be  the  officer  of  the 
watch,  turned  to,  with  a  free  good  will  on  his 
part,  and  whipped  not  only  the  whole  of  the 
after-guard,  but  also  the  mizzen-topmen.  I 
myself  counted  eight  hundred  and  tliirtij-seven 
lashes  before  breakfast.  An  opportunity  like 
this  afforded  the  greatest  pleasure  to  Mr.  Turk, 
and  no  doubt  he  descended  to  his  breakfast  in 
the  ward-room  with  a  good  appetite,  edged 
pretty  keenly  by  the  wonderful  exploit  he  had 
performed,  which  ought  to  be  cried  up  and 
down  every  town  and  city  throughout  the 
States,  for  the  benefit  of  those  voung  middies 
who  expect  to  promote  themselves  in  the  navy. 

By  the  by,  writing  of  young  middies,  I  wish 
to  inform  my  readers  that  we  have  on  board 
two  infants,  in  the  dress  of  midshipmen,  whose 
insulting  conduct  at  times  is  almost  unbeara- 
ble. The  morals  of  the  ship,  under  the  espe- 
cial patronage  of  the  officers,  maybe  judged  of 
when  I  state  that  these  infants,  for  future  pat- 
ronage, are  from  twelve  to  fourteen  years  of 
age,  and  they  will  very  often  walk  up  to  the 


CROSSING    THE    LINE.  209 

seamen,  and  utter,  with  as  much  smartness  as 
their  gentlemanly  elders,  "  You  be  d — d,"  and 
"You  d — d  son  of  a  b — h."  I  can,  at  times, 
but  admire  the  forbearance  of  the  men,  that 
the}r  do  not  often  put  them  across  their  knee, 
and  correct  them. 

Our  crew,  during  this  passage,  began  to  re- 
cover from  the  effects  of  the  scurvy  and  dys- 
entery, which  had  held  its  influence  so  long  in 
the  ship,  and  by  which  we  had  lost  so  many 
men. 

On  the  16th  November,  we,  however,  lost 
another  of  our  crew,  Henry  Franks,  sergeant 
of  marines,  who  had  been  suffering  a  long  time 
with  the  liver  complaint,  and  whose  remains 
were  consigned  to  the  deep,  the  accustomed 
form  of  prayer  being  read  over  them.  This 
individual  was  sincerely  regretted  by  many,  as 
he  had  gained  their  good  opinion  by  the  affa- 
bility of  his  disposition  and  general  uniformity 
of  manners  to  all  around  him  ;  but  with  all 
these  qualifications,  he  has  gone  down  to  the 
valley  of  the  shadow  of  death. 

On  the  27th  inst.  we  crossed  the  equinoctial 
line  to  the  southward,  in  longitude  140°  22' 
west,  and  on  the  30th,  at  daylight,  we  dis- 
covered land,  proving  to  be  the  Marquesas. 
At  10,  A.  M.  the  Island  of  Fattuuhu  bore  per 
18* 


210  ARRIVE    AT    OTAHEITE. 

compass,  NE.  by  E.  Mattauity  E.  half  S.,  and 
the  centre  of  the  Island  of  Nukahiva  E.  half  S. 

The  Marquesas  Islands  are  a  group  situated 
in  the  South  Pacific  ocean,  of  which  the  most 
considerable  are  St.  Christina,  St.  Pedro 
and  St.  Dominica,  the  latter  being  considered 
the  largest.  It  is  sixteen  leagues  in  circuit. 
The  inhabitants,  as  far  as  regards  their  lan- 
guage, manners  and  clothing,  with  the  vegeta- 
ble productions,  are  nearly  the  same  as  those 
of  the  Society  Islands.  These  islands  were  first 
discovered  by  Quiros,  the  Spanish  navigator, 
in  the  year  1595,  but  their  situation  was  better 
ascertained  by  Capt.  Cook,  in  1794. 

At  4,  P.  M.  on  the  4th  December,  we  made 
the  Island  of  Toicka,  bearing,  per  compass,  at 
the  northern  end,  NNW.  half  W.  and  on  the 
following  morning,  at  10,  A.  M.  made  another 
island,  named  Elizabeth  Island,  bearing  S.  by 
E.  as  also  a  variety  of  small  islands,  as  seen  by 
Rubrick.  We  also  discovered  the  Island  of 
Otaheite,  on  the  larboard  bow  and  ahead.  At 
11,  A.  M.  Point  Venus  bore,  per  compass,  SW. 
half  W.  We  came  to  an  anchor  in  the  harbor  of 
Papeote,  at  4,  P.  M.  and  on  the  following 
morning  the  John  Adams  arrived,  and  also 
came  to  anchor.  We  were  visited  by  the 
American,  British,  and  French    consuls,  who 


NUMBER    OF  INHABITANTS.  211 

were  each   and  severally  saluted,  as  usual,  on 
their  arrival  on  board. 

The  Island  of  Otaheite  was  discovered  by 
Capt.  Wallis,  in  the  Dolphin,  belonging  to  the 
British  government,  on  the  19th  June,  17G7. 
It  is  situated  in  17°  15'  south  latitude,  and 
149°  30'  west  longitude,  and  consists  of  two 
peninsulas,  of  a  somewhat  circular  form,  joined 
by  an  isthmus,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  reef  of 
coral  rocks,  which  form  several  excellent  bays 
and  harbors,  where  there  is  room  and  depth  of 
water  for  almost  any  number  of  the  largest 
ships. 

The  face  of  the  country  is  very  extraordi- 
nary ;  for  a  border  of  low  land  almost  entirely 
surrounds  each  peninsula,  and  behind  this  bor- 
der the  land  rises  in  ridges,  that  run  up  into 
the  middle  of  these  divisions,  and  these  form 
mountains  that  may  be  seen  at  sixty  leagues 
distance. 

The  soil,  except  upon  the  very  tops  of  the 
ridges,  is  remarkably  rich  and  fertile,  watered 
by  a  great  number  of  rivulets,  and  covered  with 
fruit  trees  of  various  kinds,  forming  the  most 
delightful  groves. 

Some  parts  of  the  Island  of  Otaheite  are 
very  populous.  The  total  number  of  inhab- 
itants upon  the  island  is  estimated  at  205,000. 


212  MANNERS    AND  CUSTOMS. 

They  are  of  a  clear  olive  complexion  ;  the 
men  tall,  strong,  well  built,  and  finely  shaped  ; 
the  women  are  of  an  inferior  size,  but  hand- 
some and  very  amorous,  being  regular  devotees 
at  the  shrine  of  Cupid.  The  clothing  of  the 
natives  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Sandwich 
Islanders,  and  the  greatest  part  of  their  food 
consists  of  cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  bread-fruit, 
plantains,  and  a  great  variety  of  other  fruits. 

Their  houses — that  is,  those  of  the  middling 
size  —  are  of  an  oblong  square,  about  twenty- 
four  feet  long  and  eleven  wide,  with  a  shelving 
roof,  supported  on  three  rows  of  posts,  parallel 
to  each  other,  one  row  on  each  side  and  one  in 
the  middle.  The  utmost  height  within  is  about 
nine  feet,  and  the  eaves  on  each  side  reach  to 
within  about  three  feet  and  a  half  from  the 
ground.  All  the  rest  is  open,  no  part  being 
enclosed  with  a  wall.  The  roof  is  thatched 
with  palm-leaves,  and  the  floor  covered  some 
inches  deep  with  soft  hay,  over  which  they  lay 
mats,  upon  which  they  sit  in  the  day  and  sleep 
in  the  night.  They  have  but  few  tools  among 
them  made  of  metal,  as  they  mostly  use  those 
made  of  stone,  or  some  kind  of  bone.  The 
inhabitants  of  Otaheite  are  remarkable  for 
their  cleanliness ;  for  both  men  and  women 
constantly  wash  their  bodies  in  running  water 


TATTOOING RELIGION.  213 

three  times  a  clay.  Their  language  is  soft  and 
melodious,  and  abounds  with  vowels.  The 
only  wild  animals  are  tropical  birds,  paroquets, 
pigeons,  ducks,  and  a  few  other  birds,  rats, 
and  a  very  few  serpents.  The  sea,  however, 
supplies  the  inhabitants  with  a  very  great  va- 
riety of  the  most  excellent  fish. 

The  natives  have  the  habit  of  discoloring  the 
skin,  by  pricking  it  with  a  small  instrument, 
the  teeth  of  which  are  dipped  into  a  mixture  of 
lampblack,  or  something  like  it.  This  opera- 
tion is  called  tattooing,  and  is  performed  on  the 
youth  of  both  sexes,  when  they  are  about 
twelve  or  fourteen  years  of  age,  on  several 
parts  of  the  body  and  in  various  figures.  They 
are  very  dexterous  in  making  wicker-work; 
their  baskets  are  of  a  thousand  different  pat- 
terns, and  many  of  them  exceedingly  neat. 
Their  religion  consists  in  believing  in  one 
supreme  Deity,  and  the  existence  of  the  soul  in 
a  separate  state,  where  there  are  two  situations, 
of  different  degrees  of  happiness.  In  former 
times  their  weapons  consisted  of  slings,  (which 
even  to  the  present  day  they  can  use  with  the 
greatest  dexterity,)  and  clubs,  about  six  or  seven 
feet  long,  made  of  a  heavy  hard  wood. 

Part  of  the  ship's  company,  during  our  stay 
here,    were    indulged    with    the    privilege    of 


214  ON    LIBERTY. 

twenty-four  hours'  liberty,  to  have  a  run  on 
shore,  and  went  on  shore,  a  certain  number 
at  a  time.  On  the  return  of  the  first  draft  to 
the  ship,  after  the  expiration  of  that  time, 
another  complement  went  for  the  same  period. 
But,  in  consequence  of  some  slight  disturbance 
taking  place  among  some  of  them,  who  had 
been  on  a  particular  visit  to  their  old  friend 
and  acquaintance,  the  god  Bacchus,  and  had 
partaken  rather  too  deeply  of  his  strong  liba- 
tions, a  veto  was  put  on  all  further  liberty 
being  allowed.  On  the  night  of  the  disturb- 
ance,  at  about  nine,  P.  M.  all  the  boats  were 
called  away,  manned,  and,  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  various  officers,  pulled  away  for 
the  shore,  with  an  express  and  implicit  order 
to  bring  off  all  our  men  on  board,  who  were  on 
liberty.  Now  commenced  on  shore  a  scene  of 
the  most  ludicrous  merriment.  One  man  was 
discovered  under  the  lee  of  a  bush,  with  an  old 
basket  lugged  over  his  ears  by  way  of  a  night- 
cap, most  musically  snoring  away  all  his  trou- 
bles and  cares  in  the  arms  of  the  drowsy  god. 
He  was  awoke  and  sent  on  board.  Another 
was  laying  on  his  beam  ends  ;  while  a  third, 
who  had  walked  out  for  the  purpose  of  enjoy- 
ing his  own  company,  was  also  despatched  off. 
Search  was   made  in  every  house  for  the  Co- 


INTERRUPTED    BLISS.  215 

lumbia's  lads,  and  a  particular  friend  of  mine 
was  roused  out  of  bed,  and  also  sent  on  board. 
On  asking  him,  on  the  following  morning,  the 
reason  why  he  had  not  staid  until  the  expira- 
tion of  the  time  allowed  him,  he  gave  me  the 
following  account  : 

"  I  had  retired  to  rest  in  a  house  not  far 
from  the  beach,  blessed  with  the  cheering  and 
affectionate  smiles  of  as  pretty  a  lass  as  ever 
was  formed  in  nature's  mould ;  and  thought 
myself,  at  this  moment,  the  happiest  of  the 
happy,  and  did  not  envy  the  mightiest  poten- 
tate on  the  face  of  the  earth,  in  any  of  his  high- 
born enjoyments. 

"  I  had  been,"  he  says,  "  fanned  to  sleep  by 
the  affectionate  hands  of  this  sylph  of  my 
affections,  and  fell  into  a  dream,  wherein  I 
fancied  myself  walking  in  the  Elysian  fields, 
attended  by  this  lovely  partner  of  my  previous 
earthly  enjoyments.  All  at  once  I  was  aroused 
from  this  my  visionary  slumber  by  a  violent 
shaking,  and  a  grim  visage,  poking  its  ugly 
mug  behind  the  curtains,  exclaiming,  'Yo,  ho, 
shipmate,  heave  an  end  and  save  tide  !  bear  a 
hand,  and  slip  on  your  dunnage,  to  go  on 
board;  for  'tis  a  positive  order.'  On  asking 
this  unwelcome  intruder  what  was  the  matter, 
(who,  by  the  by,  was  one  of  my  shipmates,  and 


216  INTERRUPTED    BLISS. 

who,  at  that  moment,  I  heartily  wished  at  the 
devil,)  he  informed  me  that  there  was  the  very 
devil  to  pay  on  shore,  and  no  pitch  hot,  and 
that  I  must  go  on  board.  Knowing  that  I  was 
no  accessory  in  any  disturbance  on  the  one 
part,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  unwilling  to  leave 
my  present  scene  of  happiness,  which  I  knew 
would  be  but  temporary,  I  remonstrated  with 
my  shipmate  on  this  unreasonable  request.  He 
looked  me  full  in  the  face  in  reply,  and  says, 
1  Well,  you  can  do  as  you  like.  Let  every  tub 
stand  on  its  own  bottom,  I  say,  and  every  man 
steer  by  his  own  compass  ;  but,  depend  upon 
it,  if  you  don't  go,  as  it  is  a  positive  order  from 
head-quarters,  you  will  have  slops  served  out  to 
you,  which  you  will  not  know  the  price  of.' 

"  On  consideration,  I  thought  it  most  advisa- 
ble to  follow  the  counsel  of  my  uncouth  moni- 
tor, and,  after  taking  leave  of  my  dearly  be- 
loved Sposa,  I  was  obliged  to  change  my 
lodgings  from  a  scene  of  earthly  felicity  to 
my  old  quarters  and  my  canvass  dreaming- 
bag." 

He  finished  this  description  of  his  night's 
adventure  to  me,  at  which  I  could  but  smile? 
and  think  of  the  mutability  of  all  human 
events. 


ARRIVAL    AT    VALPARAISO.  217 

The  evening  previous  to  our  departure  from 
Otaheite,  the  queen  arrived  from  another  part 
of  the  island,  where  she  had  been  for  some 
time,  and  given  birth  to  a  son,  to  the  great 
joy  of  her  loving  Renackers.  Our  com- 
modore waited  upon  her  majesty ;  but,  in  con- 
sequence of  our  ship  being  on  the  point  of 
sailing,  we  were  not  honored  by  a  visit  from 
her. 

On  the  22d  of  December,  we  unmoored 
ship,  and  on  the  following  day  we  bade  fare- 
well to  Papeote  harbor,  its  lofty  hills,  and 
shady  groves,  with  their  spirit-bewitching  en- 
chantments, and  directed  our  course  towards 
Valparaiso.  Nothing  of  particular  moment 
occurred  during  the  passage,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  heavy  rains.  We  had  now  winged 
our  way  round  the  world,  crossing  the  same 
meridian  as  Norfolk,  in  Virginia,  is  situated 
upon.  On  the  26th  inst.  Adam  Waters  re- 
ceived twenty-four  lashes  with  the  cats,  not 
having  been  previously  tried,  and  found  guilty 
by  court-martial. 

We  arrived  at  Valparaiso  on  the  23d  of 
January,  1840.  The  importance  of  this  har- 
bor has  long  been  known.  In  stormy  weather, 
with  a  north  wind,  the  sea  rolls  in  with  great 
violence ;  and  then  the  anchorage  is  not  only 
19 


218  SANTIAGO — CHILI. 

unpleasant,  but  exceedingly  dangerous.  Many 
vessels  and  some  lives,  have  been  lost  at  such 
times.  In  this  town  is  centered  nearlv  the 
whole  foreign  commerce  of  Chili.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  exceedingly  courteous  and  obliging  to 
strangers.  The  town  stands  at  the  bottom  of  a 
steep  hill,  and  its  population  is  estimated  at 
20,000,  including  the  suburbs  on  the  high 
ground  above. 

Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chili,  is  situated 
about  ninety  miles  from  the  coast,  and  is 
bounded  on  one  side  by  a  hill,  and  on  the  other 
by  a  large  plain.  It  is  the  centre  of  all  the 
internal  traffic  of  the  country,  and  has  40,000 
inhabitants.  Its  streets  are  wide  and  well 
paved,  and  the  public  buildings  are  large  and 
handsome.  It  is  well  stored  with  every  species 
of  merchandise. 

Chili  has  luxuriant  pastures,  the  grass  of 
which  in  many  parts  is  so  tall  as  to  hide  cattle, 
of  which  there  are  numerous  herds.  Grain, 
cotton,  sugar,  "oil,  wine,  and  fruits,  are  pro- 
duced in  abundance.  Among  the  fruits  are 
apples  and  peaches,  of  extraordinary  size, 
some  of  the  latter  weighing  sixteen  ounces. 

The  cedars  of  the  Andes  mountain  rival 
those  of  Lebanon,  and  the  fruits  and  vegeta- 
bles   are   of   the   choicest    description.       The 


DYSENTERY.  219 

myrtle  attains  the  height  of  forty  or  fifty  feet4 
and  the  olive  equals  the  largest  trees  in  our 
forests. 

The  top  of  the  Andes  mountains  are  cov- 
ered With  perpetual  snow,  but  on  the  coast 
it  never  falls.  It  seldom,  and  in  some  places 
it  is  said  never,  rains ;  dews,  however,  are 
abundant. 

The  southern  part  of  Chili,  is  occupied  by 
the  Araucanian  Indians, — a  tribe,  brave,  war- 
like, and  fond  of  liberty,  whom  the  Spaniards, 
for  three  centuries,  vainly  tried  to  subdue. 
Chili,  formerly  a  Spanish  province,  declared 
itself  independent  in  1818,  and  has  recently 
formed  a  republican  government. 

This  country  was  first  discovered  by  Diego 
Almagro,  a  Spaniard,  in  1525.  He  passed  the 
Andes  from  Peru,  and  though  he  had  lost  a 
great  part  of  his  soldiers,  who  attended  him  in 
this  expedition,  he  was  received  with  great 
submission  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country, 
who  had  formerly  been  under  the  dominion  of 
the  Peruvians. 

The  dysentery,  which  had  caused  such  cruel 
ravages  and  death,  amongst  our  crew,  by  this 
time  had  ceased  its  havoc,  as  all  the  sick 
had  now  nearly  recovered  from  its  effects. 
One  thing  respecting  this  terrible  disease  par- 


220  PUNISHMENT. 

ticularly  attracted  my  attention,  which  was, 
those  men  who  had  been  afflicted  with  it,  and 
had  recovered  again,  looked  much  heartier  in 
personal  appearance,  than  those  who  had  never 
been  sufferers  fromit. 

On  the  14th  inst.  the  captain  of  the  Ameri- 
can ship  Emily  Taylor,  of  Boston,  lying  in 
this  harbor,  sent  to  Commodore  Read,  request- 
ing his  assistance.  Some  of  his  men  had  re- 
fused to  do  their  duty,  in  consequence  of  a 
misunderstanding.  The  request  was  imme- 
diately acceded  to,  the  commodore  sending  on 
board  the  vessel  our  sailing-master,  master-at- 
arms,  and  a  boatswain's  mate. 

On  their  arrival  on  board,  the  disaffected 
men  were  asked  if  they  would  return  to  their 
duty.  They  replied  in  the  negative  ;  upon 
which  they  were  severely  whipped  on  their 
bare  backs,  two  with  eighteen,  and  one  with 
twenty-four  lashes  ;  not  with  the  cats,  the 
usual  instrument  of  torture,  but  with  the  colt, 
a  piece  of  hard  twisted  rope,  commonly  called 
nine  thread,  which  absolutely  cut  the  flesh  to 
the  bone. 

I  saw  the  backs  of  those  poor  men  after- 
wards, as  they  joined  the  frigate  for  the  pur- 
pose of  getting  to  the  United  States.  I  abso- 
lutely turned  away  with  pity  and  disgust,  as  I 


MIDNIGHT    BURIAL.  221 

pitied  the  poor  suffering  men,  and  was  dis- 
gusted with  the  commodore,  whom  I  was  for  a 
time  compelled  to  serve  and  obey. 

During  our  stay,  we  lost  one  of  our  crew 
only,  by  consumption.  He  was  interred  on 
shore  at  the  still  hour  of  midnight,  when  all 
nature  was  hushed  in  silence,  according  to  the 
customs  of  the  country.  A  funeral  scene,  at 
this  gloomy  hour,  cannot  fail  to  impress  the 
mind  with  more  than  religious  awe,  when  you 
consider  that  you  are  standing  on  that  place, 
sanctified  by  the  ashes  of  the  dead,  as  well  as 
by  the  prayers  of  the  living ;  the  place  that 
had  so  often  listened  in  its  solemn  stillness  to 
the  vow  that  bound  heart  to  heart ;  the  place 
where  the  first  born  has  been  dedicated  to  the 
Deity,  and  which  is  even  now  echoing  the  sobs 
of  the  funeral  train  ; — a  place  hallowed  by  the 
most  joyous,  and  the  saddest  of  all  human 
emotions,  as  well  as  by  all  holy  rites,  and 
seeming  itself  to  breathe  a  sacramental  power. 
I  sav  these  things  find  an  answer  in  the  inmost 
depths  of  the  heart. 

On  the  17th  of  February,  we  took  our  de- 
parture from  this  port,  for  Callao,  in  Peru,  at 
which  place  we  arrived  on  the  28th  inst.  at  the 
hour  of  midnight,  after  a  pleasant  passage  of 
eleven  days  from  Valparaiso.  This  harbor 
19* 


222  ACCOUNT    OF    CALLAO. 

was  pretty  full  of  shipping,  principally  mer- 
chantmen and  coasters.  The  only  men  of 
war,  besides  our  own  ship,  being  H.  B.  M. 
frigate  President,  and  the  United  States  schoon- 
er Shark.  The  United  States  frigate  Consti- 
tution had  sailed  a  few  days  previously,  upon  a 
cruise,  which  I  am  led  to  believe  was  a  source 
of  much  disappointment  to  many  of  our  crew, 
as  they  wished  to  have  benefited  their  constitu- 
tion by  being  shifted  to  the  Constitution,  as 
she  was  stationed  on  this  particularly  healthy 
coast. 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  we  were 
saluted  by  the  frigate  President,  which  was  an- 
swered by  us.  At  meridian,  we  hoisted  the 
Peruvian  colors  at  the  fore,  and  saluted  the 
town  with  twenty-one  guns.  The  town  and 
harbor  of  Callao  is  well  fortified,  and  is  the 
principal  port  on  this  coast.  In  the  year,  1747, 
this  place  was  entirely  demolished  by  the 
dreadful  visitation  of  an  earthquake,  which  at 
the  same  time  laid  three  fourths  of  the  city  of 
Lima  in  ruins.  Never  was  any  destruction 
more  terrible  or  complete,  not  more  than  one 
of  three  thousand  inhabitants  being  left  to  re- 
cord the  dreadful  calamity,  and  he  by  a  provi- 
dence the  most  singular  and  extraordinary  im- 
aginable.    This  man,  who   happened  to  be  on 


ACCOUNT    OF    LIMA.  223 

the  fort  which  overlooked  the  harbor,  perceived 
the  inhabitants  running  from  their  houses,  in 
the  utmost  terror  and  confusion.  The  sea,  as 
usual  on  such  occasions,  receding  to  a  consid- 
erable distance,  returned  in  mountainous  waves, 
and  buried  the  inhabitants  forever  in  its  bosom. 
Immediately  all  was  silent ;  but  the  same 
waves  which  destroyed  the  town,  drove  a  little 
boat  to  the  place  where  the  man  stood,  into 
which  he  threw  himself,  and  was  saved.  The 
manners  of  the  people  in  this  country  do  not 
remarkably  differ  from  those  of  the  whole 
Spanish  dominions.  Pride  and  laziness  are 
the  two  predominant  passions.  The  Creoles, 
and  all  the  other  descendants  of  the  Spaniards, 
are  guilty  of  many  mean  and  pilfering  vices, 
which  a  true-born  Castilian  could  not  think  of 
but  with  detestation. 

The  city  of  Lima,  the  capital  of  Peru,  is 
situated  in  the  middle  of  a  spacious  and  de- 
lightful valley,  distance  about  nine  miles  from 
Callao.  This  spot  was  fixed  upon  by  the 
famous  Pizarro,  as  the  most  proper  for  a  city, 
which  he  expected  would  preserve  his  memory. 
It  is  so  well  supplied  with  water,  that  each  of 
the  inhabitants,  like  those  of  London,  can 
command  a  stream  for  his  own  use.  There 
are  many  magnificent  structures  in  this  city, 


224  ACCOUNT'"  OF  PERU. 

particularly  churches,  though  the  houses  in 
general  are  built  of  slight  materials,  the  equality 
of  climate  and  want  of  rain  rendering  stone 
houses  unnecessary. 

The  city  extends  in  length  upwards  of  two 
miles,  and  in  breadth  one  and  a  half.  It  con- 
tains about  54,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  the 
whites  amount  to  a  sixth  part.  One  remarka- 
ble fact  is  sufficient  to  demonstrate  the  ancient 
wealth  of  this  city.  When  the  viceroy,  the 
Duke  de  la  Pallida,  made  his  entry  into  Lima,  in 
the  year  16S2,  the  inhabitants,  to  do  him  honor, 
caused  the  streets  to  be  paved  with  ingots  of 
silver,  to  the  amount  of  seventeen  millions 
sterling,  while  the  churches  and  other  public 
buildings  were  decorated  inside  with  gold, 
silver,  and  precious  stones,  the  walls  being 
completely  loaded  with  those  ornaments. 

There  are  many  gold  mines  in  the  northern 
parts  of  Peru,  not  far  from  Lima.  Silver,  too, 
is  found  in  great  abundance  in  various  prov- 
inces :  the  old  mines  are  frequently  exhausted, 
but  new  ones  are  daily  opened.  The  towns 
are  shifted  with  the  mines. 

This  country  produces  fruits  peculiar  to  the 
climate,  and  most  of  those  of  Europe.  A 
principal  article  in  the  produce  and  commerce 
of  this  country,  is  the  Peruvian  bark, — an  arti- 


ANIMALS    OF    PERU.  225 

cle  well  known,  especially  for  its  medicinal 
uses.  The  tree  which  produces  this  invaluable 
drug  grows  principally  in  the  mountainous  parts 
of  Peru.  The  best  bark  is  always  produced 
in  the  high  and  rocky  grounds.  The  tree 
which  bears  it  is  about  the  size  of  a  cherry 
tree,  and  produces  a  kind  of  fruit  resembling 
the  almond  ;  but  it  is  only  the  bark  which  has 
those  excellent  qualities,  that  render  it  so  use- 
ful in  intermittent  fevers,  and  other  disorders, 
to  which  daily  experience  extends  the  applica- 
tion of  it. 

The  principal  animals  peculiar  to  Peru  are 
the  lama,  the  vicunna,  and  the  guanaco.  The 
lama  has  a  small  head,  resembling  both  that 
of  the  horse  and  the  sheep.  It  is  about  the 
size  of  a  stag;  its  upper  lip  is  cleft  like  the 
hare,  through  which,  when  enraged,  it  spits  a 
kind  of  venomous  juice,  which  inflames  the 
part  it  falls  upon.  The  flesh  of  the  lama  is  a 
pleasant  and  wholesome  food ;  and  the  animal 
is  not  only  useful  in  affording  a  fine  kind  of 
wool  and  food,  but  also  as  a  beast  of  burden. 
It  can  endure  amazing  fatigue,  and  will  travel 
over  the  steepest  mountains  with  a  load  of 
sixty  or  seventy  pounds.  It  feeds  very  spar- 
ingly, and  never  drinks.  The  vicunna  is  smaller 
and  swifter  than  the  lama,  and  produces  wool 


226  ARRIVE    AT   RIO    JANEIRO. 

still  finer  in  quality.  The  guanaco  is  much 
larger  than  the  lama,  its  wool  is  long:  and 
harsh,  but  in  shape  they  are  nearly  alike. 

On  the  9th  of  March  we  weighed,  and  left 
Callao,  bound  to  Rio  Janeiro.  This  morning, 
John  Rhineman  received  eighteen  lashes,  con- 
trary to  the  rules  of  the  service,  he  not  having 
been  tried  by  a  court-martial. 

On  the  19th  of  April,  we  rounded  Cape 
Horn,  in  latitude  56°  56'  north,  and  longitude 
68°  25'  west.  The  weather  at  this  time  being 
extremely  cold  and  disagreeable,  accompanied 
with  heavy  squalls  of  hail,  wind,  and  frequently 
much  snow.  Thermometer  being-  in  air  39° 
and  water  41°,  which  was  the  lowest  tempera- 
ture experienced  during  the  cruise. 

On  the  22d  inst.  we  spoke  a  Brazilian  brig 
from  Monte  de  Video,  bound  to  Pernambuco  ; 
and  on  the  24th  inst.  we  once  more  came  to 
an  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Rio  Janeiro.  We 
found  here,  as  usual,  various  men  of  war,  in- 
cluding the  United  States  ship  Lexington,  who 
saluted  us  according  to  custom.  On  the  26th, 
we  were  joined  by  the  United  States  ships  John 
Adams  and  Falmouth,  the  latter  ship  saluting 
our  commodore's  flag.  On  the  2d  of  May,  we 
had  to  pay  the  same  compliment  to  the  flag  of 
Commodore   George    C.  Ridgely,   which  was 


ARRIVE    AT    CHARLESTOWN.  227 

hoisted  on  board  the  United  States  ship  Deca- 
tur, that  ship  arriving  from  the  United  States 
on  that  day. 

On  the  6th  of  May  we  got  under  way  from 
Rio,  and  proceeded  to  sea,  bound  home  ;  each 
heart  beating  high  with  the  expectation  of  once 
more  beholding  his  family  and  friends.  On 
the  23d  inst.  we  crossed  the  equinoctial  line,  iii 
longitude  36°  29'  west,  and  on  the  13th  of  June 
we  came  to  an  anchor  off  Boston  lighthouse. 
On  the  16th,  made  fast  alongside  the  wharf,  in 
the  navy  yard  at  Charlestown,  Mass.  after  an 
absence  of  two  years,  one  month,  and  ten  days, 
during  which  time  we  circumnavigated  the 
globe. 

And  now,  my  readers,  being  once  more  at 
home,  I  have  to  conclude  this  sketch,  trusting 
this,  my  humble  attempt  for  your  amusement 
or  information,  may  succeed  in  giving  you  sat- 
isfaction. Wishing  you  all  prosperity  and  hap- 
piness, may  you  ever  steer  through  the  wide 
and  expansive  ocean  of  life  with  favorable 
gales,  and  at  the  last  cast  your  anchor  in  the 
port  of  heaven,  where  youi  commander  will 
be  the  supreme  Creator  of  all,  and  the  shrill 
pipe  of  the  boatswain's  mates,  which  have  so 
often  called  us  to  our  earthly  duties,  be  changed 
to  the  trumpets  resounding  the  praises  of  the 


228  ADIEU    TO    SHIPMATES. 

Most  High, —  of  that  divine  God,  who  has 
afforded  us  his  sacred  protection  through  life's 
checkered  paths.  And  though  we  have  to 
strike  our  colors  to  death  when  called  upon,  I 
trust  it  will  be  only  to  ensure  us  a  safe  anchor- 
age, and  good  holding  ground. 

Adieu,  my  shipmates  ;  God  bless  you  all ! 


THE  LAST  DAYS  OF  MUCKIE. 

WRITTEN  ON  BOARD  THE   COLTBIBIA,  BY   CORPORAL  S.  PENROSE. 

The  bright  rays  of  the  sun  had  illumined  the  morning, 
As  lightly  they  glanced  o'er  the  waves  of  the  seas; 

The  dew-drops  of  heaven  so  gently  were  falling, 
They  vanished  away  in  the  sweet-scented  breeze. 

When  Columbia's  dark  form  o'er  the  ocean  appeared, 
Her  yards  neatly  squared,  and  her  canvass  snug  furled, 

"While  streaming  aloft  that  proud  flag  was  upraised  — 
The  star-spangled  banner  —  defying  the  world. 

What  means  that  proud  vessel,  with  aspect  so  bold  ; 

Why  lies  she  so  silent  in  Muckie's  dark  bay; 
While  near  her  another  her  flag  doth  unfold, 

With  her  dark  row  of  guns,  all  in  fearful  display  1 

The  tale  is  soon  told:  the  proud  bird  of  Columbia 

In  majesty  sits  on  her  throne  upon  high  ; 
While  nothing  beneath,  in  the  seas  or  around  her, 

Escapes  the  quick  glance  of  her  keen-searching  eye. 

As  over  Sumatra's  light  green  shady  woods 

Her  bright-rolling  eye  she  in  watchfulness  turns, 

She  sees  the  dark  Malay,  his  hands  steeped  in  blood, 
The  red  streaming  blood  of  her  favorite  sons. 

20 


230  LAST    DAYS    OF    MUCKIE. 

Inflamed  were  her  eyes  —  red  with  anger  they  roll ; 

Revenge,  quick  revenge,  was  her  deep-uttered  cry : 
The  true  sons  of  freedom  obey  her  loud  call, 

And  vow  by  their  freedom  the  Malay  must  die. 

But  hark  !  that  bold  vessel's  loud  thunder  is  breaking ; 

The  black  clouds  of  smoke  in  dense  columns  arise  : 
Dost  thou  hear,  fated  Muckie  ?— thy  death- knell  'tis  speak- 
ing! 

Receive  thy  dread  sentence  —  it  comes  from  the  skies. 

O,  never  again,  in  thy  sweet-scented  woods, 
Shall  thy  flocks  and  thy  herds  for  a  shelter  retreat : 

But  thy  mouldering  ruins,  thy  desolate  groves, 
Shall  proclaim  to  the  world  that  revenge  is  still  sweet. 

Then  beware  thee,  dark  Malay,  should  the  eagle  e'er  see 
thee 

Raise  thy  bloody  hands  'gainst  her  favorite  sons) 
Remember  lost  Muckie,  her  fate  sad  and  dreary; 

For  sooner  or  later  thy  judgment  shall  come. 


ABSTRACT 

OP   THE   CRUISE  OP  THE 
UNITED  STATES  FRIGATE  COLUMBIA. 


CD 

3 

+3 
N 

Q 

"3 

3 
O 

Q 

04 

71 

DQ 

a 

3 

> 

H 

< 

O 

— 

Cm 

^ 

•■> 

-_> 

EfcH 

(d 

z 

o 

re 

C 

o 

JS 

CO 

•4-d 

s 

o 

ed 

£ 

>> 

es 

9 

rf 

•  »"* 

zi 

OJ 

— • 

Q 

— 

Q 

<— ^ 

<i 

^. 

1838. 

May  6 

Hampton  Roads 

21 

3233 

May  27 

Madeira 

6 

June  2 

Madeira 

38 

4310 

July  10 

Rio 

20 

July  30 

Rio 

79 

10388 

Oct.  17 

Muscat 

9 

Oct.  26 

Muscat 

6 

804 

Nov.  1 

Bombay 

10 

Nov.  11 

Bombay 

4 

297 

Nov.  15 

Goa 

1 

Nov.  16 

Goa 

10 

673 

Nov.  26 

Columbo 

6 

Dec.  2 

Columbo 

20 

1424 

Dec.  22 

Quallah  Battoo 

5 

Dec.  27 

Quallah  Battoo 

3 

26 

Dec.  30 

Muckie 

4 

1839. 

Jan.  3 

Muckie 

1 

o 

20 

Jan.  3 

Soosoo 

11 

Jan.  14 

Soosoo 

11 

1056 

Jan.  25 

Penang 

1 

Jan.  26 

Penang 

8 

536 

Feb.  3 

Singapore 

53 

March  28 

Singapore 

30 

2121 

April  27 

Macao 

49 

June  15 

Macao 

i 

5 

30 

June  15 

Toonkoo  Bay 

52 

Aug.  6 

Toonkoo  Bay 

65 

7250 

Oct.  10 

Oahu 

25 

Nov.  4 

Oahu 

32 

3942 

Dec.  6 

Tahiti 

16 

Dec.  22 

Tahiti 

32 

5362 

1840. 

184:0. 

Jan. 23 

Valparaiso 

25 

Feb.  17 

Valparaiso 

11 

1274 

Feb.  28 

Callao 

8 

March  8 

Callao 

47 

6196 

April  24 

Rio 

12 

May  6 

Rio 

41 

5854 

June  16 

Boston 

, 

•Aggregate. 

Number  of  Ports 18 

Davs  at  Sea 459 

Days  in  Port 313 

Total  Distance  run 54796  knots. 


U.    S.   VESSELS. 


No.     Ship's  Name. 

1  Virginia 

2  United  States 

3  Constitution 

4  Guerriere 

5  Java 

6  Columbus 

7  Congress 

8  Macedonia 

9  Constellation 

10  Ohio 

11  Franklin 

12  Independence 

13  John  Adams 

14  Levant 

15  Peacock 

16  Delaware 

17  North  Carolina 

18  Erie 

19  Ontarip 

20  Cyane 

21  Enterprise 

22  Brandy  wine 

23  Boston 

24  Columbia 

25  Hudson 

26  Porpoise 

27  Dolphin 

28  Potomac 


No.  Ship's  Name. 

29  Shark 

30  Grampus 

31  Lexington 

32  Washington 

33  Vincennes 

34  Warren 

35  Natchez 

36  Pennsylvania 

37  New  York 

38  Vermont 

39  Alabama 

40  Santee 

41  Cumberland 

42  Sabine 

43  Savannah 

44  Raritan 

45  St.  Lawrence 

46  St.  Louis 

47  Vandalia 

48  Fairfield 

49  Falmouth 

50  Concord 

51  Experiment 

52  Boxer 

53  Pioneer 

54  Consort 

55  Relief 

56  Pilot 


RARE  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 

Travel 

G440 

.M98 


..:. 


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